FINLANDIA. O.S. Ref. SD 687 405
Situation and Character.
A small gritstone quarry on the east end of Longridge Fell. There are three rock faces above a pool each giving a different style of climbing. The east facing wall gives the best climbing. The quarry is very sheltered from the prevailing weather and receives plenty of sunshine till late afternoon. There is however seepage on two of the walls after rain. There are a few belay stakes and plenty of trees.
Approach and Access.
From the rough parking place at Kemple End cross the road and go through a gateway, a short track leads into quarry. The land is part of the Tilhill Economic Forestry coverage and no problems have been encountered.
Climbs are described from right to left. They vary in height from 5m to 8m. Commencing with the faulted and cracked wall seen on right when entering the quarry, climbs are described R – L.
1. First Fin VS 4c Layback the hanging arête right of an obvious corner.
2. The Baltic VD The obvious corner.
3. Second Fin HSev 4b * Climb a thin crack to reach the arête.
4. Bo VS 4c The crack 1m left with an awkward start.
5. Frank HS 4b The crack system 2m left.
6. Marc Sev 4a Ragged crack in the upper wall.
7. Michael Sev 4b The next juggy crack.
8. Where’s Chris ? HSev 4b Triple cracks in the upper wall.
9. Sibelius VD Blocky crack 1m left finishing right of a tree.
10. Mickey Finn Sev 4a Groove and top wall finishing left of the tree.
11. Flying Finn HSev 4b Cracks in the short wall 1m left.
12. Finnan VD Climb the corner if you must
13. Helsinki VS 5a 2m left of the corner gain flakes at 2m to the break and crack above.
14. Kalevala VS 5a The ragged cracks 1m left.
15. Suomi HVS 5a * The vague green rib gives sustained climbing.
16. Fir and Water HVS 5b * Climb onto a block at chest height, from undercut reach break in steep wall above, try and avoid footledge on previous route.
17. Earth Wind and Fire HVS 5b ** Just right of the arête climb a pocketed wall into a groove with difficulty, from a hollow flake tackle the steep finish.
18. Third Fin VS 5a ** Climb the arête above the pool from the left side.
19. Blechnum Crack Sev 4a Jamming cracks 1m left of the arête.
20. Bilberry Face HSev 4b Wall and flakes 2m left finishing right of the tree.
21. Don’t VD….climb the loose corner.
22. Lapland HSev 4b Left of the corner there is an undercut slab above a recess, climb on small edges to flakes and a blocky finish.
23. Northern Lights VD Climb up into slot between blocks, a corner and blocks above.
24. Midge Summer’s Day Sev 4a From a lower level climb wall past pockets to an exit groove on the right.
25. Bank Holiday HSev 4b 1m left mantle onto ledge and climb wall to right of tree with a bulging finish.
26. Basking Shark VS 4c 1m left again mantle onto ledge and finish left of the tree.
27. Lundy Lament HSev 4b Broken wall, ragged crack and groove.
28. Flaky Sev 4a Flakes leading to the top just right of a tree.
29. Twistin’ By the Pool VS 4c * Climb a bulging wall past a large pocket to an undercut break, reach left to a smaller pocket in the upper slab finishing left of tree.
30. Kingfisher VS 4c Steep wall just left direct to the upper pocket.
31. Finish! HSev From higher level climb the short wall to tree root, finish right behind the tree.
32. Arctic Circle 25m HVS 5a A right to left girdle of all the walls. Start by climbing the First Fin to the large horizontal break, go past the corner onto the front of the cracked wall traverse the large footledge easily to the left corner. Now tackle the harder wall at three quarters height to reach the arête, Third Fin, belay if using a rope. Continue more easily into the next corner, cross the slab of Lapland, step up onto the block and traverse the wall above the pool past the first tree to finish up Flaky at the second tree.