I find myself walking along a slippy rocky ledge just above the fast flowing River Roeburn. I have long since lost the path if ever there was one. Then it all stops at a steep landslide. Go back or try to climb out into the woods above. Chapter 8, of Cicerone’s Walking in Lancashire, ‘The Enchanted Valley’ of Roeburndale had promised so much.
I have battled with the paths down here before. This time coming in from the south with detailed instructions from the guidebook it should be a doddle. I’ve had my lunch in the little Methodist Chapel at Lower Salter and I find the ladder stile into fields above the Roeburn. There are helpful ‘Concessionary Footpath’ signs although for some reason a map presumably showing them has been vandalised. The vague path keeps above the gorge and its trees until a way down is found to the river at a footbridge I recognise. But the guide says “remain on the west bank”. I try to but the path just disappears in the undergrowth and tree cover. I retreat to the footbridge and try the east bank. 
A path comes and goes, I ignore the obvious path we had descended from this side to get here last time. I battle on by the river hoping a better path may appear, but it doesn’t. I enter a rocky gorge and spot a vehicle ford across the river. Awkward side streams need careful attention. There are some footbridges but with their wooden slats missing, presumably only in use in season by the shooters or fishermen. I don’t know where they lead to anyhow, so I don’t risk crossing them commando style. There is even a pulley cage across the torrent a little farther on, I certainly wouldn’t risk that. There was a serious accident near here in January 2022 involving an all-terrain vehicle pulling a trailer when a bridge gave way
The last post.
Maybe I should turn back, but my stubbornness drives me on hoping to find a way that might correspond to the guidebook. The gorge deepens and my only way of progress is at the water’s edge on those slippery rock ledges just above the water. I even contemplate walking in the shallows but they are fast-flowing. This is the river that flooded in 1967, taking out all the bridges and demolishing many cottages downstream at Wray. 
The camping bothy appears on the other side, it’s marked on the map so I know where I am. But the landslide looms ahead and this is where I realise my best way of escape, not necessarily the safest, is to climb the couple of hundred feet up a steep bank above me, knowing there are paths along the top edge of the woods.
It is steep and slippery and I make frequent use of tree roots, clumps of grass and my knees on my slow progress upwards. Not a place to have an accident, especially alone. I reach the top and the wall into fields but find no trace of the paths we had used in reverse last time. So I just continue following the top edge of the woods inside the fell wall. Roe deer scuttle in front of me. The GPS on my phone keeps my position up to date. 
I eventually have to climb the fence into the fields when I become hemmed in by a deer fence and then can meet up with right of way coming up from the river. This deposits me onto the lane which I nonchalantly follow back to my car parked in Wray. 
All’s well that ends well. With hindsight I should not have bushwhacked for so far searching for a path by the river. After crossing that footbridge I should have taken the path heading out of the gorge and walked back through the woods. The OS map doesn’t have the paths marked. Certainly the Cicerone guide book chapter is totally misleading for this section down Roeburndale and anybody using it will soon become lost. Undeterred I want to revisit these woods later in the year for their spectacular bluebell display, any takers? This post has some good photos.
*
The day had started out better, walking out of Wray using little lanes and crossing Hunts Gill Beck by a bridge which narrowly avoided destruction by a falling tree.
Wray Bridge.
Then above Alcock’s Farm a long series of fields to Harterbeck Farm. A family are out for a pleasant Spring stroll, why didn’t I do the same? Lambing has been in full throw. The way was clear but the ground was boggy, which became rougher the farther I go, it would be just as enjoyable, probably more so, to walk up the quiet road leading to the farm without losing the views or the curlews calling. Next time. Great Coum, Gregareth, Whernside and Ingleborough were constant companions on the NE horizon. Ingleborough always wears the crown and demands to be photographed.
Harterbeck is a lonely farm by any standards. It obviously has a problem with moles and the windows inserted into the back wall must have involved ‘Bob the Builder’.
I’ve been exploring Lancashire for years but I have never been into the steep-sided Pedder Gill and seen the waterfalls of Goodber Beck. Must have spent too many times abroad in warmer climes and neglected my own doorstep. From the farm, after crossing a small beck, the track drops down to the little footbridge and a bit of scrambling down the gorge gets me in close with the waterfalls. A hidden Bowland gem! 
A stroll down the fields and I pass through Lower Salter farmyard. The farmer is repairing his drystone wall, must be the season, but he is not as chatty as the one in Lunesdale the other day. What an isolated life they live up here. 
At the road is the little Methodist Chapel. I go inside for a sit-down and snack.
Built in 1901, the land given by Mr Francis Skirrow of Lower Salter Farm, the cost of the chapel was £180. Mr Skirrow intended the chapel to be used as a school room during the week. This is evidenced by the fact that the pews have holes for inkwells. However, his idea never materialised owing to an inability to hire a teacher. There is a commemorative plaque to Flight Lieutenant Thomas Dirk Bayliss who lost his life on July 3 1979 when his Jet Provost trainer aircraft crashed into a field near High Salter Farm after the pilot became disorientated in heavy mist and flew off course.
Down the road and with spirits high I cross the stile onto that permissive path down Roeburndale… A walk on the wild side.
I don’t know when your Cicerone’s guide was published but it would be going in the bin for me, it sounds like following it could be downright dangerous. I love the little lambs, not so the moles, it makes me sad to see the poor little things like that 🙁
It’s the only walk in the book that has been inaccurate. The valley is subject to flooding which does wash paths away and as they are concessioanry probably not well maintained and hence dont get much traffic. I knew that from previus trips but was hoping to find a better way. Will return in the Bluebell season.
Heavens, yes. My worst nightmare, coming to grief, alone, in a place like that. You did well pioneering a way through. I’ve seen it on the map and often wondered about it. Odd how some paths fall into disuse, but as you say that place must be subject to lots of flooding, and then it’s quite remote – wild country indeed. You’d never get me in the pulley cage, either! A great adventure though.
Info from Forest of Bowland website –
“The valley holds one of the largest and most important areas of ancient semi-natural woodland in Lancashire. Those
along the steep eastern valley slopes through which the footpath runs are designated as a Site of Special Scientific
Interest. The wise range of soils is reflected in the range of woodland types represented. Upland Oak woodland with
Bilberry, Wavy Hair Grass, and Heath Mosses is the most extensive whilst mixed Ash woodland with Dog’s Mercury,
Ramson’s and False Brome and Wet Alder woodland are also present. The woods support a diversity of breeding
birds including Wood Warbler, Pied Flycatcher, Redstart and Green Woodpecker.
The River Roeburndale has shaped the landscape as we know it today and continue to provide vital habitats for the
resident wildlife. The valley’s ancient roots as a hunting ground can be seeing the place names of the area. Roeburn,
Harterbeck and Bow skill Wood all make reference to deer stalking and it is said that even the name Barkin Wood
related to the strange barking calls made by the deer.
Many of the meadows and pastures alongside the river have escaped agricultural improvement as a result of their
small size and inaccessibility. They continue to be managed traditionally and support a rich variety of plants and
invertebrates. Look out for plants such as common Knapweed, Harebell, Pignut and Yellow Rattle. Wet ground
supports plants such as Marsh Marigold, Meadowsweet and Ragged Robin”.
So maybe its better if it rewmains hard of access.
A long time before they’re building houses there.
I’m amazed there is a bothy in there
From your photograph it looks to be in good condition. Perhaps maintained by the estate?
Not sure who maintains it. Sir Hugh and I braved the Himalayan bridge to cross over to have a look around and inside. https://bowlandclimber.com/2019/12/06/another-visit-to-roeburndale/
I could happily stay there. Farther down the valley the Middlewood Trust have a sustainable study centre and orchards. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Middlewood_Trust
Congratulations on persevering along the river bank. A little danger always makes the walk more exciting and rewarding. I’ve pulled myself up many a bank. 🙂
I’m getting too old for such excitement
Brings back vivid memories. Reminds me of Deliverance. I’ve had a go at the mole catching business before – the post linked below brought forth a wealth of comment. When I researched I could find no sufficiently important evidence of them being a threat enough to warrant their extermination. Just another example of a section of our society that enjoys killing animals for fun ( and then boasting about it by nailing them to the fence for all to see.)
https://conradwalks.blogspot.com/2018/12/whos-laughing-now.html
Thought that would bring back memories, if not nightmares. After climbing out of the gorge I couldn’t find the paths we used in the trees. Next time…
The mole situation. Not sure why they need to catch so many. The ‘mole-catcher’ hangs them up as proof of his work in order to get paid.
Roeburndale and the northern part of Bowland has been on my list for some time. Better to wait for when it’s drier, I think and looks like some caution is needed when planning the route. Bluebell season sounds the time to do it. Hopefully we’ll have had some drier weather before then. (I must stop whinging about the weather)
We have all been whinging about the weather.
The maps don’t reliably show the paths in there.
The PROW coming in from the west side, SD 600652 which goes through the Middlewood Centre and down to a good bridge over the river and then back out the other side, SD 612633 is the simplest to get an idea of the place. Routes up and down the valley are not easy. .
I have the Cicerone book too and there’s also a map online from the AONB. After your experience caution definitely needed when using them.
Don’t believe either of them.
Goodness, I’ve never seen so many poor dead moles in my life! I remember a post I shared from Dufton and I felt so guilty for sharing a photograph of a few, I ended up deleting the photo. People were outraged. Well done for persevering with the walk, I hate it when the directions go pear shaped. Does look dangerous by the fast flowing water.
Not a place for the fainthearted.
Hope I don’t get trolled because of the mole photograph.
I am sure you won’t. 🙂
Perhaps my audience are of a sronger constitution.
No reflection on your’s meant.
Your probably right! 😃
Well that was a very exciting read. Well done persevering with it. Impressive.
A bit too exciting. As you can imagine I was in a precarious position and I’m not as agile as I once was.
Sir Hugh and I had an exciting time in there in Dec 2019, I can’t believe it was four years ago – where do they go? Not quite on a par with our trip inro Carlin Gill.
I will have a return bout in the bluebell season, watch this space.
Great stuff. Will have to visit!
Don’t rely on Cicerone’s instructions.