Day 19.   Fradley to Lichfield.

I’ve been here before at the end of my Two Saints Way from Chester.

The bus stops right outside St Stephen’s Church in Fradley. I notice the writing on the porch above the door, a biblical quote. Presumably, that is where the phrase ‘watch your step’ originated, a fitting warning to us pilgrims.  It is open and the heritage group are setting up an exhibition. They are all very friendly and pleased to narrate the church’s history and show me around. We even find a chocolate egg hidden behind the piano, missing from the children’s Easter hunt. The interior is bright and airy.

One of the group was involved in the planning of the Pilgrim Way Church Trail, which I’m following. By the time I leave, the morning’s drizzle has abated, meaning I have walked the whole route without the need of waterproofs, if only I had known at the start.

They warn me of the HS2 workings closing several footpaths into Lichfield. I plot a way using minor roads further north. Even so much of the area seems to have been grabbed by the HS2 fiasco. I thought it was stopping at Birmingham.

I cross the Coventry Canal and, with hindsight, could possibly have used it for some distance up to Fradley Junction, then connecting to footpaths into Lichfield. I had to look up the Coventry Canal on the map, as I was previously unaware of it.

As it is, I’m committed to a narrow lane used as a cycleway. I think I’m walking through the site of the wartime RAF site, judging from the occasional hangars still visible.

My first view of the famous triple Lichfield steeples, Ladies of the Vale, is ironically through HS2 security fencing.

Little ginnels wind through housing estates and straight to St Chad’s church.

St Chad’s Well was looking attractive, with a covering of Russian Vine. That was until I was closer and could see a body slumped inside it, down and out. Inside the church, a wedding ceremony is being rehearsed, so I don’t linger.

I pause on the way to admire the bronze statue of St. Chad by Peter Walker, 2021,  and some of the ornate stonework.

The usual crowds throng the magnificent western front with all 19th-century replacements of medieval figures, showing apostles, kings, and saints.

I’m greeted at the Cathedral door by one of their volunteers; they must have known I was coming. It turns out he is a historian of all things related to Chad. He tells me of many sites throughout the north; some close to home, which I will have to look into.

There is a service in progress in the chancel, so I sit and listen to it being broadcast throughout the Cathedral—a moving sermon reflecting sensibly on some of the world’s present problems, if only our politicians could listen.

Lichfield Cathedral is the only medieval three-spired Cathedral in the UK, and is a treasured landmark in the heart of England. (Lincoln only has towers) It is one of the oldest places of Christian worship, and the burial place of the  Anglo-Saxon missionary  St Chad. There is so much to see in its interior. George Gilbert Scott was heavily involved in its restorations. As noted above, a new shrine has been placed in the cathedral. It is a simple shrine with a cross incorporating a ‘relic’ of St. Chad from Birmingham, above a circular illuminated halo.

Among the cathedral’s many other treasures, in the Chapter House is the fine 8th-century sculpture of the ‘Lichfield Angel’, thought to be from St Chad’s tomb, as well as the 8th-century Lichfield Gospels.

Last time St. Chad’s Head Chapel was closed, so I am pleased today to be allowed up the steps to this peaceful space. This is where his skull was initially kept as a focus for pilgrims. After his remains were removed, people still came up here to pray. I suppose now his new shrine below will take preference. I’ve already been in the Cathedral for more than an hour and a half and have only cherry-picked my points of interest. One could easily spend half a day in here exploring. But before I leave, some mention should be made of the story behind the stained glass in the Lady Chapel. Originally commissioned for the nuns at Herkenrode Abbey (about 50 miles south-east of Antwerp) in 1532. Fortunately, the glass had been removed and taken to safekeeping before Napoleon’s troops arrived. It was bought by Brooke Boothby, who sold it to the Dean and Chapter for the price he had paid. It was installed here between 1803 and 1806. The abbey itself may be no more, but its images remain for us all to enjoy.

Lichfield’s streets are busy, it looks like an interesting city, but I have trains to catch.

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Another walk completed, even if in stages from January, due to circumstances.  From an initial idea of connecting Whalley Abbey to Manchester Cathedral, it evolved into a more extended pilgrimage from my home to Lichfield. Maybe about 160 miles in all. Following ancient ways, passing Saxon crosses, absorbing Ecclesiastic history, meeting wonderful people, and experiencing our diverse environment in all its guises.

How you approach a route is in your own hands; it may be a spiritual journey, a chance to experience the rural beauty or simply hearty exercise. Let’s not forget that walking is fun.