Haven’t climbed with ‘Batesieman’ for a while so it was great to meet up for a trip to the southern Eden Valley. The best way to start a visit here is to come off the motorway at Tebay [J38] and enjoy a coffee or even breakfast in the Truckstop cafe. This morning, being a Sunday with few trucks, they were virtually empty. Quite roads lead through sleepy villages to King’s Meaburn where a lane drops down to a ford which at present is still suffering damage from last years floods. The concrete has been washed away and only 4x4s risk a crossing of the River Lyvennet. Apparently in 1745 Bonnie Prince Charlie crossed here to rendezvous with his troops in Shap, but he does seem to have been everywhere.
There is parking and a short walk past an idyllic cottage brings you to the crag hidden in the trees above the river. The crags real name is Jackdaw Scar which becomes apparent as the raucous birds greeted us, occasionally one would fly out of a crack and there was excrement everywhere.
The crag is unusual in that there is a base of eroded sandstone below the steep limestone walls. There are several bays which made for easy orientation even for us and we soon spied out possible lines.
A flake for later.
The sun was just coming round onto the faces and all fears, mainly mine, of a cold hands day disappeared. In fact the weather turned out perfect for climbing in this lovely setting. What followed was a great afternoon romping up a variety of routes. Juggy cracks of all widths, flakes and blocky walls on steep solid limestone which seemed to give excellent friction, the sandstone band at the base adding to the interest. A couple and child arrived and set up camp below the crag, whilst the couple climbed the boy entertained himself in the trees and stream – an ideal family venue. We lunched by the ford and rounded the afternoon off with an exciting ascent of that flake.
The top of Bay Rum.
TD Corner – roots.
The arete of Scarlet Lyvenett.
The classic Marik.
Even completed the day with a pint and a curry. Perfect.
For the record…
Bay Rum VD TD Corner VD Percy Throwup VD Kirsten Wall HS 4b Scarlet Lyvenett MVS 4b The Flake VS 4c.
That looks like an archetypal secret crag. Just going to see where it is on the map in between doing Guardian crossword, reading murder mystery novels and waiting until Thursday on Ward 33.
Just seen your message about Thursday, bet it can’t come soon enough.
Ah, I was in digs for several months at a farm in neighbouring Maulds Meaburn when I worked for a local quarrying firm, so I sort of know this area. Haven’t seen the crag, though. Hope the curry was up to scratch.
Alen
Hi Alen,
That crag is well hidden so you wouldn’t have spotted it. What sort of quarry were you working in? there is limestone and sandstone in the Eden area, as you know.
A pint and a curry, those are two of the pleasures I would miss if living in Spain but I know you have excellent alternatives – a glass of red and fresh fish. Did I mention Fish and Chips. Just watching the Tour of Yorkshire cycle race.
I worked in the sawing and polishing sheds at Crosby Ravensworth. Limestone blocks were brought from Orton Scar and Shap, sandstone from Penrith and Galgate, near Lancaster, and granite from Shap and Galloway. The business closed a few years back. Must admit, I do miss a good English pint and a curry.
Alen
That looks quite a nice crag and at least it has some VDiffs for me (I can do severes as well but not much above really). Looks quite a big crag though – what sort of height is it?
It’s not that tall, 30 – 40feet.
The situation is idealic. Easy access and quality routes.
Sounds perfect for me – I don’t like the multi-pitch stuff or things which are around 100 feet tall as I find it a bit alarming. I’m used to the Yorkshire outcrops I used to climb on – they were all limestone and about 30 feet max. Suited me down to the ground. I’ll have to try to get my new club interested in that crag.
Worth a visit.
I just followed your link to this post from John Bainbridge’s post. We stayed in that very idyllic cotttage during the summer of 1996.
What a coincidence. It is a lovely spot and area.
We probably walked past you.