Kentford to Ickingham. 

The transition to sand is quite abrupt. I literally step onto it as I cross the road in Kentford.  The flints are still present, but the chalk has been overlaid.

On the map, a road runs from Kentford to Lackford, marked as Icknield Way in that olde English writing.  A tempting straight line, but that would involve miles of road walking. Instead, the guidebook takes a different route through the villages of Herringwell and Tuddenham, where a version of the Icknield Way may have gone.

But first, a visit to the shop for some freshly made sandwiches for lunch. I walk back along the busy road. A quick look at St.Mary’s Church.

.Despite the fact that they closed the door in my face yesterday, I call in at the cafe for coffee and a croissant. I end up chatting to a cyclist who is a francophile, and we have had many common experiences over there.

The morning drifts on, but it is sunny and warm. Why rush?

There is a large BMX, MTB and pump track right by the roadside. It looks impressive, but there are no riders out this early. There is a lot of sand in evidence. 

I sneak under the railway and pass by a large sand and gravel pit operated by Tarmac.

And then I escape the traffic and dust and wander along a quiet byway. They are harvesting maize for cattle feed in the next fields.  A military organisation. The field of maize disappears before my eyes.

The Pine trees for which the Breckland is known appear on cue.

Easy walking into Herringswell, a small place with one street.

The village sign reflects that the village was once renowned for its fish caught in the Fens, before the area was drained.

The Church of St. Ethelbert is a plain and compact structure, having been rebuilt in 1870 following a fire. It is, however, well known for its 20th-century Arts and Crafts style stained glass windows, depicting both rural and religious scenes.

Here are some of the windows.

On a more personal level. And I do always like Staffordshire tiles.

Back outside, the sun is still shining bright. I feel I am on a summer holiday.

I leave the village on a long lane, blue bin day, which eventually turns into a sandy track.

Tuddenham provided me with a seat on the village green to eat those sandwiches and a nice village pond, there didn’t seem to be much else.

A road to nowhere becomes a sandy track leading into the Cavenham Heath Nature Reserve.

They are trying to preserve the heathland, which is man-made in the first place. Agricultural practices over the centuries have been preventing tree growth.

The track becomes sandier as one traverses the heath; there are lots of tempting side paths. The place must be a delight in July and August when the heather is blooming.

Big open skies to the north, from where I could hear but never see planes. Turns out there is an American air base up there, Mildenhall. The track slowly descends to the River Lark. There used to be a stone bridge here, thus linking the track to Icklingham. This Temple Bridge became unsafe and was demolished in 2002. The replacement footbridge is a  little disappointing. I could easily have used the ford over the Lark today; in fact, I wish I had.

It is a simple stroll into the village. I pass by the modern flour mill, with its interesting history. One of my sons is a baker. The Guinness Arms is welcoming, I grab a pint and go and sit in the garden overlooking the River Lark. This could be the last warm day of summer. The Guinness Arms is part of the Guinness family-owned Elveden Estate. Throughout the hotel are pictures of the Guinness family in their heyday. 

It is a comfortable inn with good food and of course…I’m enjoying being in Suffolk.

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