It must be 40 years since I walked ‘The Eden Way’, which as the name suggests follows the River Eden from its source in the fells above Mallerstang, through Kirkby Stephen and Appleby, past Carlisle to the Solway Firth. I remember I only took a bivy bag for lightness and ended up quite damp several mornings.
It’s an area a little out of comfortable reach from Lancashire and I have neglected it over the years. Some recent climbing nearby has brought it back to my attention and it so happens that one of the many books I have read in this month or so of poor weather was ‘The Stream Invites Us To Follow’ by Dick Capel. ( I seem to recollect John Bainbridge recommending it, that is one of the joys of Blogging, your readers, few though they may be, often come up with suggestions which you have overlooked. Thanks John )
Dick Capel came to Cumbria in 1982 working as a warden in the National Park as it was then. He changed areas in 1991 starting work for the East Cumbria Countryside Project, ECCP. This aimed to promote the conservation and enhancement of the natural environment of East Cumbria. During this time he became heavily involved with the Eden Valley and particularly in developing a series of sculpture trails reflecting the area. He writes evocatively of the area and his own trials and tribulations. In particular he highlights The Eden Benchmarks, The Poetry Path and a series of Goldsworthy Pinfolds that appeared under his watch.
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The Eden Benchmarks.
The Benchmarks are a series of ten contemporary stone sculptures located at intervals along the length of the river Eden between its source above the Mallerstang valley and to the Solway Firth.
“Ten sculptor’s were chosen as part of the East Cumbrian Countryside Project, ECCP. The artists’ brief allowed creative freedom to produce site-specific sculpture, which harmonises with the landscape and captures the essence of each unique locality. The sculptors worked in residence for six weeks and this enabled them to formulate their ideas by familiarising themselves with the locations and talking with local people, including schools, who were encouraged to visit their workshops to see the sculptures taking shape”
“Collectively the sculptures give visual expression to our awareness of the river’s ecology and the need to look after it; individually they foster a profound sense of place, their capacity as seats accommodating an interactive focus for quiet reflection”.
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The Poetry Path.
Encouraged by the success of Eden Benchmarks Capel’s next arts project was the Poetry Path by the Eden on the edge of Kirkby Stephen interpreting the hill farmer’s life and love for the Eden Valley.
“Twelve short poems, written by Meg Peacocke, have been carved by lettering artist Pip Hall on blocks of stone installed at intervals along a circuital route either side of the river Eden. Decorative motifs with each poem depict some of the activities associated with every month of the hill farmer’s year”
“The aim of the Poetry Path is to introduce a permanent and integrated interpretative experience into the landscape, which is assimilated as part of the heritage it promotes and conveys a powerful message about the farmer’s potential role in maintaining a sensitive but viable hill-farming regime in relation to the natural environment as a resource both for nature conservation as well as food production”.
I could not have written that.
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Andy Goldsworthy’s Pinfold Cairns.
In the area there are six of these stone cones built into village pinfolds, which used to hold stray animals, Created by the sculptor Andy Goldsworthy (1996 – 2002) supposedly based on the prominent piles of stones called the Nine Standards above Kirkby Stephen. At one time Goldsworthy lived in the area.
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The funding ran out in 2008 for the ECCP. But the art remains. Sculptures and poems reflecting the area’s heritage and beauty, and hopefully enhancing peoples enjoyment and understanding of the countryside and environment.
Dick’s book has acted as a catalyst for some exploration on my part. I find myself visiting friends up here so I have decided to stay on, I’ve booked into the Black Bull in Nateby for a few days. 
A related website provides all the information you need on all the installations. I have quoted above from that site.
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“The stream invites us to follow…and certainly, there is no more fascinating pastime than to keep company with a river from its source to sea” W H Hudson, Afoot in England.
I remember a fabulous few days searching for the Goldsworthy sculptures. I should have bought the book 😀
He has a good website pinpointing all his installations. I have previously come across some of them randomly – they are unmistakable. My favourites are the ones on Clougha Pike. https://bowlandclimber.com/2014/05/28/out-on-the-loose-again-clougha-pike-and-grit-fell/
There’s something great about finding one unexpectedly. I must go back.
They are everywhere. I seem to remember one on the North Downs Way. Must look it up.
Ah, we look forward to further dispatches! I had a week at Great Salkeld once, a very quiet and beautiful part of the valley. I hope the weather stays fine for you. Looking a bit nippy though. 🙂
I’m a few days in arrears but watch this space.
It sounds interesting BC, I look forward to reading more 🙂
I started my campaign to walk the Eden Way by a trip to the source, then some discussion with Gimmer who comments here culminated in a vague idea for us to continue that wslk togethe so I refrained from continuing on my own.Then Covdid/Lockdown intervened and the plan more or less became history.. Over the last few days, and before your posting about this walk I have been looking at the possibility of doing bits in circular walks from the car. I look forward to reading more of your expedition.
Coming up soon. It is a much neglected area.
Eden remains a very good place to walk if you want to get away from the crowds and has a delightful mix of scenery. Apart from High Cup, even the high Eden Pennines csan be very quiet by comparison to the Lake District.
Your home turf John.
Indeed.
Ah fabulous, look forward to future posts. We have a few books at the van about the Eden Way, as of course , Melmerby is just in The Eden Valley. Have seen some of the benchmarks ( still need to check out the Watercut at Mallastang) and enjoy finding them. The poetry path is interesting too.
Just waiting for Mr Hugo to get back to better walking health so I can back to blogging about walks again. Enjoy your stay.
Had a great time up there, so peaceful. Posts coming soon.
Sorry to hear Hugo not well. Give him a treat from me.
Thanks, he’s just having those Labrador leg and joint problems that the breed is infamous for, so on short flat walks at the mo.
I know the feeling.
Take care.
Interesting blog post. I don’t know a lot about the Eden valley and I didn’t know the Eden Way existed.
Lots of places to explore. A quiet part of Cumbria.
Brilliant – I didn’t know about the book, although I have another one somewhere about the Eden Valley and a Cicerone Press guide to the Eden Way, a route which is definitely on my hit list. I didn’t know about the sculptures or the poetry path – more grist for my mill. I was aware of the Goldsworthy pinfolds, I’ve just been looking at a website dedicated to Goldsworthy sheepfolds in general in fact, but I haven’t got around to visiting any of those either.
Eden Valley Tourism created a series of leaflets each with a suggested walk which were available online for a while. Pip Hall created posts with pictures on which could be used to make a rubbing (I think) which we enjoyed when we did a couple of the walks.
Dick Capel’s book is a good read all round, cetainly stimulated me as you can see. .Abe books have copies. I buy too many books from them.
My favourite Goldsworthy’s are the ‘stone pods’ between Clougha Pike and Grit Fell.
Having not been away for some time I really enjoyed that short stint in the Eden Valley.
I really like the Clough’s Pike sculptures too.