Category Archives: Lake District

TAKE A WINDY WALK.

 

My ageing house is like a Beaufort Scale for the wind. Gentle flutters at the windows, 2. Windows start to rattle, 4. Whistling down the stove flue, 6. Cold draughts through any gap, 7. Constant rattling windows, 8. Slates are falling from the roof, 9. I dread to think what a 12, hurricane, would feel like.

Today, a strong breeze is forecast, building this morning with sharp rain showers. There is a yellow wind warning with gusts up to 40mph in exposed places  I stay in watching my holly and yew bending outside the window

By afternoon, the wind is stronger, but the rain has passed. Time to wrap up and get out for one of my 52 Walks. I try the back garden first. Tree branches are waving violently at times, with a ‘whooshing’ rather than ‘rustling’ sound, as there are no leaves on the trees. Quite hypnotic.

On the street, the wind is strong enough to buffet me, and with one arm in a sling, I feel somewhat vulnerable. But striding out confidently with the wind at my back Imake good time to the supermarket. Being Britain, all the talk in the shop is of the wind.

Returning by a longer route, I feel the full force of the wind through my body as well as on my face. Any hat would be in danger of taking flight. Indeed, paper litter is being blown in eddies around the streets. I look up at the fells and imagine how exhilarating it would be up there.

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  Today is just one of my local walks, but I do feel very refreshed even from this short exposure to the wind. In the past, I have had my fair share of gale-force walks and camps.

As a greenhorn backpacker on the early Pennine Way in the sixties, pre-Wainwright’s Guide of 1968, I had reached the Northern Pennines and was camped high on Knock Fell. The inevitable happened in the night as the notorious Helm Wind did its best to blow me and my tent into oblivion. I remember I was scared, and at first light packed up and braved the roaring gale back down to Dufton. I reached the pub to phone home and arrange a rescue. The locals in the bar were impressed that my tent, a cotton Black’s Tinker, had stood up to the force; it can blow at 100mph.

Still young and foolish, we set off to walk the Kentmere horseshoe one winter when gale-force winds were forecast. I’m sure there was probably a warning to stay off the hills; there certainly would be these days. The fells were covered in ice and snow, but we were equipped with crampons and ice axes. At the top of Garburn Pass, we started on the ridge to Yoke. The wind became fiercer as we gained height. The ridge is very exposed, and we had difficulty keeping on our feet. Any fall onto the icy surface had us being blown along horizontally towards the steep drop into Kentmere. Ice axes were needed to prevent us from disappearing. I have no idea why we didn’t turn back, but I vaguely remember enjoying the challenge. We reached the imposing Thornthwaite Beacon, where there was some shelter from the westerly. At least we could almost hear ourselves discuss our escape plan. There was no possibility of continuing the horseshoe over Kentmere Pike. There are not many easy ways off the ridge at the head of Kentmere in winter, and reading the map was impossible. To add to our problems, we were now in a whiteout. We needed to get down to  Nan Beild pass, where there is a stone shelter and an easy way off the fells. On a compass bearing, we were literally blown down towards it, but a few degrees out, and we found ourselves descending on very steep ground. Fortunately, a break in the clouds revealed Blea Tarn directly below, and we realised our mistake before committing to dangerous territory. With relief, we changed course and reached the shelter at the pass, from which we could slowly descend out of the worst of the wind, battered physically and mentally by the experience. There was no other person to be seen out that day.

My latest memorable experience of gales was on our high-level traverse of the Pyrenees. Having crossed over from an icy France to sunny Spain, we were enjoying a high camp just off the ridge at about 2,500m, sitting around watching the sunset and distant peaks. We were unaware that a deep low-pressure system was approaching from the west. The lightning strike on the ridge above woke us in the early hours. Deafening thunder, a gale-force wind, and torrential rain followed. We battened down, dressed and packed rucksacks for an emergency exit. We must have been in the eye of the storm, as there was no respite for about two hours. We didn’t expect the tent to survive; it is still torn where we were hanging onto its flaps. Our plan was to escape down the valley to Torla in the morning and lick our wounds. But dawn broke without any further damage, and we headed to the Goriz refuge for sustenance. All in a day’s mountain travel.

So much for taking a windy walk.

 

UNDER THE HOWGILLS.

More of the Lune. 

  November 1981. Day four of our Dales Way walk. We had started in Ilkley as a threesome, but by the time we arrived, via a long day to Grassington, into Kettlewell, we were down to two. An excessive night at the George in Hubberholme, when we couldn’t find the tent, didn’t slow us up. I can’t recall where we camped in Dent. The next afternoon, we diverted into Sedbergh for beer and chips before joining the Lune. I remember well our camp later that day in the meadows just before the Crook of Lune Bridge.  Our sleeping bags weren’t up to the freezing temperatures we experienced that night.

We made it to Windermere. But I don’t remember walking under the Lowgill Viaduct. I’m back here today for a walk down the Lune and beyond.

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    The journey up the motorway goes well, I am trying to make the most of a rare good January day. The Howgills look even more attractive than usual in the low sunshine as I swish down the road past the ‘Black Horse’ towards Sedbergh. But today I take the lane signed Waterside and Firbank up the Lune Valley. I stop to take photos of the Waterside viaduct, which carried the Ingleton Branch railway line.

I eventually park under the Lowgill Viaduct, which carried the same line. onwards to Tebay, where it merged with what is now the Main West Coast Line.

The Ingleton to Tebay line, the Ingleton Branch, was built in the early 1860s by the North Western Railway as a link for them to Scotland. This never worked, and it remained a quiet branch line linking towns and villages in the Lune Valley.   It finally closed in 1964, but its structures and trackbed are still very visible in the valley today.

I’m inspired by the eleven-arched viaduct above me. What a climbing wall could be established on one of those stone arches.

  I walk down the lane, past the attractive Pool House, to the Crook of Lune Bridge. Not be confused with the Crook of Lune bridge painted by Turner further down the river at Caton. The one I cross today is a narrow, arched C16th stone bridge. Oh, and by the way, this Lowgill shouldn’t be confused with the one at the base of the Tatham Fells.

From the bridge, I look upstream towards the shapely Howgills, and downstream with Firbank Fell in the background, I will be up the latter on my return leg. It’s a day of views despite not really climbing anything higher than 1000ft.

That’s a slow start, but I’m soon in the fields bordering the River Lune, where we camped all those years ago. How come I don’t remember the viaduct?

The Dales Way is a popular route, and the path is clear, though rougher than I expected. This may be due to erosion from flooding; there is a section where the narrow trod has been bolstered with wooden boarding.

I’m walking into the low sun, so some of my photos are looking back. In places, the river rushes along, but in others it seems to be at a standstill, which I notice has a very calming effect upon me. One can imagine sitting here quietly for hours.

I arrive at Hole House with its joining arch, which I’ve been through not that long ago. *

Time for the obligatory snowdrop and catkin photos.

Leaving the Dales Way, the river is crossed via a wooden footbridge and begin a steep 700ft climb up the otherside.

Stopping for breath at the abandoned rail track of the Ingleton Branch. I wonder whether one could follow it back to Lowgill. Wouldn’t it make a wonderful cycleway from Sedbergh?

My next rest stop is at Goodies Farmhouse, where I reach the road. The views back to the Howgills are becoming more impressive as height is gained.

There is more height to be climbed along the semi-enclosed bridleway, then onto open moorland.

At last, the top road is reached, and the stile is used as my picnic bench.

Just along the road in the wrong direction is Fox’s Pulpit and a small graveyard. I visited here a couple of years ago. *  Then the Howgills were in cloud, but today are spread out in full Cinemascope.

The lane leads to my highest point of the day, a mere 304m, a smidgem under 1000ft, but exhilarating in the windless blue sky. I walk on, soaking up the views. The M6 motorway and the main railway line can be seen sneaking through the gap to Tebay.

The Lakeland hills are over there somewhere beyond the Tebay Borrowdale. Kidsty Pike is always the prominent one in the East.

 

 

A slanty sign shows the way down the fields. Some awkward stiles to be surmounted. After crossing this one, I slide off the boards into the stream, fortunately staying upright.

The path eventually drops steeply down towards Lowgill, offering a bird’s-eye view of the valley.

I finish on the road alongside those eleven arches.

A grand five mikes.

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  Several drone videos of the viaduct are available online.

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  I noticed a small turreted church by the roadside as I drove in this morning. I have time to stop and look around on the way home. St John the Evangelist’s Church, Firbank, built in 1842.

It looks as though a spring visit is called for…

 

 

A NEW YEAR – A NEW WALK AT LAST.

Slow walking in Uldale.

  Driving up the M6 from Preston is always busy and often an accident blackspot, but suddenly, after junction 36, the road empties and all is peaceful with fewer lorries. I’m heading for junction 37, the one with an abrupt stop up the hill and no roundabout. This junction gives access to the Western part of the Lakes, as well as to the Howgills and the hills around Dent, now called the Western Yorkshire Dales National Park, even though they are now mainly in Cumbria. Historically, both Sedbergh and Dent were in the West Riding of Yorkshire until 1974, so maybe there is some logic in the naming. Dent certainly feels like a Yorkshire Dales village. The road winds down to Sedbergh and gives an intimate view into the heart of the Howgills, which sets the pulse going.

  Since some friends of mine moved into Dentdale a few years ago, this has been a regular trip for me, particularly in the last three years when we were busy developing a climbing area, Blackbed Scar, on Wild Boar Fell. Today I have a gentler walk in mind, the first of the year, really, due to other circumstances. I’ve read about the waterfalls on the River Rawthey in hidden Uldale, but never explored them. A good enough reason to travel north to the hills, but stay low on a dry day with cold winds. I find that Metcheck often gives the more accurate local forecast. *

  I’ve taken a book off my shelves for another appraisal—52 WAYS TO WALK, by Annabel Streets.

  Each week, it suggests, one week at a time, different themes and ideas to keep your walks varied. There is a lot of dubious science incorporated, which is probably why it was relegated to my shelves. But we all recognise the physical and mental benefits of walking, so there is no harm in varying our routines. Time to start a new year with a weekly chapter from the book. We are already into the 4th week of 2026, so I can skip the first three chapters: Walk in the Cold, Improve Your Gait. and Walk, Smile, Greet. I feel I have covered those in my daily walk around the corner to the shops. So this week’s chapter comes up with Just One Slow Walk. She controversially suggests that long, slow walks are more beneficial than short, high-intensity periods. Soon to be contradicted in her week 7 chapter – Take a Twelve-Minute Walk. Whatever, I am happy to go along with the slow theme today, having been out hardly at all this year. The main reason, anyhow, is always to reduce your time sitting. 

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  So I find myself parked up at Rawthey Bridge, just north of Cautley, where the river branches off into Uldale. That forecast is partially correct: the air temperature is about 7, but with stronger winds than expected, it feels freezing,  hat and gloves from the set off. 

  There is no path up the initial section of the gorge, so I pick up an unmarked bridleway into the low hills, Bluecaster, to the south west of the river.

  The map shows several fords along the way; I’m expecting wet feet. That doesn’t take long in the waterlogged ground.

  Of course, one tends to visit waterfalls for their full effect after rain, so I can’t complain. Height is gained, and then the valley traversed high above the river, hidden in the wooded depths. All around are familiar fells, Cautley Spout cradled by the Howgills, the back of Wild Boar and distant Nine Standards.

  The sun is in my eyes, ensuring that I manage to step onto as many unseen deep bogs as possible. The theme of Slow is easily followed. 

  In parts, there are signs of stone culverts and banking, suggesting packhorse use long ago. 

  Shake holes remind me I am in Limestone country.

 

  At last, the now vague path levels alongside the rushing river at a footbridge, which gives good views of the first falls upstream. I do wonder what the length of water downstream in the wooded gorge that I have bypassed would have revealed. I am sure someone will have canyoned the whole length. I could cross the bridge and complete my modest circular walk back down the opposite side of the valley, but a faint path continues on this side. The map shows a path that extends another half mile or so to an abandoned quarry, which was no doubt its raison d’être.

  Treading carefully on the slippery limestone, I follow the river past a series of falls over tilted strata. There seem to be some good deep swimming pools along the way.

  My video aims to give a sense of the sounds and sights of the falls. All very dramatic in this lonely valley.

  Reaching the quarry area, the eroded path is forced onto a lip directly above the water. It looks tricky, so I make my excuses and decide, probably sensibly, to turn around and retreat. Further on, the river levels out and then disappears around the corner to more unseen falls. In drier weather and with companions, I would have gone on.

  Later, YouTube shows the gorge becoming inaccessible and drones being used to view the taller falls, so today I made the right decision. But the thought of a summer’s direct exploration up the waters is at the back of my mind.  Of course, Mark Richards has been there more than once.

  Back at the bridge.

I cross over, climb up, bypass Uldale House and wander slowly back along the deserted lanes. 

   The only traffic is the red postie’s van.

  There are some lonely sheep farms up here; at one time, their lives probably didn’t stretch much further than Sedbergh every few weeks.

   This was previously a school, which closed in 1940.

  Dropping back down to Rawthey Bridge, I can trace the boggy start of the walk on the low hillside opposite with Cautley Crag in the background.

  I finish the afternoon warming up and chatting over a pot of tea at my friends’ Dentdale house. Here’s to more slow walking. 

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LIMESTONE PAVEMENTS, FUN, AND FUNGI.

The fun comes at Fairy Steps, which we encounter halfway through the day. This strange slot in the cliff is the scene of many struggles.  Today we are descending, which I think is trickier than climbing up. One enters from the top by a horizontal weakness and then wriggle down the polished slot. Being slim helps. Do you face out or in? I prefer facing in to be able to use the few handholds. Sir Hugh chose the other way. We both take our rucksacs off before the action commences.

Safely down, we read a nearby sign explaining that the cleft was on an ancient coffin route from Arnside to Milnthorpe. The idea that pallbearers could manoeuvre a coffin up this cleft is hard to believe. Supposedly, if you climb or descend the steps without touching the limestone sides of the narrow gully, the fairies will grant you a wish.

No wish today, unfortunately.

I’m late in posting because of other commitments, etc. You can see the day unfold in Sir Hugh’s blog.

A quick look at the weather forecast and a quick phone call to Sir Hugh set us up for a walk today. We park up at the Heron Corn Mill in Beetham, a working water mill on the River Bela that produces flour traditionally. (Open Wednesdays to Sundays, in the summer) We’ve visited several times before, so give it a miss today.

This is another walk in Sir Hugh’s domain. Within 10 yards of leaving the car, he says he has not walked this path. The same comment keeps recurring throughout the short day, but I suspect it is his long-term memory of trudging these paths in years gone by that is creating the ‘confusion’. On the other hand,  I’m certain I have not walked these paths. All bodes well.

Beetham is soon behind us.

We are eager to get into the fields crossing above Beetham Hall with its C14th Pele Tower, a sign of unsettled and war-like conditions that prevailed in the Borders throughout much of the medieval period.  It all looks a bit derelict, but it seems to keep standing.

Limestone squeeze stiles are common on this route, a pretest to Fairy Steps. If you can’t get through this, it’s time to turn around.

A few further stiles and we enter magical woodlands and limestone bluffs. Progress is slow, especially when Fungi spotting takes precedence.

The path wanders through the woods

And then we are onto an extensive limestone pavement. Care is needed to avoid breaking an ankle in one of the grikes as the clints are slippery. Glacial ice sheets scraped away the soil and weathered the rock surface. Over time, the cracks have deepened due to weathering from rainwater. Wonderful.

There is no path as such, but occasionally a waymark post incongruously appears. Should we be even walking on this geological phenomena.

More fungi.

Open tracks and lanes lead us towards Fairy Steps, but it seems to take us ages. Lunch is taken on the shelf above the steps. Once down, we wander through the trees below the limestone mini cliffs. Continue reading

SANDSIDE DISCOVERIES.

 

When is a short walk getting longer? When you combine Sir Hugh with BC.

It needed several phone calls to arrange this short walk, we seem to have developed busy diaries these days. It shouldn’t be like that for happily retired carefree outdoor folk.

I’ve been helping to keep Cicerone Press in business recently, ending up buying two copies of their new Sarsen Way guide and my latest acquisition is 15 Short Walks In Arnside and Silverdale. How can I even suggest to Arnside resident and aficionado, Sir Hugh, a walk on his territory?

Walk 4.  Sandside, Dallam Tower and Haverbrack in the new book looks good and covers some new ground for me. My local guide suggests we don’t park on the roadside at Sandside, the tide often floods this area. I’m happy to take his advice and park higher on the outskirts of Storth. Take note, Cicerone.

Historical photo.

Fishermen are just getting set up on the promenade for the incoming tide of Dabs.

We escape onto a footpath that follows the old railway. This looks interesting.

And it was. An impressive railway* cutting through the limestone of some length. I was distracted by some enticing lines up the rock faces. Sir Hugh tells me there is a geocache up there somewhere.

Under two bridges and out of the cutting we hit the minor road past old warehouses, Sandside was from Elizabethan times a major port, Milnthorpe Port, when ships moored up with the high tide to staves in the estuary. Coal and goods were unloaded and lime, gunpowder, and wool were exported. The old customs house has survived and a warehouse has been upgraded to office space. The warehouse and limekilns are alongside the track. A on my map. When the Arnside viaduct was built in 1857 this trade was cut off. A business park has sprung up along the road and we passed RocknRun where I spent a small fortune in the past,

My first suggested diversion was to seek out Hollins Well. We were able to follow a RofW across fields until we came face to face with a local shoot. They don’t know of the well but Sir Hugh has vague memories of visiting it, so we trespass a little to find it. It wasn’t really much to look at – a small stone trough draining under a wall to a concrete one. B on my map.

Here is a video of Sir Hugh escaping down the trenches…

Backtracking we crossed the road to follow the old railway* embankment. The path information board has dire warnings.

The embankment didn’t go far before we were down on the marsh alongside the River Bela. The viaduct of the railway was taken down in 1963, its remains may be seen either side of the Bela.

Historic Bela Viaduct, Wikipedia.

And its red sandstone blocks scattered around the area.

* Arnside to Hincaster Railway was built in 1876 and closed in 1963. It was built primarily for use by mineral trains carrying coke and iron ore from County Durham to various ironworks in and around Barrow-in-Furness.

From the marsh, we have those wide views across the sands to the limestone escarpment of Whitbarrow Scar, laid down some 350 million years ago, It is difficult to get your head around that timescale and why is it standing proud when all around is eroded?  The noise from the Greyag Geese is deafening from a quarter of a mile away.
Now alongside the Bela River, we approach a fast-flowing weir and in the distance the shapely early C19th turnpike Milnthorpe Bridge. All very photogenic.
We don’t cross the bridge but enter the grounds of Dallam Tower and follow the river upstream to the C18th footbridge, built as the crossing on the old lane from Milnthorpe to Storth. Lunch is taken on the parapets despite the fact we don’t seem to have walked far.

All around are the signs of autumn in the grand oak, beech and chestnut trees.The English knew how to create a country park.
Within the deer park, a pele tower was built on the site in about 1375 but demolished when the present house was built in 1720–23. But history suggests that there was a Saxon tower or motte on the hill above. On the OS map marked as Earthworks. C. This has been excavated to reveal stone ramparts. It is prominent on the hilltop but we skirt around just below it. Stopping to look at the views, getting one’s breath. There is the bridge over the Bela and there is nearby Milnthorpe, with St. Anthony’s Tower above it..

At the top of the field, we pass through a stylish stile into private lanes with private houses, with private views over to Farleton Fell.
Time for another deviation. On the map close by is The Dog Hole, D. which I can’t pass by. Sir Hugh tells me of the occasion when he found it in 2015 with the help of a local lady. Read his report for more information. https://conradwalks.blogspot.com/2020/05/the-dog-hole-sd-482-802.html

Off we go deep into the forest, there are paths everywhere, whether human or animal we aren’t sure. Limestone craglets cry out for a bit of bouldering. Sir Hugh sniffs the vicinity and strides out ahead to come straight to the site, An old rusting metal winch and the hole itself fenced in next to it.

(That’s not all true – we used GPS on our phones to track it down and escape afterwards) Otherwise, we might still have been in there)

Dropping down out of the woods Sir Hugh remembered an ancient oak in the middle of a field, that same local lady had pointed it out to him. You couldn’t miss it. Without getting up close it looked to be getting on for a thousand years old. E.


A stroll down the village street, good to see they still have a PO/shop. That view across the sands imprinted on my mind.

It had been a warm day and I don’t think I drank enough leading to mild dehydration which unfortunately put me off the rails for the next day.

Check out Sir Hugh’s view of the day – https://conradwalks.blogspot.com/2024/10/bowland-climber-explores-my-stamping.html

PENRITH ANTIQUITIES.

One of the books I bought from Verey’s excellent shop in Pooley Bridge was a guide to stone circles in the Lakes. It transpires there are two circular early bronze age structures right next to the motorway as it passes Penrith. Though not technically stone circles they must be worth looking at. With a bit more delving I find a walk encompassing them as well as Brougham Castle and Hall.

I think I mentioned the base of a medieval cross on land next to where I catch my bus each day. It turns out to be grade II* listed  and described as possibly used as a plague stone  in the C14th.

The Dog Beck, Wetherspoons, where I supped a pint most nights last week also turns out to be an early C19th Grade II listed building. Was it originally an inn?   I’m now able to say my drinking was for historical research purposes.

I have already looked around the remains of Penrith Castle but sadly not explored the old market town more thoroughly. One can’t do everything. But on my last morning I catch the 9 o’clock bus for the last time this trip. I only go a few stops to Eamont Bridge, here I pick up the trail.

King Arthur’s Round Table is marked on the map but the Henge circle is thousands of years older than him. A gateway gives access to the circle in a rough field right next to the road. In fact the road has cut across the northern side of the circle. I wander around trying to take photos that show up the banking.

Across the way is a slip road signed to Mayburgh Henge, I had passed it daily on the bus and noticed a large Millennium Stone on a verge.

From the visit Cumbria site –

This fifty tonne block of granite was transported from Shap quarry, erected here and dedicated on July 2nd 2000 by the Bishop of Penrith at the culmination of the Eden Millennium Festival.
 
The site was chosen because of its association with neighbouring Mayburgh Henge. The granite is 330 million years old, and the Monument is intended to last thousands of years.
 
In a trench round the base are buried about 2,000 small stones decorated mostly by primary school children of Eden and placed there at the dedication service as birthday presents for Jesus’ 2000th birthday.
 
The carved symbols on three sides of the Monument are an Alpha, a Cross with the number 2000, and an Omega. The Alpha and the Omega are the first and last letters of the Greek alphabet and represent the beginning and the end, the past and the future, God the Creator and God the Holy Spirit. The Cross and the 2000 represent the present, 2,000 years of Christianity, and Jesus Christ our Lord alive with us today”

On the side road right next to the motorway was the gate giving access to Mayburgh Henge.

This is a much larger banked circular Henge . The banking is up to 20ft high and is composed of millions of pebbles from the nearby River Lowther.One only sees the large central standing stone once on the banking or from the eastern entrance.

Looking at older documents there were four standing stones in place in the C18th. It is thought that these henges, there was a smaller one close by, were possibly meeting places or Neolithic ceremonial centres. It is difficult to appreciate their size and shape on the ground, aerial photos are needed.

Visit Cumbria’s image.

I cross the River Eamont not on the grade1 listed late medieval structure, but by the utilitarian metal foot bridge alongside.

A pleasant interlude of walking alongside the river follows. At one point I spot the abutments of a footbridge across the Eamont, has it been washed away in recent times?

Up ahead I catch the first glimpses of Brougham Castle. bruam is the local pronunciation. The castle was founded in the early 13th century. The site, near the confluence of the rivers Eamont and Lowther, had been previously chosen by the Romans for a fort called Brocavum. It has a long and convoluted history.  Lady Anne Clifford who inherited it, along with a string of other castles in the area that she had  refurbished, died at Brougham Castle in 1676. I only gaze at the remains across the river as I don’t have time for a lengthy visit. It shows off the local red sandstone.

I almost forget to look for the Roman Fort on the same site and my photographs are not that convincing of its foundations.

Not far along the lane is the entrance to Brougham Hall, a fortified home from the early C14th. Again one can read the history here. Privately owned, its restoration work is slow but some areas have been made habitable. Space is rented off to various artists and potters. One can wander over most of the site and hence get a feel for past living in such spaces. There is an honesty café so I’m able to get my late morning caffeine fix.

Back across the Eamont and I can catch a bus directly to Penrith Station for the train home.

I’ve enjoyed this mini break, reacquainting myself with the Northern Lake District, delving into a bit of history along the way. The weather has been kind to me and my B and B, The Blue Swallow to give them a shout, in Penrith was perfect.

ULLSWATER WAY 4 – THE DALEMAIN LOOP.

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The Marmalade March.
I thought the talk of Marmalade was all a gimmick, but as you will see, it has a serious side.
The 9am bus drops me off in Pooley Bridge as usual. I cross the new bridge and follow the River Eamont downstream. I’m on what is called The Dalemain Loop of the main Ullswater Way. I have driven past Dalemain House many times but never stopped to visit. As part of my walk today, I hope to put that right. Dalemain Historic Mansion & Gardens

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The house opens at 10.30. I make good progress through the fields stopping only to chat to The Lakes National Park worker who is mending a gate fastener. Apparently, it is called a hunting latch. They have been used throughout this week’s walk on traditional wooden gates and are a delight to use. I don’t recall a single ‘modern’ galvanised one.

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At the house I manage to book one of the limited places on the first house tour of the day. Our lady guide is knowledgeable and entertaining. Photography is not allowed in the house. She tells us of the history of the house and the families who have owned it, It has been the family home to the Hasells since 1679. bringing us up to date with the present Hasell family, Robert and Jane Hasell-McCosh. Each room is full of portraits, collectables, and personal paraphernalia, with a story behind each one. Fascinating.

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From their website.

Time for a coffee and cake back in the tearoom. My ginger cake is glazed with Marmalade and the room full of jars containing exotic varieties of the preserve. ‘The World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival’ is held here annually in March. The story goes back 20 years, just after a serious outbreak of Foot and Mouth disease, which seriously affected this region. Jane the lady of the house decided on a local Marmalade competition, only a few dozen entered. Now, this has grown to thousands with money raised going to a local charity hospice, and the winner has their recipe marketed by Fortnum and Masons. I don’t think a jar of Marmalade would last long in my rucksack.P1090455P1090413

I spend some time looking around the extensive gardens, a bit late in the season to see it at its best, but there is still so much to admire. Terraces, knot garden, wild areas, massive Silver Fir, Sleeping Giant, Dragon Yew, beck side. All surrounded by the beautiful Cumbrian scenery.  P1090457

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Wow! that is some garden. Back outside I march on through their estate towards the village of Dacre. The rebuilt peel tower, ahead of me up the hill, belongs to the estate but is now a private dwelling.. The surrounding moat could just be made out. P1090527P1090526P1090531P1090533

There are a few cottages scattered around the village green, where the original stocks still stand. Up the lane is a welcoming looking Inn, The Horse and Farrier.

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I want to visit the church that has close connections with Dalemain House and its occupants. All the Hasell family being buried here. I fail to find their graves in the extensive burial grounds. But I do find three of the four stone ‘bears’ thought to be warding off evil spirits. I’m not sure of their antiquity or purpose.

The church is open, so I’m able to see the superb William Whitelaw stained glass. A piece of a Saxon cross is propped up in the chancel.

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Lanes go over a brow with the familiar views of Dunmalland and the hills at the head of Ullswater. Soon, I’m traversing a path within Dunmalland’s forest, I still haven’t seen a red squirrel on this trip.

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Back in Pooley Bridge, I make my pilgrimage to Verey’s for a browse at their books and an excellent coffee whilst waiting for the bus.
Before you know it, I’m relaxing in Witherspoon’s with a pint of Ennerdale Darkest, looking back over a long loop but another successful day.

ULLSWATER WAY 3 –  HOWTOWN TO POOLEY BRIDGE.

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The lower path.

On the way to the steamer I pass a walled terrace with the Birkett Memorial, it could have all been so different.

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The Lady of the Lake, launched in 1877, glides into the jetty at Pooley Bridge. An enthusiastic crowd buoyed by the perfect weather climb aboard.  The lake is mirror calm. Only a handful disembark at the Howtown jetty and all disappear into the surroundings.

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I go in search of The Howtown Hotel, which I used to frequent when we holidayed here with our young children.  Sadly, it is closed. But there is a nearby tea room  They tell me that the hotel may be booked in its entirety only, eight rooms.  Maybe a place for a family and friends celebration weekend! They have a lovely view from the garden.

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Anyway, I enjoy my coffee and get into conversation with a couple of cyclists from the North East. One always comes across a lot of northeasterners in this part of the Lakes . I meet more as the day goes on, all very friendly.

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It’s time to get walking . I’m already off route at the café so just follow the road up the hill to join the bridleway, traversing the fell side at about 200m under Bonscale Pike. I have to keep stopping to take in the views of familiar hills across Ullswater, especially up to the head of the lake. I watch the steamers and boats coming and going into Howtown Bay. What an idyllic setting. 

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The Ullswater Way comes up to join the track I’m on, and I pick up the daffodil waymarks. It was on the shores of Ullswater that Wordsworth apparently saw the daffodils that inspired his well-known poem.

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Shortly after, I’m faced with a choice – a higher route visiting the stone circle up on  Askham Fell or a lower route above the lake. I was around the antiquities before so I don’t feel guilty about choosing the lower route. Dunmallard at Pooley Bridge is getting closer, Sharrow Bay is down there somewhere, its famous hotel being refurbished at present.. One last look from ahigh up the lake.

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Now mainly through fields. There are a lot of very muddy sections, even at this time of year. A few farmhouses and derelict barns are passed on the way, I spot a chicken of the woods.

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Now, down on the road, I come to the entrance to Waterside House Camp Site. A massive endeavour. It is fairly busy with all sorts of campers, the attraction being its lake shore access. Paddle boarding seems to be the most popular pastime on the water.

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Dog walkers are out from Pooley Bridge, and for the last half mile, there is litter, which hasn’t been a problem elsewhere. The holiday atmosphere ramps up a notch.

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I’m early, so escape into the relative normality of  the Verey bookshop who also serve good coffee whilst I’m waiting for the bus back to Penrith. I resist book buying to a single one but make a mental note of lots more to seek out.

My after walk pint in The Dog Beck back in Penrith is an excellent Eden River Brew Co. Emperor IPA. Looking at the guide book I’m not finished with the Ullswater Way yet.

***

Screenshot 2024-09-09 052438

ULLSWATER WAY 2 – AIRA FORCE TO HOWTOWN?

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The difficult stretch, but I do it in reverse.

We used to camp in Patterdale at Side Farm before the children were born, I have memories of a stressful walk with my wife. We had already climbed the hills behind the farm, Place Fell?, and ended up in Howtown for a meal and drink at the hotel. I dismissed her idea of catching the steamer back suggesting it would be a lovely walk back along the shores of Ullswater. Hours later we staggered back into camp. the way had been rough and difficult, seemed never ending and had tried our tempers. This was at the back of mind for this same section today. If I was slow could I end up in Howtown after the last steamer had departed? People with electric cars have developed ‘battery anxiety’ I was having steamer anxiety. So lets be safe – catch the steamer over to Howtown first and walk to Glenridding where there are frequent buses at the end of the day. That is why I’m queuing for the first steamer of the day, the Western Belle, leaving Pooley Bridge. What a contrast to  yesterday,  a wet and windy crossing  to Howtown.

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Dunmallard and Pooley Bridge disappearing into the gloom.


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Approaching Howtown with Waternook under Hallin Fell.

I head to the tea room for a coffee, alas too early – they are closed, as is the Hotel. I walk back down to the bay and pick up the Ullswater Way.

The path climbs above the white property of Waternook, which must have splendid views. 

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Open land covered in gorse follows before descending to the diminutive Geordie’s Crag. Outward Bound students are learning abseiling and being encouraged to jump from a height into the lake. No doubt all good fun.

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The landward side of Geordie’s Crag. 


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The steep jumping side.

The next section through the trees is difficult, rocky ground and an indistinct path on the steep slopes of Hallin Fell. Up and down to rocky bays. There are no daffodil waymarks to be seen. I miss the ‘poetry stones ‘ or rather I forget to look for them. As I come out of the woods, the views down the lake improve dramatically, coinciding with the day brightening up.

The holiday cottages at Beckside Farm, above Sandwich Bay, look idyllic for a secret getaway. More climbing and rocky terrain ensue, setting a pattern for the day.

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I am hoping the tea room in Lowther Barn will be in operation, but sadly not. I do, however, make use of their picnic area for my lunch. It’s a good spot to watch the steamers go by with yesterday’s Gowbarrow as a backdrop. 

Through the bracken, the path remains rocky, with Scalehow Force coming down from the slopes of High Dodd.

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Back into the woods, silver birch and oak. There are more people about now coming out of Patterdale, dog walkers, mainly.

I’ve turned a corner and have a differed view southwards down the lake to Glenridding with the Helvellyn range ahead. A rocky bluff  is a favourite viewpoint.  A lady is sketching the scene, far more creative than my point and shoot camera work.  Though she does complain about the ever changing light.

There is always some activity on the lake.

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A few more ups and downs, ins and outs, well a lot more actually, and I spot an ‘art’ installation, I haven’t done well with these so far. I’m not sure of its value artistically, basically just a plaque to tell you of the painters who found inspiration here. Also in the vicinity are some more of those posts with QR codes linking you to a painting of the scene in front of you. They seem a good idea but I struggled to get them to work. To browse these paintings look here https://www.ullswaterheritage.org/heritage-knowledge-bank/inspired-by-ullswater/virtual-art-gallery

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By now I reach the basic Side Farm camp site which I mentioned in my introduction. It is on the shore facing across the lake to the landing stages at Glenridding. What a great situation. The farm now has a tearoom, I can’t go past without visiting. I enjoy a pot chatting to a couple originally from Preston.

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Refreshed I walk into Glenridding where I could catch my bus bit it is a beautiful afternoon so I decide to walk on along the lake shore and catch the 5 o’clock bus at Aira Force .  The way is close to the road but mostly in pleasant woodland close on the lake.

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Halfway I come across a stone fold with a young oak growing inside it, Taking the Long View, one of three in Cumbria by artists Harriet and Rob Frazer highlighting the value of trees.

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But look across the fields and you see this magnificent tree…

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I arrive with time to spare but on reading the timetable more carefully realise the school holidays are over and the buses are every two hours. I have an hour and a half to ‘waste’. The café is closed, I wander down to the boat pier and realise there is a boat going back to Glenridding. It’s a lovely evening for the short  cruise on Lady Dorothy rather than sitting waiting for the bus. Its a magic evening.

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But I’ve kept you long enough, time to get the bus back to Penrith.  Wetherspoon’s, The Dog Beck, is too handy when I alight, so I pop in for a relaxing pint of Eden Black, from the Eden River Brew Co, to contemplate the very successful day sat in an easy chair in the corner.

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Sorry that this has been back to front if you are following The Ullswater Way the usual anticlockwise.

***

Screenshot 2024-09-09 053036

ULLSWATER WAY 1 – POOLEY BRIDGE TO AIRA FORCE.

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I climb a Wainwright, the first for years.

On the nine o’clock bus out of Penrith, into Pooley Bridge in no time. My plan to use public transport seems to be working. All I have to do now is walk. It’s a scorcher of a day, so I will take things easy, there’s a lot of ups and downs to come. already the café alongside the river is busy.

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I read the stone and cross the new bridge over the River Eamont.

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Signs send me into the woods below tree shrouded Dunmallard. Last up there when ‘doing’ Wainwright’s Outlying Fells way back in 2016 when the temporary bridge was in place. https://bowlandclimber.com/2016/04/01/wainwright-outliers-get-your-five-a-day/

The waymarks have a daffodil theme, it was on the shores of Ullswater that Wordsworth apparently saw the daffodils that inspired his well-known poem.

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A short stretch by the road at first in the trees, then in the open with shapely Salmond’s Hill ahead and then I’m heading across fields on a well-used path towards Waterfoot Park. A large caravan site around an old mansion.

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I follow one of their estate roads and then start climbing  up to Maiden Castle, marked on the map but nothing to see on the ground.

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There are good views back to Dunmallard and ahead to open country around Ullswater. The high hills are in the haze.

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I come out onto a road next to a farm with a pet Macaw, i didn’t see him. Farther on in one of their fields is a ‘tuck shop’ with drinks and snacks for sale using an honesty box, well actually a pot rooster. The day is already very hot so I buy a can to supplement my water supply and enjoy their bench with a view as I drink it.

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Downhill I join a road through the hamlet of Bennethead.

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The guide warns of muddy fields ahead, but they are fine today. Even the animals appear to have heat stroke.

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Watermillock, or is it Longthwaite, a dozen houses at the most, but I make a short diversion to visit the church. A squat sandstone building surrounded by yew trees, one reputably dating back to the C16th, I think I find it. The inside of the church is cool and calm. Stained glass windows honour previous notaries. There are lots of little interesting historical details. I sit on one of their benches in the shade and have an early lunch before all the climbing to come

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Back on track, the heat is intensifying, and there is little breeze. I pass below Priest’s Crag and follow the path through the bracken. Entering Swinburn’s Park plantation. I’m on the lookout for Herdwick Stones, celebrating the sheep associated with the Lakes. The Herdwick sheep is the native breed of the Lake District, championed by Beatrix Potter. They are thought to have been brought to this country by Norse settlers over 1000 years ago. There are carved stones, created by letter carver Charlotte Ruse, with the shepherd counting numbers depicted. yan, tyan, tethera.  I only find two of them.

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Whilst I’m in the trees, I stop for some chocolate and more water before embarking on the climb up Gowbarrow. I’m finding it hard going in the heat and humidity. The Ullswater Way has a choice here, follow a level terraced path around to Aira Force or climb up over the summit of Gowbarrow 481m.

Despite my lethargy, I opt for the summit for it’s 360degree views. I start meeting people for the first time today as they descend on what is a popular short circuit. The last few feet need hands on the rock. There is a trig point for all those selfies. I sit quietly on a nearby boulder drinking even more water. The views are disappointedly hazy, not surprising given the conditions.

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It’s a lie.

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This is what the view could look like on a better day, from the web site. Screenshot 2024-09-10 212350

Coming downhill towards Dockray is again steep and stony, needing care.

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I arrive at the top falls of Aira Force, which most people don’t climb far enough up to see. There is plenty of water to give a decent display. Paths go off in all directions, some getting close to the edge depending on how brave you are feeling. 

The main fall is one long drop with a couple of viewing bridges across the narrow chasm. Despite all the tourists milling around, the falls are indeed very dramatic. Well worth a visit.

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I find a new way down which keeps close to the water below, The Sika Spruce route. It’s name becomes obvious at the end where there is enormous Spruce, hundreds of years old no doubt.

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Aira Beck, mow tamed, runs off down to the lake. The café is closed, but there is a tap for rehydration. I just wander down to the bus stop to await transport back to Penrith. I’m feeling rather tired with all the exertion in the heat, one of the hottest days of the summer, Sept 5th.

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***

Screenshot 2024-09-05 052028

ULLSWATER WAY – PRELUDE.

Penrith to Pooley Bridge, The Eamont Way.

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The Eamont Way was designated and signed recently, 2023. It leads directly from the front of Penrith rail station, giving a pedestrian route to Pooley Bridge. What an excellent start to reach The Ullswater Way. https://www.ullswaterheritage.org/eamont-way

Rain is in the air from early this morning as I walk to catch the bus to Preston.  The Glasgow train is on time, and I’m in Penrith just after 11 am. There was not much to see on the way up.

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After a look around the castle, a coffee from the outside kiosk, and a bit of faffing whilst it poured down, I’m ready to leave by midday. Welcome to the Lakes.

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There is a map of the route on the wall of the station. The waymarks depict an eel, more on that later at Pooley Bridge.

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So I’m on the lookout for an eel as I leave the station forecourt. And sure enough, there is one on nearly every lamppost along the busy road.

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The guide mentions  Macdonald’s as a café, but there is a proper one down the road on the route.

The motorway passes close by Penrith, and there is a maze of slip roads and roundabouts. Not the calmest start to a Lakeland walk .

But after less than a mile, the way enters the countryside and the sound of traffic recedes.

Under the railway main lines via a couple of atmospheric arched brick tunnels and onto bridleways and quiet lanes. There are no distant views in this weather. I catch a glimpse of the River Eamont over to my left and am soon crossing it on a substantial footbridge.  It is running full with all the rain.

I come into the little hamlet of Sockbridge. A miniature village green provides a bench for lunch.  These are mainly simple cottages, but a larger property stands out. Wordsworth’s House, built in 1699 and occupied by William’s grandfather, Richard, in the late C18th.The first owners, Reginald and Elizabeth Dobson, have their initials (RED) carved over the door. Their granddaughter, a Mrs Collingwood, sold the house to Richard Wordsworth.

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What a charming hamlet, worth exploring further, there is a trail including Sockbridge and Tirril.

Quaker Lane leads out of the village. There is a Quaker burial ground in nearby Tirril. Charles Gough, who died on Helvellyn in 1805, is buried there.  His dog was said to have stayed by his dead master for several weeks. Charles Gough (artist) – Wikipedia

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The bridleway brings me onto the main road, which the Eamont Way follows for some distance. I pass the Gothic Kirkbarrow Hall, now a dairy farm.

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When the footway runs out I have other ideas and want to visit the parish church of St. Michael’s at Barton. So I turn up the next bylane.

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An ornate Lynch Gate, a WW1 memorial, leads into the churchyard surrounding the squat church itself.  The Church has Norman origins, but only the central nave remains from that period. The inside is dark and low, with the central tower splitting the aisle. Many tombstones are old, and I know are listed, but it is difficult to decipher them.

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Curiosity sated I walk farther up the lane towards Barton Church Farm. A public right of way goes through the farmyard past Glebe House and then right through buildings via an archway. (Both are grade II listed). I have a feeling they would prefer it didn’t, and this may be why the Eamont Way doesn’t come on this otherwise historic route. Why would the Eamont Way go down a busy road with no footway? I suspect some C21st skullduggery at play.

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Glebe House 1637

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Barton Church Farmhouse C16th

More open fields now, with limited views westwards towards Ullswater, a smart bridleway, and then open fell with wooded Dunmallard Hill above Pooley Bridge prominent.

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A crowded ‘green holiday village’ is passed. Not my idea of the countryside.

I pass some ‘Inspired by art’ posts placed at the viewpoint used by previous artists. The QR code supposed to reveal the original painting, a good idea, but I fail to get it to work on my phone.

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Some grand tree lined slopes, and I’m suddenly in the crowded Pooley Bridge village. Pubs , cafés and gift shops vying for the throng’s trade.

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I stand below the famous fishing wind vane in front of the Crown Inn and read of the history and connection to the eel waymarks.

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Pooley Bridge had a weekly fish market until the C19th. In the 12th century a charter was granted by King John to hold a fish market in Pooley Village square in front of what is now the Crown Inn. It continued into the C19th. In the summer months large numbers of eel were caught and sold in the area. A market cross with a fish and weather vane, similar to the one you see today, was erected. It stood near its current site, was repaired by Lord Dacre in the 1680s but was removed in 1890s to allow a turning space for the omnibuses bringing visitors to Ullswater. The current Market Cross was erected by Barton Parish Council in 2000 to commemorate the granting of the charter and as a reminder of the village’s fishing origins. The Coats of Arms of the Dacre family and the Hasells of Dalemain are inscribed on the north and south faces of the Cross to acknowledge their historical attachment to the ancient Parish of Barton.

***

I’m not staying here, hotels are busy and very expensive, so I board the crowded 508 bus and whizz back to Penrith. My B and B, The Blue Swallow, seems excellent with friendly proprietors.  It’s good to get out of my wet garments. Let’s look at the weather forecast for tomorrow.

***

Screenshot 2024-09-07 171130

THE ULLSWATER WAY AND MORE.

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Whilst I have a free week, away from mainly medical appointments, I intend to look around another walk I’ve had on the back boiler for awhile, The Ullswater Way. I bought the Mark Richard’s guide in 2022. The 20 or 22 mile, depending where you look, walk was launched after the devastating floods of Storm Desmond, which badly effected Pooley bridge and Patterdale in 2015, to attract walkers back to the area. As if the Lakes need any publicity. P1080793

As is usual nowadays there is a dedicated website with lots of information before you set off.   The Ullswater Way | 20 Mile Ullswater Walking Route.

Even more background information is found on the excellent Friends of the Ullswater Way (ullswaterheritage.org) site.

This is their introduction – Welcome to the Ullswater Way, a 22 mile walking route that circumnavigates the lake through a spectacular landscape rich in history and cultural heritage. It is divided into 4 sections, each served by the Ullswater Steamers.  Some people walk the whole Ullswater Way in a day but many prefer to walk the 4 sections separately, beginning or ending the day with a cruise on the Steamer. There are Steamer piers at Glenridding, Pooley Bridge, Howtown and Aira Force” 

Some friends of mine walked, for charity I may add, the whole route in a day and found it gruelling. My gruelling days, I hope, are confined to history. Other options opened up for me as the above suggests. My plan is to walk from Pooley Bridge to Aira Force, possibly on to Glenridding or more probably enjoy a short trip on the steamer there. The day after walk from Glenridding to Howtown and escape by steamer and completing the circle the next day walking from Howtown to Pooley Bridge. Three days for the way.

Screenshot 2024-08-28 101753Even more options – Dalemain (5 miles) and Lowther (7miles) loops from Pooley Bridge. And there is a new link from Penrith to Pooley Bridge, the grandly named Eamont Way, all 5.5 miles of it.  A separate Heritage trail of sculptures is to be explored along the way. There are also some important archeological sites close to Penrith. A plan is taking shape. This is becoming a week’s holiday.

The cost of hotels in the Lake District is exorbitant, especially for a single traveller – typically £150 – £200 a night. What happened to all the economical Youth Hostels of my past, when youngsters could explore Britain’s wonderful countryside in their holidays? We have changed and lost so much. Grumbles aside I decide against a place to place expensive  backpack and book a reasonable priced and highly recommended  B and B in the lovely town of Penrith. I can use the train to reach there and onwards use the regular 508 bus service to Windermere serving all the Ullswater destinations. The Ullswater Steamers will come into my equation at some stage. Feeling smugly green about my transport plans.

This time I make sure in advance that the new cattery can look after Seth for a week, he enjoyed his last holiday with them.

I’m looking forward to another week away to give some balance to my life. The forecast so far looks good. I’ve booked my return rail ticket to Penrith, £16 seems a bargain. It is always good to do without the car.

SEA SWALLOWS AND SHIPWRECKS.

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This may take some time to write up and to read. I completed the short cycle ride on a frosty January 18th. 2024.

How many times have I cycled down the seafront from Fleetwood to Blackpool?  How many times have I later flown past, with the wind behind me, the several pieces of artwork without realising their significance? The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the wind. A song still appropriate to the present troubles of our world and my wanderings.

Grab a coffee, relax, listen and read on.

I aim to put that right today. I have done a little research on the Cleveleys website. Over recent years the sea defence improvements at Rossall and Cleveleys have provided a wonderful promenade, a leisure amenity alongside the coast popular with walkers and cyclists. At the same time funding was secured by Wyre Council through Sea Change, a national fund designed to regenerate the coast through the Arts.

This gave rise to Cleveleys Mythic Coastline art work following the story of The Sea Swallow  A children’s fairytale, written by Gareth Thompson and illustrated by Hannah McGee, it blends legends with local features. Each primary school child in Wyre was given a copy of the book in 2011. (I need to find out if any copies are still available – just this minute ordered ordered one from ABE Books.) The book tells of the epic story of land versus sea and uses old fables from this stretch of the Fylde coast with the sea swallows protecting it. A tale of an Ogre stirring up the sea with his giant paddle, threatening the waterfront community, only to be thwarted by the story’s heroine, Mary and her golden shell.   Mary is granted the ability to journey to the seabed for an encounter with the sea-ogre, who covets the shell and threatens her village with inundation. I need to read the book to find out the hopefully favourable outcome. The story and pictures from the book have been the basis for the public artwork subsequently installed along the seafront. 

***

To set the scene:  I unload my bike as usual near the delightful ‘Welcome Home’ statue on the front at Fleetwood and pedal off in the freezing temperatures, my hands rapidly becoming numb. There are patches of ice along the promenade and the beach is frozen solid. The tide is farther out than I’ve seen it before and one can imagine the difficulties of navigating into the mouth of the Wyre and Fleetwood’s docks. Out to sea the Isle of Man ferry is heading to Heysham whilst a couple of freighters are leaving, with the back drop of Barrow, Black Coombe and the snowy Lakeland hills.P1020491

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Once  past the toppling coast watchers and round Rossall Point I’m onto the new tiered promenades of Rossall’s sea defences with concrete walls showing wavy themes in relief. P1020521P1020547P1020543

Along here are three art installations I’ve not bothered to examine before. Each one consists of three slender arching columns, grass-like, decorated with a floral theme. Ragwort,  Sea Holly and Sea Spurrey and their animal dependents, Cinnabar Moth, Red Tailed Buff Bee and Common Toad respectively. I can find little information on them, but obviously, they reflect coastal species. They are sited at access points to the beach for maximum impact; perhaps they are marker posts between here and Cleveleys. P1020529

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It was along here that Sea Swallows started appearing in the back wall and, at the end an impressive larger relief featuring Mary. P1020575P1020581P1020578 I now realise there was another Mary ‘panel’ at the start of the wall farther back –  it gives me an excuse to have another leisurely exploration. 

The main installations of the Mythic Coast are from the storybook – The Shell, The Ogre, The Ogre’s Paddle and The Sea Swallow, and the nearby Shipwreck Memorial. They have all been put together by artists and designers from Broadbent Studio.

First up was Mary’s Shell, a large piece of spiralling metal in a shell shape on the Cleveley beach below the café. Looking through it at low tide is the sea; at high tide, it becomes completely submerged. The complex Conch shell was made from stainless steel in Ulverston, with a blast finish and weighs in at  17 tons. Today, the tide was out, and I could have, should have, gone down the steps to come up close, but with the bike in tow, I was content to view from the promenade.

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The Ogre is easily missed alongside the boulder groyne just south of the Shell. It is in fact a boulder carved to represent the crouching giant. He was hand carved from a single fifteen ton block of limestone by the stonemason Adrian Wright and fittingly submerged for a lot of the time. Today, I was lucky, and he was plain for all to see. Again, I should have gone down onto the beach for a closer look, but as I said a good excuse to return. 

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Can you spot him?

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The Ogre’s Paddle is on the higher promenade, unceremoniously in front of the cinemas and gym. The paddle was constructed in purple heart wood from South America, carved with decorations and text from the story by the woodcarver John Merrill.

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The Sea Swallow monument is right in the middle of the promenade. A 10m tall sculpture, its shape inspired by the feel of a book coming to life and the swallows flying out of it.. The swallows are the town’s protectors, and I now realise are representative of Sea Terns. Just look at that blue sky.

“This feature acts as a visual beacon to draw people from the town centre to the seafront” . The granite was supplied by Hardscape, and the aluminium structure fabricated and installed by Chris Brammall Ltd. of Cumbria.P1020657P1020653P1020680

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‘For at night they stand together on the sea wall, as if protecting the town with their great white wings.’

Illustrations from the book have been carved and blasted into the granite base of the sculpture. “maybe somewhere along the coast, the shell waits for someone to find it again”

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You may have noticed everything is curvy (wavy) on Cleveleys promenade, often practically to soften the force of the waves but more of an ongoing architectural statement. I think it works quite well.P1020713

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The last piece,  the Shipwreck Memorial, stands proudly on the Cleveleys Promenade. A huge piece of iron, 15mm thick, laser cut with the names of lost vessels. It stands 4.5m tall against the sky, supported by two huge solid pieces of timber. The metalwork is slowly rusting, as would have the sunken ships.

It acts as a memorial to all known ships lost along the Fylde since 1643.  It is positioned on the promenade at Cleveleys, adjacent to the site of the most recently lost ship – The Riverdance, which ran aground in 2008 and became a tourist attraction as it slowly lost its cargo and was subsequently dismantled. In the same area the wooden ribs of The Abana, sunk in 1894, still show up at low tide.  Apparently, they can be seen through the disc in the memorial, I should have looked more carefully. 

On the wooden supports are a couple of panels listing all the ships with more information about their wrecking. A sobering list, a huge graveyard of over 200,  The first listed as Unidentified, wrecked near Fleetwood in 1643 having run aground after being set on fire by Loyalists in the Civil War. In more modern times, the Trawler industry suffered disproportionately. A full list of wrecks has been transcribed onto a page on the Cleveleys website.

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A final installation – Coloured Sea Swallows, cast in resin, was planned to sit along the seawall on the Cleveleys promenade. They have been temporarily removed following the unfortunate theft of several of them, and are awaiting re-siting.

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Historical picture.

The Shipwreck Memorial stands on the border between Wyre (Cleveleys) and Blackpool. I’ve gone as far as I want today; it’s time to head back. 

 But first I stop to watch some activity on the beach. They are building more stone groynes to prevent potentially dangerous deep-side channels from developing across the beach. Blocks of stone, Granite from Shap and Limestone from Carnforth, have been ‘dumped’ on the beach. Concrete ramps to allow access along the beach have been built, and they are now starting to carefully place the boulders at right angles to the prom, forming the groynes. Each block weighs between 3 and 8 tons; anything lighter would get washed away in storms. 

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Needless to say, I haven’t seen any Sea Swallows but a cheeky Starling joined me for some lunch. P1020722

Thanks for sticking with me. Maybe listen to Bob again.

***

Screenshot 2024-01-22 201906

 
 
 

 

BLOGLIFE. PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE.

I have enjoyed the year reading all of your adventures. The Lakes, Silverdale, Rivington, Ribble Valley, the Thames Valley, Cheshire, even Manchester, the US of A, Coastal ways, Northumberland. I hold them all dear.

Castles, boutique hotels, camping pods and caravans, village inns, tents in  remote places, wild water swimming.  You have planned your explorations carefully.

Books to read, towns to visit, art to find, food to relish, music for my ears.

Nature in abundance, history documented, environmental comments and political asides.

I’ve enjoyed them all. Thank you.  Sorry mine have been limited in response.

What’s next on the horizon?  I look forward to your posts appearing in my inbox. Ignore  the endless boring and predictable YouTube contents, the obvious uncomfortable selfies and forgettable Facebook pages. No I rely on your intellectual input to keep me sane, grounded and stimulated.  ‘Anonymous’ yet a real group of people sharing their thoughts, interests, desires  and  images. WordPress or Blogger are your platform. You know who you are. Thank you.

Here’s to an illuminating 2024.

FOR WHOM THE BELL TOLLS.

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I have been visiting Morecambe on my ‘off road’ cycle rides for some time now, there is a good network of cycle paths in the Lancaster area. And that is where I am, the only choice – clockwise or anticlockwise? A tossed coin determines my day, simple enough.
Lethargy sets in from the word go – I’ve not been on my bike since that unfortunate episode back at the end of August. It took two months to get my car repaired. My bike has sat in the garage for three months, I gave the front wheel some more air but think the back is OK. I capitulate early on and walk up the ramp to the canal aqueduct. Even on the flat I am struggling to keep up a decent pace and I am very wary of the narrower sections of the towpath under bridges. The water looks very cold. I realise my back wheel is taking the bumps badly, yes it is underinflated. I press on even though I know I should maybe give it some assistance with the hand pump. I’m too lazy to bother. Anyhow the sun is shining and there are few people about, let’s just get on with it. Where have all the ducks gone?
Soon I am on the famous promenade stretching ahead of me for four or five miles. The tide is in and the water lapping up to the sea defences. With the sun shining the cluster of boats, usually seen floundering in the mud, give the impression of a Mediterranean bay. 20231213_121415

As I near the Midland I can here a bell chiming, I instantly know where it is coming from – the Time and Tide Bell on the Stone Jetty. One of several around the coast of Britain. I have documented this bell before and photographed it at different states of the tide, but this is the first time I have heard its ghostly sounds. Makes me think of shipwrecks and sea sirens from the deep. I get up close and feel the vibrations, I try a video just for the sound but of course the wind noise always intrudes. That is why on the telly the reporters have those big fuzzy mikes dangled in front of them.

A couple of ladies walk by. “It must be 12 o’clock the bell is chiming”  “No I think you will find it keeps on chiming” says the other.
I must make the effort one day and dine in the Art Nouveau Rotunda of the Midland. Today I just cycle by and eat a banana on a promenade bench. The sea is perfectly calm.

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I’m always a little wary of a short section of the cycle path past the station and down a dingy alley. I have had a near miss assault there in the past by dodgy characters. Today it is blocked by council workers clearing the ditches and they tell me there is no way through. They agree about the potential danger and explain there are no cameras on that section, a situation easily solved with little cash funding. Anyhow I follow their suggested diversion, which with the aid of my phone’s maps, brings me back onto the cycleway past their work and more importantly past the dodgy section. Thanks for that, I will keep using it in future.
My progress becomes laboured as I pedal the old railway back into Lancaster, over the rattly Millennium Bridge and on alongside the Lune to Halton. 20231213_132515

 My arrival at the car park coincides with the Lancaster University’s rowing club’s Christmas festivities. I hope they all survived their river escapades, I am sure health and safety will keep an eye on the students more than in my day.

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I should have pumped my tyre up way back when. Stubbornness or laziness? More likely stupidity. I was knackered at the end – I thought the bell was tolling for me.

ANYONE FOR SCOUT HILL, LUPTON?

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There aren’t many takers.  At 285m Scout Hill is the 1795th tallest in England. http://www.themountainguide.co.uk.  Not exactly inspiring. But I know a hill when I see one and this one was a prominent feature on the northern horizon when we were last up on Hutton Roof. It can be seen towering, or more accurately peeping, over Farleton Fell in the photo below taken on that day. I did have to look it up later to identify it as Scout Hill The seed was sown.P1010191

Encouraged by last week’s walk with Sir Hugh I plotted an easy route in the Lupton area to include Scout Hill. He thinks he has been up it before, and although I fully believe him details are very vague. He is keen to test his improving health by another easy ascent, surely it can’t make my hip any worse.

Parking is complicated by road works, water pipe installations. It takes me some time to orientate myself amongst the little lanes and the busy A65 flying past with lay-bys full of cars. By then we are through lush green fields and above the lively Lupton Beck. Farleton Fell is there above us, and it remains that way all day. Sir Hugh recognises the lovely footbridge over the waters, and we come out by the Plough pub. What I thought would be an easy ramble by the beck took us much longer than envisaged. We haven’t come far, and perhaps we should have retired to the pub for lunch. P1000083P1000081P1000087P1000088P1000100P1000104

Now up the lane to Crabtree Farm, quite steep in parts. They have diversified into clay pigeon shooting and are busy constructing a holiday park with those ubiquitous Gypsy Caravans, more like road menders huts quips Sir Hugh when he gets his breath back from the ascent. On we go, quite steep in parts. My hip is hurting, but I don’t say anything, there is no turning back. It is a delightful lane.

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Crabtree Lane – Scout Hill is ahead with a tree near the hidden summit.

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Once in the open we are on the slopes of Scout Hill, but there is no sight of its summit Trig. It won’t take us long after leaving the wallside right of way, climbing through the gorse to reach the summit. Should I just nip up and down quickly leaving Sir Hugh down here? No he is having none of that. Should I just let him nip up and down whilst I study the abundant fungi? We plod on. It is a strange fell with bits of ancient walls and little rivulets appearing from nowhere. There is still no sign of the summit, there are supposed to be communication masts up there. It is getting serious when compass bearings are taken and followed.P1000112P1000115

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Not there yet.

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But what’s this? Another wall and descent between us and our rapidly receding trig point. I’m secretly hoping we can’t get across, and we can call the whole thing off. P1000124

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But no, we can squeeze through a gated gap and the summit is ours. It turns out to be a good viewpoint particularly to the hills to the east – Gragareth et al.  If only it was a bit brighter. The Lakes are in clag, and we have some debate as to which is Arnside Knott, Sir Hugh’s local fell. The communication towers are largely ignored. P1000128P1000131

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We squeeze back through the gate and head towards a prominent stone. Standing or not? A good lunch spot nonetheless.

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Back on the right of way we waste no time abandoning it for an attractive path which at the far end proclaims ‘Private No Right of Way’. We are now on metalled lanes wandering across the hillsides, some barely drivable and going we know not where. It’s all downhill from here. Coming across the first person we have seen all day he promptly turns around and walks past us with a brief nod. It’s a strange area. Farelton Fell looms ahead of us.  I am glad when the roadworks come into sight and the little car is there. P1000140

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Felt I had bitten off more than I could happily chew today, just don’t always believe the map, the summit may have moved.

Today was tagged under The Lake District and nearby Lancashire, need a new tag for Cumbria whose borders wander around in this area.

Sir Hugh’s  post will appear in due course.

***  

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A SOUTH LAKELAND RIDGE.

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I smile to myself as I reply to the email from Sir Hugh. He has plotted a walk for us from Cartmel taking into consideration our combined physical failings. I did the same for him on our last walk and his immediate response was ‘we could perhaps extend it farther’ by using some other paths. All turned out well – LEVEL FROM LEVENS. My immediate response this time, without a good deal of thought, is that we could easily extend his proposed route from Cartmel. No more is said until the decision time comes later in the day. Somewhere along the line is a hidden understanding of the other person’s idea of a good walk, I don’t think we have ever crossed that line though we have had some exciting episodes close to it.

What is going on in Cartmel? There are cars parked alonside every road and a one way system in operation. We follow it blindly into the racecourse car park where we had meant to park in the first place. £2 for the day as we scramble to find some change. There is a Medieval Pageant in the village explains the man on the gate. (Subsidised parking with medieval prices, normally £4 for the day or a hefty £10 on race days) 

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Sir Hugh trying to look enthusiastic at the start of the walk.

It takes a bit to orientate ourselves in the massive car park which is filling fast. We are the only ones taking a bearing across the racetrack to enter the woods on the northwest side. Once in the woods the path is not as clear as we had expected but a bit of steep climbing, not Sir Hugh’s favourite at the moment, and we were out onto little lanes and on our way. 

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On your marks. 

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Steeper than it looks.

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On our way.

The little lanes connect up with isolated properties on the hillside – Well Knowe, Hard Crag, Wall Nook, Over Ridge and finally Speel Bank. Each unique in its own way but all bearing the mark of Lakeland vernacular architecture from the C17th- C18th. They all look in good condition in stunning scenery and in the last decade or so most of the outbuildings have become out of the way holiday cottages. Though in a hard winter would be difficult to access.

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Halfway up we come across an agricultural machinery graveyard. Old tractors, strange looking implements, old cars and strangely up here a speed boat, all rotting into the vegetation. We find it a bit spooky and once Sir Hugh mentions some American horror movies it is time to get going. Only just last night I had rewatched Psycho for the first time for years – remember the cars in the pit.

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I then took to photographing the various stiles we squeezed through or climbed over.

A couple of girls pass us brandishing what looked like a well presented leaflet of walks in the area, though their map was somewhat basic for the almost identical walk that Sir Hugh has us on. I will look into finding this publication as we are well impressed with the area so far. We never see them again.

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The ridge is up ahead.

The lane keeps going up past the last farmhouse, which shows no signs of gentrification for the Airbnb set. P1000040

Soon we were onto what I’m calling Ellerside Ridge, volcanic rock outcrops everywhere, we even spot a few bouldering areas. Lakeland in miniature.P1000039

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A last stile over a high wall and suddenly we are looking down on the Greenodd/Cartmel Estuary. There is Ulverston, there is the railway viaduct from Cark and there is Chapel Island off the coast from Conishead Priory. I seem to remember being told that one could walk out to the island at low tide, not something I will be doing. All places familiar to us from previous expeditions but never seen from up here before. We are thrilled with the way the walk is turning out even though rain clouds are massing over the sea. The undulating ridge gives us plenty of time to take in all the views. P1000041P1000063P1000052

After about a mile we can see from the map a nearby trig point on How Barrow, a lowly 170m but one we could not walk past without visiting. Fortunately a gate gave us access to that side of the fell and the proud little craggy summit was soon reached, A perfect spot for lunch. Others also reached the summit for the first time, and all proclaimed its vantage point despite the incoming rain, we are a hardy lot.P1000057

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From up here Cartmel village was a little hazy but the backdrop of Hampsfell reminds me of the last time I visited Cartmel on my trek around Lancashire’s monasteries. P1000056

Back on the other side of the wall a couple with a smart Airedale seemed to be hanging around. “could you tell us where we are and how do we get back to Cartmell?” They have no map and had been wandering in completely the wrong direction. Sir Hugh demonstrates the usefulness of GPS and sends them confidently on their way – we never see them again. 

The meat of our walk is over but decision time has arrived – walk back down the road into Cartmell or keep to tracks on a more circuitous route through the woods. Yes, you guessed it, into the woods we plunge. I have used these tracks before, but all looks different today until we realise that there has been extensive forest clearing on the estate following the storms of 2021. A curiosity passed on the way is a walled enclosure – we speculate on a pinfold, but there is no evidence of a gate. Perhaps some sort of water collecting reservoir? Anybody know?

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The light rain accompanies us all the way back to Cartmel. P1000066

We don’t venture into the village festivities but set off in the car on a long diversion to get us out of the racecourse, an hour later and there would be a queue of traffic trying to leave. 

I complement Sir Hugh on his choice of route, a good 5 miles, or rather 6 miles after I had gently twisted his arm for that little extra, equally enjoyed by both of us. And in my mind it never really rained until the journey home.

I will give a link to Sir Hugh’s version when he has posted. Here it is, hot off the press – conradwalks: Five miles or six miles?

***

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TRIED AND TESTED ONCE AGAIN.

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Following on from my recent cycle outing I feel empowered and keen to get out again. Empowered with a small p but powered nonetheless. I find myself back at the Halton Station parking by the Lune. But this time there is the bonus of the tea van lady, I have missed her sweet smile and eastern European accent. It transpires she only comes at weekends now – I celebrate with a coffee. Her prices have increase by 50% but who cares, this is better than any Costa outlet. (only £1.50 for good coffee here)

The chap next to me is ordering a bacon bap with his coffee having completed a morning cycle ride from Penrith, that must be 50 miles or so. He is of similar vintage to me, and we get into conversation of the cycling variety. His steed is a £7,000 German electric bike, no wonder he is here in quick time. Mine is a no frills, strong as an ox, been everywhere Dawes ‘Wild Cat’ from the 1980s. I don’t think he was impressed.

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The talk somehow drifts to past climbing in the Lakes. He knows Paul Ross, a celebrated Lakes climber, again of a certain vintage, who has recently, since his return from living in the States taken up environmental matters in our National Park. Only this morning I was reading on his Facebook page of the considerable objections to Zip Wires proposed across the old road alongside Thirlmere, which had even  been shamefacedly supported by the head of the Lake District National Park Authority! That whiffs of corruption. Thankfully the planners threw it out.  But we need the likes of Paul Ross to keep abreast of Disneyfication of the Lakes.

By now it was raining, so time for another coffee and time to let the Marathon athletes pass on the track. I became caught up in a similar race last year and found cycling through the racing runners trying. I have time to let them go by today.

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Bidding farewell to my cycling friend I find I’m faster than his batteries, I’m crossing the Millennium Bridge as he heads for the station and home. Being a little wary of a dodgy stretch into Morecambe since I was almost assaulted earlier in the year (a Cassius Clay/Muhammad Ali duck and dive saved me that day) I’m happy today to see there are lots of people out and about, so I feel somehow safer.

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Millennium Bridge.  

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St. George’s Quay.

I make it on to the seafront, the tide is well out. For maybe half a mile I have to navigate around dogs on long leads and teenagers, head down, plugged into their phones. Modern times. Once past Eric’s statue the holiday crowds thin out, and I  can relax and admire that famed Morecambe Bay panorama. I realise I have not been into Happy Mount Park or The Winter Gardens on my visits through here. The latter is only open on Saturdays and Sundays, so I missed an opportunity today.

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Children’s play on the site of the up-and-coming Eden Project.

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The yacht club lookout.

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My way back along the familiar canal towpath seems effortless, and I’m soon back onto the Lune Aqueduct where I finished the other day from the opposite direction.P1020725

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That’s two of my ‘tried and tested’ cycle routes covered, look out for the next two – Blackpool Promenade and Preston Guild Wheel.

Later, in Arnside, tea and cakes were waiting for me at Chez Hugh’s.

***

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HUTTON ROOF.

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As I write this today, with the rain coming down, yesterday’s welcome sunshine seems a distant memory. After several Lancashire walks taken directly from a guide book it was time to visit a different area and plan a route for myself in hopefully contrasting scenery. It worked out better than expected.

We were up the motorway out of Lancashire and into Cumbria, but only just. Not the Lakes but a quiet corner hidden away in the extreme south of the county. In the past I travelled here often to climb and boulder on Hutton Roof crags, beautiful sculptured limestone in the exquisite landscape above Dalton. It was time for a revisit and going over the map the night before I came up with a circuit including the summit trig point which I had not knowingly visited before, my focus then being primarily on the climbing area. It’s complicated up here with several ‘rakes’ of rock running across the fell, presumably fault lines in the limestone, creating miniature walls of rock. Paths are everywhere, but don’t always go anywhere and once the bracken is up it’s like finding your way through a maze.

I phoned Mike at a respectful time in the morning to see if he fancied a walk, but he was due to visit family on this Coronation weekend. Maybe I should therefore go for a longer walk in Bowland? Before long however he phoned back to say he thought, taking advantage of the good weather, he would postpone family to another day. I outlined my planned walk with only vague ideas of how we would navigate across the limestone plateau. Sandwiches hurriedly made we set off.

It was almost noon when we parked up in Burton-in-Kendal, but this worked to our advantage as the misty morning had given way to bright sunshine and blue skies. The first pleasant surprise was the old bridleway, Slape Lane, leading out of the village. A Panoramic Viewpoint has been erected  to honour Queen Elizabeth’s Golden Jubilee in 2002, the distant Lakeland Hills depicted were unfortunately hazy in reality. At least closer at hand Farleton Fell appeared prominent. P1010122

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Between hedges and walls the bridleway snaked slowly up the open fell side, first through farmland and then into forestry. Our attention was taken with the spring flowers and the unidentified bird song in the trees.

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Cumbria Wildlife Trust seem to have a hand in managing the woodlands and provide helpful information boards and permissive paths going who knows where. We stuck to the bridleway which came out onto a short stretch of road leading to a col where the Limestone Link footpath crosses Farleton Fell on its way from Kirkby Lonsdale to Arnside or vice versa. Nearby Newbiggin Crags look worthy of exploring.P1010132P1010133P1010136

Turning right we followed the footpath through coppiced woodlands and then onto more open limestone fell. Purple Orchids sporadically appeared giving a splash of colour. What a place for our lunch, looking out over fertile farmland and farther into Cumbria and the distant Howgill Fells. P1010154

I knew, or thought I did, my way to the climbing area, marked as The Rakes on the map. Soon we spotted climbers along the edge. Most were doing roped routes, and we stopped to watch for a while – what a perfect afternoon for them. Can you spot South America? P1010161

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Now for the difficult bit. There was a path leading away from The Rakes which I thought might take us to the trig point, but it kept going down. Trying to make a straight line back up the hill was impossible across the shrub covered limestone blocks. Not wanting to break a leg we surrendered and back tracked on the path we had come in on. This brought us back to our lunch spot! I glossed over this by praising the weather and suggesting to Mike it was good training for him, he’s off to the Amalfi Coast in a couple of weeks. We struck off on a higher path heading in the right direction only to find it twisting and turning through the rocks. Forward visibility was obscured by the vegetation, one just had to keep going the most obvious way. Junctions caused some serious discussion, but we might as well just have tossed a coin. A runner appeared coming in our direction, on asking him if he had come from the trig point he looked baffled obviously not recognising the term. Onwards. A well-used path came up from  the valley, so we joined it. A couple of dogs came past us followed by their owner who gave the impression of knowing the way but in fact this was her first time too. We followed the dogs and suddenly came out on to the more open top with the summit trig clearly visible.P1010177

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A true 360 degree viewpoint, now with Ingleborough coming out of the cloud.  The Bowland Hills were clearer than the Lakes. Morecambe Bay was a silver shimmer and one could see Blackpool Tower through binoculars if you wished. I don’t seem to have taken may picture at the top. It would be worth getting up here early one morning in the crisp air to make the most of the visibility. And what sunsets you could witness.  P1010183P1010184

If we didn’t get a move on we might have been seeing one of those sunsets. But once into Dalton Hall’s woods the forest tracks lead us unerringly down to a lane through the few houses of Dalton and down eventually to Burton. P1010189

It was 6 o’clock back at the car – oh well I could forget about cutting the lawn.

What an exceptional walk this turned out to be. On reflection, I see on the map public footpaths from Dalton that would have taken us to Burton without the road walking, maybe next time as I’m sure there will be a next time.

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IT’S SPRING AT SIZERGH.

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At 10 o’clock this morning I was stood in a queue waiting for my latest, I’ve lost count of how many, Covid booster. Nervous pleasantries were passed with the vaccinator nurse. I was thankfully not as old as most of the other customers. Never felt a thing. So back out into the Lidl car park on a beautiful sunny morning, no time for shopping, Soon I was home for a delayed breakfast. Despite warnings of possible side effects, take paracetamol and rest, let’s get out and enjoy the Spring weather.

At the back of my mind was a short walk from Sizergh Castle highlighted recently by fellow blogger John Bainbridge and others. Native daffodils in the woods aroused my curiosity. Noon found me parked in the grounds of Sizergh Castle, along with many more. My NT card saved me £9 in parking fees. Not for me the delights of the garden or castle, I strode purposefully upwards. The National Trust here have been at work creating a serviceable path to  Holeslack Farm, under scaffolding but with its original orchard attached. Not many followed me. Wild garlic in profusion. 

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A quiet lane took me up to the church of St. John the Evangelist. Thankfully it was open, and I was able to get a good view of the stained-glass windows and the painted mural, a memorial to the lost from the WW1.  P1000524

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Outside there was a view over the Kent Estuary with Arnside Knott on one side and Whitbarrow the other. The main event however, the Lakeland Hills, was a hazy distant blur though the  plaques showed me what should be seen on a clear day. Worth returning for.P1000536 P1000531

Out onto Scout Scar all was blue sky, the limestone ridge dotted with low growing trees. One can wander at will up here, but I stuck to a path along the edge of the escarpment watching the line of cliffs unfold with the Lyth Valley down below. I didn’t know the path dropping off this western side, but the map indicated a cairn. The cairn appeared and what a fine one. The track off was clear, but first I sat on the edge for a break whilst I had the views, though the far hills still hazy. I ate the last of my Xmas cake and topped up on water, a buzzard flew majestically below me. P1000537

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The way down was steep and stony through the trees. All of a sudden you are into pastures full of sheep belonging to Barrowfield  a wonderfully situated homestead. The farmer was sorting out his lambs, an age-old routine not changed for generations. P1000556

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Back into woods a narrow path threaded its way down the valley. New growth was appearing on the trees, the young beech leaves the brightest green. Continuing on a lane I bypassed Brigsteer and stayed high to the remote cottages at Well Garth. Then down through fields to Park End a picturesque C17 farm. P1000579P1000581

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A couple of fields, and I was into Brigsteer Woods. I just followed whichever path seemed to be in the right direction. These woods were traditionally coppiced, so light gets through to the forest floor. Everywhere were woodland flowers – primrose, cowslip, celandine, dog violet, dandelion, bluebell, wood anemone, wood sorrel, wild strawberries the list goes on. But I was too late for the native daffodils, they were well past their best. P1000604

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Native daffodils?

Out of the woods there was a short stretch through what had been an ancient deer park presumably connected with the castle estate. Back at the Castle the café was doing a roaring trade in ice creams, I was surprised by the number of children about – some must have longer holidays than others. I couldn’t resist a wander around the grounds and gardens before leaving. P1000612P1000642

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A varied area worth more exploration. I should visit Brigsteer village and maybe have a look at the bird hide on the edge of the mosses. Even a trip around the castle.

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