Time to head into the hills. After a good breakfast I was ready to be away fairly early from the pub. Interestingly the garage opposite had more farmers’ quad bikes in for servicing than cars. 
Refueling.
It was a short drive up the valley into Mallerstang proper. On the way I passed the ruins of Pendragon Castle. The early morning light was so clear that I made a quick photographic stop in case things were murkier when I returned, it starts getting dark between three and four.
There is a lot of legend associated with the castle. it was supposedly built by Uther Pendragon, the father of King Arthur. It is said he tried to divert the river to form a moat.
A well known local couplet goes –
Let Uther Pendragon do what he can, Eden will run where Eden ran.
The castle was built during the reign of King Rufus in the 12th century by Ranulph de Meschines, After attacks by Scottish raiders in 1541 it became uninhabitable until the C17th when Lady Anne Clifford inherited it. She rebuilt it and added to it in 1660. It remained one of the favourites among her many castles until her death in 1676 at the age of 86. She spent her time between Skipton Castle and here in Westmorland becoming involved with local affairs and restoring several nearby churches. A long distance walk tracing her travels passes this way. There is a statue of her in Kirkby Stephen market place. 
Her successor, the Earl of Thanet, had no use for the castle and removed anything of value from it, By the 1770s much of the building had collapsed. It now stands as a romantic ruin with pointy Wild Boar Fell in the background. 
Whilst wandering around the ruins I was treated to a flypast by a Lockheed Hercules. 
I drove through Outhgill which I visited yesterday and parked up at The Thrang for a walk I had picked off the net. It would take me up to the first Eden Benchmark, Water Cut – before visiting Hell Gill and its waterfalls, and then wandering back past valley farms.
Quite a broad track headed away from the valley floor, an old bridleway to Hawes at the head of Wensleydale. All the rivulets coming down from Mallerstang Edge were in full flow and my feet were wet after the first ford crossing. 
That dot on the horizon turned out to be the benchmark in its very prominent position – how come I have never spotted it before? After some steady walking and a few more fords it was reached at about 420m. 
Water Cut by Mary Bourne. 1996.
“Water Cut is located a few miles from the source of the river Eden, high up on the eastern side of the Mallerstang valley. Like a huge milestone, it stands alongside the ancient green road known as Lady Anne Clifford’s Way. The space carved between the two vertical pillars creates the shape of a meandering river in the sky and provides a ‘window’ onto the real river in the valley below. It also symbolises the power of the river Eden cutting through the rock on its journey through East Cumbria and our own human journeys through the rural landscape and through life. Made from Salterwath Limestone, taken from a quarry near Shap, it also resembles the gate posts and stiles in drystone walls, which are so characteristic of the area, whilst it’s outer curve makes reference to the viaduct arches on the nearby Settle-Carlisle railway.”
Mary Bourne is an accomplished stone carver, living in the North East Scotland. Her work explores forms of the landscape and her relationship with the natural environment.
I played about with various camera angles. The more I looked they resembled two salmon leaping, are there salmon in the Eden?
From up here one has good views north along Mallerstang Edge and across the valley to Wild Boar Fell. The limestone lower layers contrasting with the overlying gritstone.
Not much farther I came to Hell Gill, I could hear it well before I reached the bridge over it. A deep rift in the limestone tearing down the hillside with thrashing waters in its depths. This was dramatic. I tried to get views down into the canyon but it was sensibly well fenced off. All was green mossy and ferny, I think there are fairies down there. 
The water tumbled on down the hillside and I followed. It came to a welcome rest at a ford. 
But what was that noise? A small steep detour and I could see the next and probably the best cataract. A video should have been taken. 
My boots were under water crossing the fast flowing ford. 
It must be all downhill from here but the next few miles tried my patience. I was basking in the beauty of Mallerstang and yet struggling to find the bridleway marked on the map on the ground. There was a lot more rough walking to come. It tended to keep above the top intake wall and hence involved tussocky grass and boggy areas. Few people use this way. 
There were a few more waterfalls to admire and the light on the other side of the valley was beautiful. No steam on the Settle to Carlisle today.
Eventually I made my way to the valley bottom and along by the Eden back to my car just as the sun was going down behind Wild Boar Fell.
I would highly recommend this walk, it packs a lot into those 6 miles without going onto the tops. I never saw another person.
Mallerstang-trail.pdf (edenriverstrust.org.uk)
***
That looks stunning. A visit to Pendragon castle has long been on my list, but I didn’t know about the Mary Bourne sculpture. I’m really taken with that.
Eden Valley is a gem. More stunning sculptures to come. Would recommend the Black Bull in Nateby if you want to make a weekend of it.
Thank you. I’ve made a note of that.
Grand walking country – Lady Anne is buried in Appleby church and, when I pass her tomb, I often picture what these places must have been like in her day – her diaries are well worth reading, giving the troublous decades she lived through.
I needed more time up there to explore Appleby and Kirkby.
As good as it gets without walking the tops. I did part of your route along with Wild Boar back in 2011. Somewhere I have a photo of Water Cut but can’t track it down at the moment – excuse for another visit?https://conradwalks.blogspot.com/search?q=Lady+Anne%27s+Way
That was quite a circuit you did way back then.
Well at least you and I have these things to look back on.
By the way. Your WordPress has recently altered the presentation of my email notifications of comments on your blog. The system makes it difficult to understand who is saying what and all wrapped up in other extraneous material. Who are these people making life so complicated? I now don’t bother to read them finding it much easier to go straight to the web version of your blog where everything is clear and easy.
WP is a pain for writing also – just when you are on top of it they change it.
Great pictures. glad you had good weather because it is a nice walk. It brought back memories of my Eden end to end walk starting at the source high up on the hillside. I didn’t complete it and so I never published what I did. Maybe one day I will finish it.
Thanks Alan. Really interesting area, glad I made a mini break out of it.
Great photos of the Watercut. Hope to get up there next year. Pendragon Castle looks nice too, handy that it isn’t that far from the sculpture.
That area will be accessible from your caravan.
Yes, we’ve been to Kirkby Stephen before but never there.
Next time?
Great photos BC, it looks like a lovely area to visit. I like the dog peeping out through what i presume is an old barn door and I agree with you about the sculpture, it does look like two leaping salmon.
Thanks Eunice.
I had two photos of the dog, one snarling aggressively and the other more curious – I chose the latter.
Terrific country. Enjoyed that very much. Those waterfalls looked stunning.
Such a beautiful valley. One of the best.
Garden of Eden?
What a wonderful landscape. Really enjoyed your account and the pics.
Thanks glad you liked it. Check out my other posts for the Eden Valley.
A great walk with lovely views. The sculpture is nice. I like the photo of the curious border collie.
That little walk is excellent- found it on the net somewhere. https://www.edenriverstrust.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Mallerstang-trail.pdf
That’s definitely a walk I’d like to follow in your footsteps. I’ve fancied getting up into Mallerstang since our little holiday in Kirkby Steven back in March. But I think it’s one to attempt in finer weather than we have at the moment and when the days are longer.
Quite so.
https://www.edenriverstrust.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Mallerstang-trail.pdf
Downloaded it. Ta 👍
The sculpture is great, but the waterfalls are even better. Looks like a fabulous route.
Yes. I found it here.
https://www.edenriverstrust.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Mallerstang-trail.pdf