FINLANDIA QUARRY – CLIMBING GUIDE

FINLANDIA.                                                                O.S. Ref. SD 687 405

Finlandia.

Finlandia.

Situation  and Character.

A small gritstone  quarry on the east end of Longridge Fell. There are three rock  faces above a pool each giving a different style of climbing. The east facing wall gives the best climbing. The quarry is very sheltered from the prevailing weather and receives plenty of sunshine till late afternoon. There is however seepage on two of the walls after rain. There are a few belay stakes and plenty of trees.

Approach and Access.  

 From the rough parking place at Kemple End cross the road and go through a gateway, a short track leads into quarry. The land is part of the Tilhill Economic Forestry coverage and no problems have been encountered.

The Climbs.                                                                                            

Climbs are described from right to left.   They vary in height from 5m to 8m.  Commencing with the faulted and cracked wall seen on right when entering the quarry, climbs are described R – L.

1. First Fin  VS  4c  Layback the hanging arête right of an obvious corner.

2. The Baltic  VD  The obvious corner.

3. Second Fin  HSev  4b *   Climb a thin crack to reach the arête.

4. Bo  VS  4c    The crack 1m left with an awkward start.

5. Frank  HS  4b   The crack system 2m left.

6. Marc  Sev  4a   Ragged crack in the upper wall.

7. Michael  Sev  4b   The next juggy crack.

8. Where’s Chris ?  HSev  4b   Triple cracks in the upper wall.

9. Sibelius  VD    Blocky crack 1m left finishing right of a tree.

10. Mickey Finn  Sev  4a   Groove and top wall finishing left of the tree.

11. Flying Finn  HSev  4b   Cracks in the short wall 1m left.

 12. Finnan  VD    Climb the corner if you must

13. Helsinki  VS  5a   2m left of the corner gain flakes at 2m to the break and crack above.

14. Kalevala  VS  5a     The ragged cracks 1m left.

15. Suomi  HVS  5a *   The vague green rib gives sustained climbing.

16. Fir and Water  HVS  5b *    Climb onto a block at chest height, from undercut reach break in steep wall above, try and avoid footledge on previous route.

17. Earth Wind and Fire  HVS  5b **    Just right of the arête climb a pocketed wall into a groove with difficulty, from a hollow flake tackle the steep finish.

18. Third Fin  VS  5a **   Climb the arête above the pool from the left side.

19. Blechnum Crack  Sev  4a  Jamming cracks 1m left of the arête.

20. Bilberry Face  HSev  4b  Wall and flakes 2m left finishing right of the tree.

21. Don’t  VD….climb the loose corner.

22. Lapland  HSev  4b   Left of the corner there is an undercut slab above a recess, climb on small edges to flakes and a blocky finish.

23. Northern Lights  VD   Climb up into slot between blocks, a corner and blocks above.

24. Midge Summer’s Day  Sev  4a   From a lower level climb wall past pockets to an exit groove on the right.

25. Bank Holiday  HSev  4b   1m left mantle onto ledge and climb wall to right of tree with a bulging finish.

26. Basking Shark  VS  4c   1m left again mantle onto ledge and finish left of the tree.

27. Lundy Lament  HSev  4b    Broken wall, ragged crack and groove.

28. Flaky  Sev  4a     Flakes leading to the top just right of a tree.

29. Twistin’ By the Pool  VS  4c *   Climb a bulging wall past a large pocket to an undercut break, reach left to a smaller pocket in the upper slab finishing left of tree.

30. Kingfisher  VS  4c     Steep wall just left direct to the upper pocket.

31. Finish!  HSev     From higher level climb the short wall to tree root, finish right behind the tree.

32. Arctic Circle  25m HVS 5a   A right to left girdle of all the walls. Start by climbing the First Fin to the large horizontal break, go past the corner onto the front of the cracked wall traverse the large footledge easily to the left corner. Now tackle the harder wall at three quarters height to reach the arête, Third Fin, belay if using a rope. Continue more easily into the next corner, cross the slab of Lapland, step up onto the block and traverse the wall above the pool past the first tree to finish up Flaky at the second tree.

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