The fun comes at Fairy Steps, which we encounter halfway through the day. This strange slot in the cliff is the scene of many struggles.  Today we are descending, which I think is trickier than climbing up. One enters from the top by a horizontal weakness and then wriggle down the polished slot. Being slim helps. Do you face out or in? I prefer facing in to be able to use the few handholds. Sir Hugh chose the other way. We both take our rucksacs off before the action commences.

Safely down, we read a nearby sign explaining that the cleft was on an ancient coffin route from Arnside to Milnthorpe. The idea that pallbearers could manoeuvre a coffin up this cleft is hard to believe. Supposedly, if you climb or descend the steps without touching the limestone sides of the narrow gully, the fairies will grant you a wish.

No wish today, unfortunately.

I’m late in posting because of other commitments, etc. You can see the day unfold in Sir Hugh’s blog.

A quick look at the weather forecast and a quick phone call to Sir Hugh set us up for a walk today. We park up at the Heron Corn Mill in Beetham, a working water mill on the River Bela that produces flour traditionally. (Open Wednesdays to Sundays, in the summer) We’ve visited several times before, so give it a miss today.

This is another walk in Sir Hugh’s domain. Within 10 yards of leaving the car, he says he has not walked this path. The same comment keeps recurring throughout the short day, but I suspect it is his long-term memory of trudging these paths in years gone by that is creating the ‘confusion’. On the other hand,  I’m certain I have not walked these paths. All bodes well.

Beetham is soon behind us.

We are eager to get into the fields crossing above Beetham Hall with its C14th Pele Tower, a sign of unsettled and war-like conditions that prevailed in the Borders throughout much of the medieval period.  It all looks a bit derelict, but it seems to keep standing.

Limestone squeeze stiles are common on this route, a pretest to Fairy Steps. If you can’t get through this, it’s time to turn around.

A few further stiles and we enter magical woodlands and limestone bluffs. Progress is slow, especially when Fungi spotting takes precedence.

The path wanders through the woods

And then we are onto an extensive limestone pavement. Care is needed to avoid breaking an ankle in one of the grikes as the clints are slippery. Glacial ice sheets scraped away the soil and weathered the rock surface. Over time, the cracks have deepened due to weathering from rainwater. Wonderful.

There is no path as such, but occasionally a waymark post incongruously appears. Should we be even walking on this geological phenomena.

More fungi.

Open tracks and lanes lead us towards Fairy Steps, but it seems to take us ages. Lunch is taken on the shelf above the steps. Once down, we wander through the trees below the limestone mini cliffs. There is a problem with onward progress across the road. But who is pressing on?

More fungi.

We are on familiar territory in the Dallam Estate, but still go wrong at one or two places. The fallow Deer walk past unconcerned. 

A final little hill, across the deer ditch, and then it is down the avenue to the car.

We both agree, a fine day out.

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