Monthly Archives: August 2012

Summer’s End?

It’s official the wettest summer for a hundred years!  Even today a very wet morning in the area.

But just returned from a beautiful Thursday evening’s climbing in Cardwell Quarry. Lovely sunny evening, sunset and a beautiful new moon.

Re-climbed half a dozen quality routes with an old mate. Much cooler. Six others enjoying the evening.

Cardwell Quarry.

[For an important update please refer to July post —-

https://bowlandclimber.wordpress.com/2013/07/25/cardwell-quarry-update/]

Spent a couple of days cleaning up this crag. It gets plenty of visits but nobody pulls out the odd fern.  With all the wet weather the right hand corner is dripping but the rest of the crag is dry.

Click photos to enlarge.

Evening in Cardwell Quarry.

For a summers evening this location has one of the best views in Lancashire over Chipping Vale.

Chipping Vale

                                                      Chipping Vale

Sunset from Cardwell.

                                             Sunset from Cardwell.


Notice all the standing water in the fields from recent deluges, it’s Chipping Show this next weekend so hopefully things will dry up.

For details of the routes go to the BMC guide – Lancashire [1999] or UKC  data base at http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1396

FINLANDIA QUARRY – CLIMBING GUIDE

FINLANDIA.                                                                O.S. Ref. SD 687 405

Finlandia.

Finlandia.

Situation  and Character.

A small gritstone  quarry on the east end of Longridge Fell. There are three rock  faces above a pool each giving a different style of climbing. The east facing wall gives the best climbing. The quarry is very sheltered from the prevailing weather and receives plenty of sunshine till late afternoon. There is however seepage on two of the walls after rain. There are a few belay stakes and plenty of trees.

Approach and Access.  

 From the rough parking place at Kemple End cross the road and go through a gateway, a short track leads into quarry. The land is part of the Tilhill Economic Forestry coverage and no problems have been encountered.

The Climbs.                                                                                            

Climbs are described from right to left.   They vary in height from 5m to 8m.  Commencing with the faulted and cracked wall seen on right when entering the quarry, climbs are described R – L.

1. First Fin  VS  4c  Layback the hanging arête right of an obvious corner.

2. The Baltic  VD  The obvious corner.

3. Second Fin  HSev  4b *   Climb a thin crack to reach the arête.

4. Bo  VS  4c    The crack 1m left with an awkward start.

5. Frank  HS  4b   The crack system 2m left.

6. Marc  Sev  4a   Ragged crack in the upper wall.

7. Michael  Sev  4b   The next juggy crack.

8. Where’s Chris ?  HSev  4b   Triple cracks in the upper wall.

9. Sibelius  VD    Blocky crack 1m left finishing right of a tree.

10. Mickey Finn  Sev  4a   Groove and top wall finishing left of the tree.

11. Flying Finn  HSev  4b   Cracks in the short wall 1m left.

 12. Finnan  VD    Climb the corner if you must

13. Helsinki  VS  5a   2m left of the corner gain flakes at 2m to the break and crack above.

14. Kalevala  VS  5a     The ragged cracks 1m left.

15. Suomi  HVS  5a *   The vague green rib gives sustained climbing.

16. Fir and Water  HVS  5b *    Climb onto a block at chest height, from undercut reach break in steep wall above, try and avoid footledge on previous route.

17. Earth Wind and Fire  HVS  5b **    Just right of the arête climb a pocketed wall into a groove with difficulty, from a hollow flake tackle the steep finish.

18. Third Fin  VS  5a **   Climb the arête above the pool from the left side.

19. Blechnum Crack  Sev  4a  Jamming cracks 1m left of the arête.

20. Bilberry Face  HSev  4b  Wall and flakes 2m left finishing right of the tree.

21. Don’t  VD….climb the loose corner.

22. Lapland  HSev  4b   Left of the corner there is an undercut slab above a recess, climb on small edges to flakes and a blocky finish.

23. Northern Lights  VD   Climb up into slot between blocks, a corner and blocks above.

24. Midge Summer’s Day  Sev  4a   From a lower level climb wall past pockets to an exit groove on the right.

25. Bank Holiday  HSev  4b   1m left mantle onto ledge and climb wall to right of tree with a bulging finish.

26. Basking Shark  VS  4c   1m left again mantle onto ledge and finish left of the tree.

27. Lundy Lament  HSev  4b    Broken wall, ragged crack and groove.

28. Flaky  Sev  4a     Flakes leading to the top just right of a tree.

29. Twistin’ By the Pool  VS  4c *   Climb a bulging wall past a large pocket to an undercut break, reach left to a smaller pocket in the upper slab finishing left of tree.

30. Kingfisher  VS  4c     Steep wall just left direct to the upper pocket.

31. Finish!  HSev     From higher level climb the short wall to tree root, finish right behind the tree.

32. Arctic Circle  25m HVS 5a   A right to left girdle of all the walls. Start by climbing the First Fin to the large horizontal break, go past the corner onto the front of the cracked wall traverse the large footledge easily to the left corner. Now tackle the harder wall at three quarters height to reach the arête, Third Fin, belay if using a rope. Continue more easily into the next corner, cross the slab of Lapland, step up onto the block and traverse the wall above the pool past the first tree to finish up Flaky at the second tree.

KEMPLE END – CLIMBING GUIDE

Here is the guide to the climbing at Kemple End.

Kemple Endclick to enlarge

Kemple End                                O.S. Ref. SD 688 405

Situation and Character

Kemple End is a small gritsone quarry at the eastern end of Longridge Fell, ten kilometres from Longridge and six kilometres from Clitheroe. It lies just below the Old Clitheroe Road, but though it is only a few metres from the road, it is virtually hidden  in a pleasant heather/bilberry bowl, with good views of the Ribble Valley from the top. The main buttress faces east while other buttresses and boulders face south. The crag is very sheltered and is often dry and out of the wind when other crags are not. It is ideal for a morning visit, or for grabbing a couple of pitches on a winter’s day.

The rock is up to nine metres high and horizontal faulting lends itself to camming devices. There are belay stakes in the heather bank at the top of the Main Wall and it is worthwhile extending these with tape or rope [sometimes in situ] a few feet to the top of the rock to act as a final runner or lower off.

Approach and Access

From Longridge follow the signposted road up Jeffrey Hill past the caravan site and Craig Y Longridge. Continue south of the golf course, straight ahead at the Newdrop Inn crossroads, to a rough parking area on the right at the far end of the fell as the road starts to descend.

From Clitheroe follow the Edisford Bridge road (B6243), then turn right after the bridge and pub. Continue to Higher Hodder Bridge and turn left up the steep Birdy Brow to a rough parking spot at the top, on the left by a wall.

The quarry is directly under the parking area. To reach the Main Wall, follow the edge of the quarry to the stone wall and continue until a steep descent near a  tree leads to the base of the quarry.

The area is registered common land, but please respect the privacy of the properties to the south.

The Climbs

The routes are described from LEFT to RIGHT.

Main Face.

Most of the climbing is on the Main Face, which lies directly below the stone wall.

 The first seven boulder problems are close to the descent and lead to a walk-off ledge at between three and five metres.

1      Fall Back VD 4m The short wall and mantelshelves at the left side of the   wall.

2      Spring Forward 4c 6m From a lower level, climb flakes in a groove.

3       Evening   5c *  6mJust right is a flaky hold at head-height at the base of a crack. Use this to gain the break.

4      Morning 5b * 6m Make a long reach to a break in small buttress and the wall above.

5      Mourning 4c 6m Climb the groove with a flake on the right into a recess.

6      Creaking 4b 6m The twin edged flake and the wall above.

7      Alone with Tone 4c 6m Just before a step down, climb the wall direct.

8      Birdy Brow S 4a *  9m From the same place, traverse flakes to a sloping ramp and the short wall above.

9      Bird on the Wing VS 4c 7m From the lower level, climb directly through, crossing the previous line.

10    Brow Beater HVS 5b  8m From the left side of the lower level climb direct to an undercut wall with awkward moves to gain the left end of the ramp, finish up the centre of the large, hanging flake.

11    Ribless VS 4c 8m One metre right climb the short wall and pull through the overlap direct keeping left of the rib.

12    Ribbled HVD * 8mShort wall to base of recess, step left to rib as soon as possible, climb to the top.

13    What the Dickens S 9m Climb into the recess and up to the roof, traverse right below the overhang to pull round the nose on good holds.

14    Hard Times HVS 5a * 8m Start just right of the neb and climb past a right pointing flake onto a steep wall left of cracks. Then finish direct without using the neb of previous route.

15    Oliver Twist E1 5b ** 8m Climb past a left pointing flake to the base of twin cracks and follow these awkwardly to the top.

16    Great Expectations HS 4b * 8m Start two metres right and climb into V-shaped notch then up to obvious shallow ledge in the middle of the wall, short top wall.

17    Bleak Friday VS 4c 7m Start just before the ground level rises and climb past pockets to the break, then finish left of the crack.

18    Bleak House VS 4c 7m From a higher level, climb a right-facing groove to the base of a crack which is followed to the top.

19    Boz was Here VS 4c 7m Start a metre farther right and climb to the overhang, then follow the steep crack to better holds.

20    Face Route VD 5m Climb the groove in the right arête to a blocky finish.

Past the dirty corner there are five easy boulder problems (Barnaby, David, Dorrit, Martin, Nicholas). – and more.

Traverses

The horizontal breaks on the Main Face provide several traverses. These are described from left to right, but they can be climbed in either direction The first four are bouldering traverses. The lowest of these is:

21    Lowest Earth 5b+ * 10m From Browbeater, traverse rightwards using holds below the obvious break.

22    Lower Earth 4c 10m From Browbeater traverse the lowest obvious break to the banking.

23    Learning to Wave  5a 10m Just below the two mid-level breaks of Middle Earth is a wavy hand-traverse ledge. This is awkward to start and difficult to finish at the pockets on Bleak Friday.

24    Middle Earth  4a  20m  Starting at Spring Forward traverse right in the obvious mid level break, at the end  drop down to a lower break and traverse back left.

.

25    The Ribble Link HS 4b * 30m A three quarters height girdle. Starting from the level of the first route traverse rightwards past Birdy Brow into the overhung niche ( possible belay ). Continue at the same height along the exposed horizontal break to finish into heather at blocks right of Face Route.

Hodder Buttress.

This is the steep, clean, isolated buttress that lies about 40 metres right of the Main Face.

26    Birdy Prow E2 5c ** 7m From the front base of the overhanging arête at the left of the buttress climb up to a break (sling over ledge above), then make a difficult move to stand on this ledge and finish up the  left side of arête.

27    Ribblesdale High E3 6a ** 7m Starting right of the arête climb pockets to break, moves off a sloping crease lead to the top.

28    Slickenside Crack HVS 5a * 7m The corner crack gives steep climbing after a damp start.

29    Recessed Slab HS 4b 7m Climb onto a large ledge at two metres continue up groove and slab to a small tree.

30    Pointless  4b  6mClimb onto the ledge of Recessed Slab and traverse the break leftwards across the buttress  to finish on a ledge round the corner.

31   Tipping Point  4b  6m  Start on a low ledge just left of the start of Birdy Prow arete, traverse right with hands head height into corner, bridge across to a larger footledge and keep hand traversing to the end.

Further right are more short boulder problems.