Rottenbuch – Trauchgau.
Most long-distance walks have a section just to get from A to B using the least painful way. On some previous routes I’ve cheated and hitched across dreary road sections. Today, with one exception didn’t promise much. Progress at first was slow and hesitant, little lanes going everywhere through traditional farming land. The signs and map didn’t agree, re-routing?, but I came out eventually near Wildsteig with views over Schwaig See with alpine peaks in the background. As you can see the weather is average. Navigated more lanes out of Wildsteig and through a nature reserve to head for Wies with its famous church. I’ve certainly had the paths to myself and mostly the churches too, therefore it came as a shock when a coach park appeared discharging hoards of international humanity to the cafes and souvenir stalls around the church. After all the hype that this was the height of Bavarian Baroque I didn’t appreciate this church as well as others. Maybe the crowds put me off. Shame they have allowed trees to grow so close to the front as they hide the architecture of the doorways which incidentally were being renovated.Met Uli the pilgrim outside for a catch up, he was eagerly waiting to go inside. I went for the popular Bavarian ‘kaffee und kuchen’ in one of the nearby gasthofs.
The afternoon was on a traffic free lane accompanied by the tinkling of the occasional bike bell and the continuous cow bells – the alps were getting closer. My hotel for the night was well situated in the countryside outside Trauchgau in the Halblech area and as a bonus had a pool and sauna which were greatly appreciated after a day in no man’s land.
That church looks as though Lawrence Llewellyn Bowen has let rip in there.
LLB could learn a thing or two here. The colours are much more muted in these churches, but that one was a bit overpowering as I said. Could do with a makeover. I dare say that now in this Bavarian heartland as I’m at the airport waiting to board.