FINLANDIA QUARRY – CLIMBING GUIDE

FINLANDIA.                                                                O.S. Ref. SD 687 405

Situation and Character.

A small gritstone quarry on the east end of Longridge Fell. There are two rock  faces each giving a different style of climbing.  The quarry is very sheltered from the prevailing weather and receives plenty of sunshine till late afternoon. There is however seepage after rain. There are a few belay stakes and plenty of trees.

Approach and Access.  

 From the rough parking place at Kemple End cross the road and go through a gateway, a short track leads into the quarry. The land is part of the Tilhill Economic Forestry coverage and no problems have been encountered.

The Climbs.                                                                                            

Climbs are described from right to left.   They vary in height from 5m to 8m.  Commencing with the faulted and cracked wall seen on right when entering the quarry, climbs are described R – L.

1. First Fin  VS  4c  Layback the hanging arête right of an obvious corner.

2. The Baltic  VD  The obvious corner.

3. Second Fin  HSev  4b *   Climb a thin crack to reach the arête.

4. Bo  VS  4c    The crack 1m left with an awkward start.

5. Frank  HS  4b   The crack system 2m left.

6. Marc  Sev  4a   Ragged crack in the upper wall.

7. Michael  Sev  4b   The next juggy crack.

8. Where’s Chris?  HSev  4b   Triple cracks in the upper wall.

9. Sibelius  VD    Blocky crack 1m left finishing right of a tree.

10. Mickey Finn  Sev  4a   Groove and top wall finishing left of the tree.

Rockfall has demolished this small east-facing wall.  Keep well clear.  [December 2019]

The wall directly above the pool.

22. Lapland  HSev  4b   Left of the corner there is an undercut slab above a recess, climb on small edges to flakes and a blocky finish.

23. Northern Lights  VD   Climb up into slot between blocks, a corner and blocks above.

24. Midge Summer’s Day  Sev  4a   From a lower level climb wall past pockets to an exit groove on the right.

25. Bank Holiday  HSev  4b   1m left mantle onto a ledge and climb the wall to the right of tree with a bulging finish.

26. Basking Shark  VS  4c   1m left again mantle onto a ledge and finish left of the tree.

27. Lundy Lament  HSev  4b    Broken wall, ragged crack and groove.

28. Flaky  Sev  4a     Flakes leading to the top just right of a tree.

29. Twistin’ By the Pool  VS  4c *   Climb a bulging wall past a large pocket to an undercut break, reach left to a smaller pocket in the upper slab finishing left of the tree.

30. Kingfisher  VS  4c     Steep wall just left direct to the upper pocket.

31. Finish!  HSev     From higher level climb the short wall to tree root, finish right behind the tree.

 

1 thought on “FINLANDIA QUARRY – CLIMBING GUIDE

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.