Well there were JD and me, the three scientists doing a peat survey for some research organisation, the Three Stone Men who have been there for who knows how long, and a few others stone ones scattered around. The peat survey was interesting as we are just waking up to the importance of peat as an important carbon storage resort. We were happy to sit in the shelter of the Three Men as there was a distinctly cold breeze coming from the Northwest. A good opportunity to take a break and eat our sandwiches.
Our journey up the motorway had not been straight forward as I missed the turn-off to Caton and the Lune Valley. Another junction farther north and JD’s phone chose an alternative route over towards Kirkby Lonsdale, although eventually on the A65 we ignored the lady navigator and followed the sign up to the little hamlet of Ireby. I shall not reveal where we parked, but there should be space by the telephone (book) box. Surely we are in Yorkshire by now, but no the Lancastrians have pushed a finger into Cumbria and Yorkshire. We are in fact out to climb the highest (allegedly) hill in the Red Rose county, walk number 16 in Mark Sutcliffe’s Cicerone guidebook.
Up to now we have been walking on a distinct lane out of Ireby and then the tarmac road heading up the fell from Leck. All easy going, gaining height almost effortlessly, at least we could keep up a good conversation without getting out of puff. JD is super fit at the moment having recently completed a pilgrim route to Santiago, a Scottish trip and The Dales Way. I was hoping that his all-inclusive hotel stay in Menorca with his wife might have slowed him down. We are in limestone territory.
This road leads to a remote sheep farm. I used to park up along here for exploring the nearby Leck Fell potholes. Short Drop Cave was always a favourite, lowering yourself in with your feet dangling in fresh air in the darkness, dare you let go of the rock? Of course, you did and only dropped a few inches! You could explore the channel for some distance and then worry about getting out again. But today we were heading up to those stone men visible on the hillside above. Conversation dwindles on the steepest scrambling bit, look at the contours, and we are all too ready for that rest at the Three Men.

The Three Men.

The Three Ladies.
Lunch over we chat to the peat surveyors before strolling the last section to the lonely trig point on Gragareth, 627 m, the highest in Lancashire. Now this is where some debate comes in, farther north across the barren moor is Green Hill, still in Lancashire, and marked on the OS map as 628 m. We don’t fancy the two-mile boggy trudge up there. But help is at hand – in 2014 the Database of British and Irish Hills suggested “Gragareth replaces Green Hill as Lancashire county top”. Gragareth having a height of 628 metres, 100 metres east of the trig point, while Green Hill is 627.5 metres. Who knows?
Anyhow, we slink off along the wall southwards. But I have forgotten to tell you about the views from that highest point. Morecambe Bay, Lakeland hills, nearby Barbon fells, all those rounded hills up to Dentdale, Whernside and of course stately Ingleborough, distant Pendle and the Bowland Fells, quite a collection.

Northwards.

Whernside.

Ingleborough.
On down along the wall and then a vague path down to the ‘Turbary Road’ above Kingsdale, a track used by peat cutters – yes we have been destroying the land long before climate change was thought of. This area is full of caves, potholes and dry riverbeds, but the way missed most of them out. On reflection a few small diversions to peer into these limestone features would have added interest.

Marble Steps Pot.

Twistleton Scar End.

Turbary Road.
Once on the lane we made good progress stopping only at a bench for a drink, out of the vegetation crept a giant dung beetle.
Masongill looked delightful.
Freshly cut green fields, and we were soon crossing the ancient clapper bridge into Ireby.
It was good to be back in Limestone Country, as you can see the weather improved as the day went on. Eight and a half miles with 1700ft of ascent – I’m still thinking imperial.
***
Sunday, 7th March 2004 – my ascent of Gragareth (and Tow Scar.)
I commented that the The Three Men had been cleverly positioned on the edge so as to be visible from below – if they’d been nearer rte summit they wouldn’t have been visible. From Tow scar I set a compass bearing back to the road where my car was parked and was proud to discover the bearing took me to exactly the plotted point on the road. but…
“I had misread the map. My arrival point was where the road became unfenced on its northern side, and my car was parked at the point a bit less than a mile further up the road where it becomes unfenced on both sides. It’s no good being good with the compass if you don’t read the map properly!”
By the way, is that a six legged frog at JD’s foot?
No, a scary dung beetle.
Years since I was up there. It’s a strange summit and, as you say, the debate over whether or not it’s Lancashire’s highest point. I cheated and drove up the road towards Leck Fell House as far as I could, then yomped up the side to the three men, but that circuit of yours looks like a much better day out.
I hesitate to drive up and park on some of these single track roads since lockdown, when they were inundated with thoughtless parking. There are a lot more ‘no parking ‘ signs now, which I take heed of – what’s an extra mile to add to your day? And I don’t want my car scratched by a passing tractor.
That circuit was perfect, including your yomp up to the summit.