I’ve got this peaceful easy feeling.

It is that sort of day; no wind, sun shining, rural Lancashire, the bike cruising effortlessly, no traffic, virtually no sounds. What more could you want. I’m on a linear canal ride where time has stood still, almost a parallel universe. The canal takes you along without you realising where you are in relation to familiar roads and settlements. I could be in Rotterdam or anywhere  – sorry that is a link to a recent post. But I meet people, interesting people in this parallel universe.

At the start I chat to an elderly cyclist who is setting off on his electric bike admitting it is heavy, and you can’t pedal it if the battery dies on you. He suggests that if you are over eighty then this is for you – well I have a few years of proper pedalling ahead of me. He speeds off and I never catch up.

There was the lady by the swans, they are here every year she says, using the canal towpath as a route to and from her shops. How lucky she is and I think she knew. There were seven cygnets, all strengthening their wings ready for a first flight, enchanting.

I pass, incognito, through Lancaster City at times elevated above the streets and housing. I have a picture in my mind of what would happen if the banks broke. That must be linked to my childhood stories of the little Dutch guy with his thumb in the leaking dam. Lots of the converted canal warehouses are now student accommodations, how lucky are they. There are some iconic canal features along here where the horses could cross from one side of the towpath to the other side without unhitching. I’ll leave that to your imagination.

Now in the countryside I chat to a houseboat owner, probably a former dropout but now elevated in my esteem to an interesting canal dweller. He may have the advantage over the rest of us in our current cost of living crisis. How the worm turns. Drifter.

A dog walker talks of his previous life as a travelling rep. No more motorway hold-ups for him.

The towpath takes me through shady cuttings and open fields. I don’t look at my phone to see where I am, preferring to let things happen. I can’t get lost. A southerner recently moved to these parts is interested in my route, but I have the feeling he won’t be tackling anything more than a gentle walk to the pub. How judgemental is that?

It seems to take an age on rather overgrown and awkward paths, I’m not as agile on the bike as before, talking decades here, and I’m very wary of skidding off the path head first into the canal. I walk some of the way. Picking ripe sweet blackberries was a joy. I was in no rush.

Eventually I reach the junction with the Glasson canal built to link the port of Glasson with Lancaster. And then the railway came. More of that later.

I’m still in that peaceful easy feeling as I continue without meeting a soul through fields towards the coast. It was along here that I witnessed a heron trying to swallow a wriggly eel earlier this year.

Glasson is as busy as ever with motorcyclists and tourists of a certain age, so I head across the bridge to the little shop where I’m in time for one of their freshly baked cheese and onion slices. Sat in the sunshine with a coffee – perfect. It must be high tide as the lock gates to the ocean are open.

I’ve taken a long time to cycle 12 miles to Glasson, what with all the stops and awkward sections, but now it is head down on the old railway, which superceded the canal I’ve just been following. Back into Lancaster and on to Halton Station. That has set me up for autumn and thoughts of trans Pennine trails.

I switch the radio on when I’m in my car, but this time there is no déjà vu link to the Eagles from way back then. Here it is nonetheless.  I may have played this before in other contexts, but it is a favourite of mine and perfectly reflected this sunny day’s ride. California dreaming.

I highly recommend this 20 mile off-road circuit, after a short ascent to reach the Lancaster Canal on the period Aqueduct it is flat all the way even if a little rough towards Galgate. The section to Glasson is totally rural and as peaceful as you could wish.



  1. Alan Smith

    A lovely route, but one to avoid in the wet weather months as the paths between Lancaster-Galgate-Glasson become a muddy quagmire. I last did the route in Feb 2021 and it felt like 40 miles.

  2. Michael Graeme

    I was with you every step of the way there – or should I say every turn of the wheel. You make me want to pump my tyres up and find an off-road route. You’ve also reminded me I’ve not been to Glasson this year. Nice mellow link to the Eagles!


    You deserved some peace and quiet after the trauma of your last outing. People often ask me how I find new routes. Your method often works by random choice as you progress along the route. For me I get enjoyment from studying the map, hopefully to incorporate potential items of interest, and then work a route round it, but because it is MY route it can be modified during the walk, whereas if one is following say the named XYZ route one feels somewhat obliged to stick to it. This one of yours looks like a good (summer) one.

    1. bowlandclimber Post author

      Yes the canal towpath can be muddy in the wetter months. On a cycle I find I have more time to deviate (or get lost) distance can be made up much quicker and easier than when walking when that ‘extra’ mile can become very tedious.

  4. Eunice

    A nice photo of the boats at Glasson 🙂 I like it there and did an off-grid overnighter one weekend in July – blog post to come now I’ve sorted out my pc issues. Love the Eagles track too, it’s one of my favourites.

    1. bowlandclimber Post author

      Glasson has a homely feel to it, neither seaside resort nor typical village. Basically a working harbour with lots of history.
      The locals seem very friendly, I just love the little shop/café over the bridge away from the crowds.
      Will await what you have to say about the place.


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