Not all those who wander are lost. Bilbo Baggins.
Yes, you’ve guessed it, I’m on the Tolkien Trail, for the umpteenth time. I don’t think I progressed from reading The Hobbit to the Ring series, so I don’t understand all of the associations of Tolkien’s fantasy worlds and our Ribble Valley. JRR Tolkien indeed visited the area whilst his eldest son was studying at Stonyhurst College in the 1940s, and no doubt he explored a little, being an advocate of nature, but did he really lean upon the area for inspiration? It would be good to know if the green rolling Ribble Valley, which we so appreciate today, is in the background somewhere.
In these days of Instagram and social media, many places tied to a film, book or TV scene have become must-visit spots for that selfie. The shopkeepers and pubs nearby will be rubbing their hands if their village or street is featured on TV week after week, but what of the local population who have to endure inconsiderate parking and intrusive behaviour? Try going to Haworth on a weekend. The same is happening to previously hidden beauty spots; the litter generated in some corners of the Lakeland is staggering. Internet searching even provides lists of ‘iconic’ locations.
So how does The Tolkien Trail fit into the scheme of things? Many of us have explored and enjoyed the area around Stonyhurst for decades without a thought of Tolkien or Middle-earth. Local enthusiasts and the tourist board seem to have hit upon the idea in the early 2000s, conveniently at the height of the Lord of the Rings film series’ popularity: literary connections were made and leaflets printed, and it has increased in popularity ever since. It has been included in several guidebooks, and YouTube videos are freely available. There are no standout Tolkien locations for the Instagram brigade, aside from perhaps Cromwell’s Bridge, to distract the walker. This trail is all about the natural scenery, which one hopes the visitors appreciate.
I arrive in Hurst Green at lunchtime, the streets are packed with cars, signs implore considerate parking, and there is a small car park at the village hall (voluntary contributions). I know I am adding to the problem. Why didn’t I catch the hourly bus from Longridge or come midweek?
I tend to walk the route widdershins, thus avoiding that long drag back up from the river to the village right at the end of the day. Most of the leaflets and guides go clockwise, and this is reflected in the steady stream of folk coming towards me all afternoon. Without exaggeration, at least a hundred; at one point, I wondered whether there was a sponsored walk underway. But the wide landscape easily swallows them, and as I said, there are no real honey spots. On reflection, I don’t recall seeing any litter.
A wedding reception is in full flow at the Shireburn Arms, a popular venue with stunning views over the Ribble Valley. Through their car park, a gate leads into a field that drops down to the River Ribble. 
Towards the bottom, it narrows alongside a steep gorge before crossing the stream.
Alongside the river, the pipeline carrying water to Blackburn is a graceful addition to the scenery. 
One is uniquely walking on Astroturf. A solution to prevent erosion on this popular stretch. Strips salvaged from an athletic track were laid down a decade ago and seem to be lasting well.
Pendle pops up on the horizon and is with us all day.
Yellow Loosestrife and Geraniums give some colour. 
Approaching Jumbles…
…and Tracy’s seat.
The giant hogweed we are warned against. Do not touch!
Hacking Ferryman’s house, Kemple End in the background.
17th-century Hacking Hall.
Site of the Hacking Ferry, which operated until the 1950s, Tolkien’s era. The Calder is joining in.
For more on the ancient ferry – https://bowlandclimber.com/2020/02/23/roads-to-nowhere-part-2-hacking-ferry/
All along this stretch, chattering Sand Martins are swooping over the river. One is just as likely to see a Little Egret as a Heron these days.
The Hodder is joining from the left.
The ancient Winckley Oak.
I learned to drive one of these before I was a teenager.
Stonyhurst College towers come into view.
That iconic bus shelter with a handy seat…
… and a view of Pendle.
C16th packhorse bridge. Cromwell’s army unlikely crossing.
One is now following the Hodder, which is mostly hidden by the summer vegetation. There are some good little bays for paddling along this stretch. 
And a lively weir further on. 
The trail climbs away from the river to Hodder Place, once a preparatory school for Stonyhurst College, but before that, a cotton mill owner’s property. Was there a mill on the Hodder below? I don’t think so, his must have been elsewhere..
I march through the grounds of Stonyhurst College before taking the footpath back to the village, arriving down Smithy Lane next to the photogenic Shireburn Almshouses.
Gothic Revival style St. Peter’s.
Almshouses.
I enjoyed my slow wander through our beautiful countryside and, like Bilbo Baggins, didn’t get lost once.
For a shorter version of this walk – https://bowlandclimber.com/2025/03/01/tolkien-in-the-mists-of-time/
I enjoyed reading your wander Bilbo. Lovely weather and scenery. Shame the owner os letting that Fergy stand rotting away and that front wheel i think is off a John Deere.
I thought the wheel looked a bit odd, but it was the same on the other side.
Always good to see a picture of the Winkley Oak. I’ve never seen hogweed before – no idea what it looked like. Now I do.
There was lots of Giant Hogweed along that stretch and signs warning you not to touch it.
Touching giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) exposes your skin to a toxic, phototoxic sap. Within 15 minutes to 48 hours, it triggers a severe skin reaction called phytophoto dermatitis. This strips the skin of its ability to protect itself from UV rays, leading to extreme, painful burns and large blisters. (Internet)
Last time I was round I saw signs by the path at Trough House warning about it. Not to be messed with.
Haven’t been past Trough House for some time – I wonder if it is being renovated.
There seemed to be a lot of building work going on.
I used to get my pullet eggs there. Those days are gone.
Yes, we have a generation who think eggs come from supermarkets, not chickens.
Arghh, except that was a different walk – the Dinkley Bridge/Ribchester circuit.
A good walk BC, a shame it was a bit of a grey day. I think I can solve the tractor wheel mystery – if the other side was the same then they are early Ferguson TEA 20 one-piece wheels which would normally be grey but have been painted yellow – the grey is partially visible underneath. Definitely not off a John Deere as it’s the wrong shade of yellow. The tractor is in too much of a state to tell but presumably it’s all original and dates from around 1946/47. One of the first Ferguson tractors to be fitted with a Standard Motor Company engine.
There must be thousands of Fergies rotting away in the countryside.
It is amazing how much people visit certain “iconic” locations they see on social media or on TV while so many other equally scenic locations are deserted. I remember walking the South West Coast Path almost alone and arriving at Port Isaac (Doc Martin) which was so busy that I escaped as quickly as possible! Thanks for sharing the beautiful scenery though.
I had the same experience at Port Isaac, not to mention all the Poldark locations.
Eunice is right about the wheel. The first TEO had a solid disc. I had it in my head that there was 4 small cuttouts near the rim. Well done Eunice.
It’s great to have two experts on side. I’ll see what else I can find.
Thank you. I spent many years with my previous partner owning and driving vintage tractors so got to know a fair bit about them. I still have a stack of tractor magazines somewhere.
I remember you mentioning that. The things we do.
It’s great to be kept on my toes Eunice. Most of my tractor comments come from my head having worked for MF for 34 years in the engineering, projects and service areas and stripped down so many other manufacturers models. I tend to use the internet on rarer models like the bulldogs and moline for example but I also have many publications spread around the house which I constantly look at.
Many thanks for this – I love this part of the Ribble/Hodder valley. Admittedly it’s part of the Tolkien theme but some years ago I remember seeing a rather nice carving of Gandalf created from the trunk of a tree that had evidently had to be taken down. I wonder if it’s still there.
He was there 5years ago. I photographed him here – https://bowlandclimber.com/2021/03/28/the-tolkien-trail-again/
There was no sign of him in the garden this week, but the hedges were high and thick. I suspect he may have rotted. Shame.
Nice walk. I recently watched a documentary about Tolkien life om Arte channel. It was so facinating.
I have to admit I am not a Tolkien fan. Maybe need to broaden my horizons, especially if I keep walking the trail.
A fine walk. I think we covered similar ground on a family holiday many years ago. Giant Hogweed is evil. It always reminds me of triffids.
I (quite literally) finished rereading The Hobbit yesterday for a brilliant course I am doing on Tolkein and his mediæval sources so this was a pleasure to see. Looks absolutely nothing like I imagined of course. I’m sorry you’re not a Tolkein fan, he was a fine ancient languages scholar but he did like the bombast!
Maybe because of the bombast, I’m not a fan.
I think the New Zealand scenery dominates in the films.
Your right about the natural beauty of the Tolkein Trail. I had been thinking a couple of Lord of the Rings inspired sculptures placed on the trail might be nice, but it is good that its so peaceful compared to some places with literary connections.
There was a wooden statue of Gandolf in the garden at Higher Hodder Place but I couldn’t see it. Maybe hidden behind the foliage or rotted away.
I walked this route (clockwise) with a teenage daughter (grumbling at the end) when it began to be publicised. The Tolkien connection helping to convince her to get out (she was, and still is, a fan of SF and fantasy stuff)
I walked this many times before Tolkien was implicated.
If you go clockwise, there seems to be a lot of uphill towards the end, maybe that’s why she was complaining.
No, she started complaining well before the end. Teenagers!