Monthly Archives: February 2024

RIMINGTON – ‘Time flies swiftly away’.

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For a change you may start this post with a  piece of music to set the scene.

The  tune is the hymn ‘Rimington’, composed by Francis Duckworth. He was born in the Ribble Valley village of Rimington on Christmas Day 1862 at the grocery store, now a house. When he was five he moved with his family to nearby Stopper Lane, where they ran the village shop next door to a Wesleyan Chapel and hand loom cottages, now all private residences. Francis’s mother died when he was 12 and he began a hard life of working in various family shops. He later opened his own grocer’s shop in Colne. He was well known throughout the area as an accomplished musician and organist and composed many hymns, often named after local villages. ‘Rimington’ appeared in 1904. He remained in Colne until his death in 1941. He is buried in nearby Gisburn’s churchyard where his memorial is inscribed with the first couple of lines of his famous hymn.

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We find ourselves parked this morning in that village of Rimington to follow another walk from Clitheroe Ramblers – 25 Walks in the Ribble and Hodder Valleys. Once again under the shadow of Pendle Hill, only a few miles from touristy Downham where I was a couple of weeks ago. But there are no tourists here, it is a curious village strung out along the lane with no obvious centre and a variety of housing styles. The Black Bull pub mentioned in the guide is nowhere to be seen, presumably closed. 

Anyhow we find our footpath heading into the fields – it is marked as a Heritage Trail, of which we know nothing. Some of the stiles are hard to spot with the sun in our eyes; as is Pendle towering above us. Yes, at last the sun is making a weak appearance today. In places the stiles have been replaced by those utilitarian galvanised kissing gates. I’m still not bowled over by them, being a dyed in the wool old git; see below. Anyway we head towards a farm through more tradional old gate posts and past a street light in the middle of nowhere. Bits of limestone break through the grass giving us a clue to the geology of the area. P1040511P1040514P1040517P1040519P1040522

Before we go farther I would like to do a poll on which of the following you feel is most appropriate in our countryside, assuming progress has to be made. Galvanised or green?

 Disused mines are marked on our map, perhaps they are something to do with the heritage trail. On the ground, pits start to appear all over the hillside and across the other side of Ings Valley. Apparently silver rich lead was recovered from here originally in the C17th from bell pits and later on an industrial scale from mine shafts. A smelt mill was built in the C19th.  “Between 1880 and 1885 the York & Lancaster United Mining Co. Ltd sank a shaft and raised some ore. Unfortunately, James Wiseman, the banksman in charge of the shaft top, fell down the shaft and was killed in September 1884”  This latter information I gleamed later from the internet where Rimington’s heritage is well represented. We should have known this before to fully appreciate and interpret the area. P1040526P1040528P1040530P1040529

We come across a small limestone quarry but fail to spot its limekiln.P1040532

There is probably a lot of heritage around here.

In the distance below Pendle is listed but modernised Clough Head Farm. We are almost on the border of Lancashire and Yorkshire hereabouts. I remember when White Rose flags were flown in Gisburn long after it had been assimilated into Lancashire. Lanes, which switchback the slopes, bring us to Middop Hall, C17th and again listed but without much change. A grand display of mullioned windows. Somewhere in the barn are remnants of Sawley Abbey. The stone from the abbeys must have been reused in many farms in the area, we have  passed some at Little Mearley Hall before. P1040536P1040537P1040543P1040541

Shortly after leaving Widdop Hall we get into conversation with a friendly farmer on his quad bike. After the usual discussion on the weather he opens up and tells us he lives at the Hall and relates its history. If only we had met him down there we may have had a closer look around.

Onwards on the deserted lane with more ups and downs than I want. Then we are heading up onto the slopes of Weets Hill to join the Pennine Bridleway on Coal Pit Lane, more heritage there.
P1040548P1040550From this elevated position the Three Yorkshire Peaks are just visible but too hazy to photograph. It is a slightly better view down the Ribble Valley towards the Parlick and Fairsnape group of Bowland. And of course you can’t get away from Pendle in these parts.P1040551P1040553Soon we are on the return leg, again on quiet lanes, through the hamlets of Howgill, Newby and Stopper Lane. Lots of interesting buildings are passed and we guess at their original purposes.

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A lot we walk past without a second glance, never mind a photograph. We do notice the plaque to Duckworth in Stopper Lane, but had no idea of the industry here. The historic photo is of the village’s joinery shop with its ‘windmill’. Screenshot 2024-02-24 213325Screenshot 2024-02-24 213447Here abouts is the village institute hall, a good half mile out of the village proper. But it does have an information board which tells us, all too late, about the Heritage Trail we have almost followed. P1040562

If you are planning to visit this area be sure to download this map from their website. https://www.rimington.org.uk/index.php/rimington-s-heritage/heritage-trail   We wish we had and feel the need to go back and check out our omissions. 

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The sundial on Martin Top Chapel, under scafolding today, is a reminder that this life we live is short and fleeting, and also seems to comment on the changes that have occured quite rapidly in these working villages in our lifetime.

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STRANGE LITTER.

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                                                        A crystal clear brook – but what lurks within?

The last time I was up the fell, here in Cowley Brook Plantation, I noticed litter starting to appear. Time for a clean up to hopefully stop it becoming a recurring problem.

Hailstones kept me awake all night and this morning there were some hefty showers. So I was in no rush to get out, par for the course at this time of year for me I’m afraid. Living in Longridge, which is elevated from the Preston plain, allows one to look out to the west and see what weather is coming our way for the next hour or so; the best way of weather forecasting. At two o’clock it was all blue sky.

Armed with my plastic bag and ‘litter picker’ I wandered into the trees and up to the highest point. On these remoter paths, all is relative from the road, I found only the odd can and a sweet paper or two. Working my way back down to the popular dog walking circuits, guess what I picked up the most? No prizes for the correct answer – poo bags. Some hidden in the undergrowth, others hanging from a convenient branch. 20240223_15330820240223_153806

Coming back up through the woods by the lively stream there was a rash of orange peel scattered about. 20240223_160017

And then near the gate from the road a disgusting pile of nappies and tissues.Screenshot 2024-02-23 203330

I seem to remember changing my children in the boot of the car, but that was before ‘disposable’ nappies became the norm. The throwaway society has led to ever more landfills, water pollution, ocean degradation and now a worrying apathy to the problem. Recycling will never keep up with the world’s waste. Coming up at the beginning of March is ‘The Big Plastic Count’ which helps you to focus on your own use and points the way to a more sustainable future. It all starts at home so why not sign up at Home | The Big Plastic Count  Shame they couldn’t have produced a more polished video.

The nappies safely into the bag, along with a few polystyrene coffee cups from the roadside, I was ready to leave but then spotted…P1040480

…laid out near the path. Strange litter, why and by whom?

Job done, home for tea.

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BASHALL EAVES CIRCULAR.

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On the map this looks like a nice gentle rural walk, perfect for Mike’s training schedule before flying off to Madeira’s sunny adventures. I agreed to join him, secretly knowing the true facts from a relatively recent visit.

Another route he had chosen from Clitheroe Ramblers’ Walks in the Ribble and Hodder valleys. Today it was the Hodder.

The cloud was down on the Bowland Fells which is a shame as there is a fell race up there today. Even Longridge Fell stayed under mist as we drove alongside to park in Bashall Eaves.  We had a window of dry weather until about three this afternoon. Better get a move on.

All started well along a farm track, the guide’s instructions just said follow a waymarked route through the farm and cross five fields. Of course there were no waymarks and we had to ask the farmer the way out of his yard. He looked us up and down and delivered the fateful “there is a lot of water in the fields” before sending us into those fields. The first was the worst, a glutinous shaking morass. It was best to keep sidestepping the worst and not linger as your boots were being sucked down. To make things worse the stiles, if you could find them, were rotting and held together with string. Not a good start to the day and I knew things were to become far worse. Not many people come this way. P1040381P1040382

If we are going to have to become accustomed to water logged ground in the future I think I need to invest in some good walking Wellingtons.

Agden Farm was a Land Rover graveyard, at least the cows are kept inside,. The path, as it was, disappeared into undergrowth before tackling a steep ravine on muddy steps. This was the first of several cloughs we encountered today, steep and slippery down and steep and slippery back up.P1040390P1040386P1040393P1040398

Guesswork and some dodgy stiles delivered us to the next roller coaster, Paper Mill Wood, where at the bottom a fast flowing stream had to be forded. There was a brief respite alongside the River Hodder, the scenery idyllic. This is fishermen’s territory and there isn’t a lot of public access.P1040403P1040404P1040406P1040407P1040411P1040415

Open fields above the Hodder, with the instruction to head uphill to the three oaks. That was easy enough, they were unmistakable. Now head for a lone ash. This brought on a discussion on identifying trees in Winter mode, a skill neither of us had, I may go on a course I see they are running at Brockholes Nature Reserve.  Drop down to a stile wasn’t very helpful as we couldn’t see one. But there was the faintest evidence of a path, the first today. Not many come this way.P1040420

I was telling Mike about the next bridge, at one time erroneously marked as ‘Roman Bridge’ but more likely a mill packhorse bridge, we were heading for. How maybe 35 years ago my eldest son and I arrived at it on a walk to find it taped off and in a dangerous state. We recklessly crawled across the crumbling stonework with a large drop below us. I had returned a few times after it was rebuilt as a wooden structure in 1997. But the bridge we came to today didn’t look very impressive, perhaps my memory is playing tricks.  P1040425

No we weren’t there yet. Dropping farther into the woods we eventually arrived at the deep ravine of Mill Brook and the dramatic ‘new’ bridge. It was an impressive, as I had remembered it, and no doubt expensive, piece of engineering. The brook is 40 feet below. Having not met a single person since the first farm, a spaniel trotted across the bridge in front of us, soon to be followed by his master. The conversation that ensued turned out to be between two architects, one practising and the other retired. I listened in. He, the practising one, had just come from Lees House where he had been responsible for recent renovations. He warned us of more slippery paths to come and then posed on the bridge for his photo.P1040426P1040428

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The way onwards and upwards was indeed awkward through a series of fallen trees. Not many people come this way, get the idea.P1040435

The guide book has you continuing across fields to pick up the road for a while before doubling back to Lees House. A rather pointless exercise as there is on the map a lane direct to the house from the edge of the woods. All right, it may not be a public right of way but we were happy to risk it and we were soon through the buildings without encroaching on their privacy and back on track.

On track meant a narrow hemmed in path past Lees House and a slithering descent through the woods to yet another footbridge over Mill Brook. (I wonder if a direct way could be found alongside the brook from the near the ‘Roman’ bridge). I have never found an easy way up from this latest footbridge, often ending up in impenetrable Elephant grass. Today we staggered steeply upwards through the mud and low tree branches. Not many people come this way. The grass has not started its growing season yet, but was lurking in the background.  Eventually we were in the open fields heading to salvation. In hindsight, a wonderful thing, I think I might know a better way next time. P1040438P1040440P1040443P1040445

Salvation was reaching the farm track at Micklehurst Farm in the middle of nowhere. It was great to hear and see Lapwings flying over these fields.  Some of the caged working dogs were noisy but probably harmless, but the brown one on a short chain looked particularly menacing. How strong are those chains?

We didn’t quite make the entrance to Browsholme Hall. The seldom travelled side road took us through felled plantations, now being resurrected as nature reserves. That often in these parts is an equivalent for pheasant breeding and shooting grounds.

I diverted from the direct way back to Bashalls to show Mike the Saddle Bridge below Rugglesmire Hall. Probably from the C17th but restored, by public conscription in 1954. It is known locally as Fairy Bridge, said to have been built one night by fairies to help an old woodcutter who was being pursued by witches. A delightful spot. P1040455

In the hamlet of Bashall Eaves, maybe a dozen cottages, is a preserved Lancashire Cheese press worth a picture.P1040478

A delightful walk, all great fun. Those six miles took us over four hours. Come prepared for a testing time, but enjoy the unspoilt environment and wildlife of Bowland.

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Across the fields to Longridge Fell.

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A YEAR ON THE FELL.

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I have just created a file in my computer photos for a recurring picture which I hope to take every month or more often if I get the chance to see how the scenery changes through the year. I have chosen a spot in United Utility’s Cowley Brook Plantation on the edge of Longridge Fell for this project. This little area has become a favourite of mine for a quick blast of fresh air, some bird song, the delightful babbling brook and a variety of tree plantings since it was semi-cleared a few years ago. A little sanctuary, who’s development I’m keen to follow. I’m sorry I didn’t catch the snow a couple of weeks ago.

Ignore the dog walkers, the majority take away their mess, I clean up the rest. Go in the early morning or at dusk to have the place to yourself. Get off the beaten track. You may catch sight of a shy Roe Deer or a quartering Barn Owl. There is nearly always a Warbler to be heard. Last year we were visited by Crossbills.

Today I didn’t even set foot in the woods. The mist was down and there was steady rain. I was surprised to see cars parked up at the popular Jeffrey Hill spot. The fell would be squelchy to say the least and there were certainly no views. This was the forecast for the day. I only drove up to give my little car a run out after its battery had failed.Screenshot 2024-02-16 155624

And this is what it looked like today.

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Jeffrey Hill car park. 


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Cowley Brook plantation.

These were my first photos taken in January, nothing dramatic. I’ll revisit on a better day for the February view. The view to the west I thought was too enclosed, but I may change my mind on that for the sake of completeness. 

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To the east.


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To the north. 


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To the south.

On the map below the green marker is approximately where I have decided to record the changing year. By pure chance it is on the line of an ancient Roman Road coming up from Ribchester, serendipity.Screenshot 2024-02-17 161842

In view of the lack of any decent photos today I’m sharing this one, give me Longridge Fell any day.

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Waiting for a bus on the South Col Everest.

MORECAMBE BAY. 20 YEARS ON.

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On the evening of 5 February 2004 twenty one Chinese illegal immigrants were drowned by the tide in Morecambe Bay while harvesting cockles, They were earning a reputed £1 per hour. Their call for help, they didn’t even speak English, was “sinking water” but it was too late to save them. The slave gang master was jailed for his involvement. There is a poignant statue, Praying Shell, located near Red Bank Farm farther north on Morecambe Bay.

You probably remember this tragedy, twenty years ago. I was reminded of it by a radio programme whilst driving up to the area today. As I look out across Morecambe Bay,  with the tide well in, I feel shivers down my spine. This is the famous view with the Lakeland hills in the background but today is all cold water and mist, not a place to take lightly. There have been other deaths out there.

I wonder how many more immigrants, trafficked and enslaved here by criminal gangs, are earning £1 an hour in some illegal trades. There is talk on the street of carwashes and nail parlours.

I remember being in a dingy Indian Restaurant in Preston when Immigration Officials raided it. They were looking for a ‘Mr. Patel’ (one of thousands no doubt). “He doesn’t work here anymore” was the blank answer they received. Another time, in an even dingier café in Bradford, I attempted to find the toilets only to walk into a room with maybe a dozen ‘Mr Patels’ sleeping on the floor. It must still be happening, but now probably Afghanistanis, Serbians or Albanians,

The world is a cruel place at the moment. We may have to make room for disposed Ukrainians and Palestinians. The former were welcomed with open arms in a gesture of good will, but I can’t see that happening with the latter. Our, or more correctly our ‘make it up as you go along’ government’s, only answer to the oncoming floodgates of persecuted immigrants, once known as refugees, is to send them to Ruanda denying their human rights. Not only is the world cruel but the so called rich countries are in for an onslaught of deprived humanity. We regrettably have not got to grips with the problem or any idea of the solution.

All this was going through my mind whilst gazing across the bay from a seat not far from the Sunday diners in the Midland Hotel, a world away from the cockle pickers.

I had just pedalled in from Lancaster on my usual route on the cycleways. The promenade was busier than usual, I realised it was the start of half term. I had to be very wary of loose children and dogs and was glad to escape into the peace of the canal towpath. It was a grey day all round.

 

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On a lighter note as I was cycling up a suburban side street in Hest Bank a passing motorist stopped to ask me “which house is Tyson Fury’s?” Of course I had no idea. Fury. the heavyweight boxing champion, lives with his wife and seven children in Morecambe and is apparently regularly seen around town. It must be annoying to have fans turning up outside your house for a selfie and an autograph. And who would want to annoy Tyson?

IN THE SHADOW OF PENDLE.

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After all that arty stuff over in Yorkshire last week it is time to get back to some proper Lancashire walking.

This walk is described as a classic in the booklet published by Clitheroe Ramblers – 25 Walks in the Ribble and Hodder Valleys. An excellent little production from 2004 with several authors describing their favourite local walks. I can vouch for most of them.

Wednesday is the only decent day of the week before a yellow warning for snow and ice. I thought of going for my usual cycle ride around Morecambe Bay and visiting Sir Hugh, but he turns out to be occupied, it can wait till another time when he is free. All this thinking and procrastinating and it is nearly lunchtime. Who else would be free for a quick short walk – I phone JD and he says he will be ready in 15 minutes, that’s what friend are for. Somehow I feel I need company today.

An easy drive and we are parked up by the little stream in Downham, one of the prettiest villages in Lancashire. The estate does not allow overhead electricity lines, aerials or satellite dishes etc , making it a popular location for period films. The classic 1961 film Whistle Down the Wind was based on the area and more recently the BBC 1 series Born and Bred. Many of the buildings in the village and surroundings are listed, including the stone bridge we are parked by.

But we haven’t come to look at the houses, no we have a brisk 5 miles to walk in the limestone country below towering Pendle. The guide book is very functional and basically just gives you directions without any historic or geological embellishments.

Chapter 14. A Downham Classic. Gill Morpeth.

We are soon unto fields heading towards Worsaw End Farm and there below us is the barn where Alan Bates (AKA Jesus or ‘the man’) sought refuge from the law and entranced the children from the village in that famous 1961 film, Whistle Down the Wind. Hayley Mills is the girl feeding and protecting him. I have just found out that the original novel was written in ’59 by Mary Hayley Bell, wife of John Mills and mother of the star Hayley Mills. If you get a chance to watch this black and white movie you will recognise a lot of the scenery but it is deeper than you think with strong allegorical passages as well as Lancashire humour.  “he’s not Jesus, he’s just a fella”

The phrase ‘Whistle down the wind’ comes from Falconry. When falcons are released to hunt they are sent upwind and when turned loose for recreation they are sent downwind. So down the wind is to be cast off to find ones own path. There is no wind today and we have a map so perhaps there are no similarities to be drawn. We just get on with walk.

Above us is the rounded Worsaw Hill, a grassed over limestone reef knoll which today is popular with the local sheep. I went up it once for a spectacular view down the Ribble Valley, well Clitheroe Cement works at least. We pass briefly into the yard of the farm featured in the film and than are back into fields alongside the meandering Worston Brook. We spot an almost hidden ‘packhorse bridge’. The water looks so clear, having come down from Pendle. I remember fishing as a child for Crayfish in these Pennine becks. I met a woman recently who was doing some research for DEFRA on crayfish in certain locations, they are apparently a very good indication of water pollution.

We approach Worston but don’t visit it, half a dozen houses and a good rural inn, The Calf’s Head. Instead we take a direct route up the fields towards Pendle. I don’t recognise this way, but when I look at my map from the last time I have, So much for my memory. I do know I have been past Little Mearley Hall many times and point out the windows supposedly taken from Sawley Abbey after the dissolution. I warn JD about the tied up dog that will surprise us round the side of the barn, yes he is still there today but seems to have lost his bark. The farmer is busy planting new mixed hedging along the way, they have grubbed up so much in the past..

The walk now follows for a mile or so a line of farms scattered at the foot of Pendle, Angram Green, Moorside, Barkerfield and Hookcliffe, all looking ancient and steeped in Lancashire’s countryside. As always with JD the conversation is stimulating and far reaching. We are making good time without stopping as I want to delver him home to help his wife with the grandchildren after school.

Cutting across fields towards another reef knoll the guide mentions a barn at Gerna a strange name for these parts, ?Nordic. The farm itself has been gentrified.

Soon we are following the lively beck back into Downham, the cottages here having the water run under there front entrances.

That’s been a quick walk for me, just two hours for the five miles which bodes well for my rehabilitation into longer trips, of which I have a few in mind.

Here’s a few snaps to give you a flavour of the area and maybe entice you to Downham for this enjoyable walk.

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Pretty Downham cottage.

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Worsaw Hill.

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The ‘Jesus’ barn.

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Disappearing bridge over Worston Beck. 

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Hazy view down the Ribble Valley. Kemple End, Beacon Fell and Parlick.

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JD hoping we don’t have to go all the way up Pendle. 

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Little Mearley Hall with the Sawley windows to the left. 

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A little disinterested today. 

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Good to see hundreds of mixed hedging plants going in. 

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Don’t follow your satnav, they were soon coming back. 

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Diversifying into paper cups.

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More limestone knolls below Pendle, and Rad Brook.

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Downham Beck. 

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Another pretty Downham cottage.

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BRADFORD INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM NOSTALGIA.

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For my last day in Yorkshire I had a choice of venues. I wondered about the National Coal Mining Museum nearby, but due to ‘staff training’ there were no underground tours that day and I did wonder whether the place would be overrun with school children. A lady at the Hepworth had recommended a NT property, Nostell Priory, but the house is closed in winter and the gardens were restricted. So there are two to come back to. Other considerations are Bradford’s Cartwright Hall Gallery, where one can see Lowry, Warhol, Lichtenstein and Anish Kapoor, or the ever popular Salts Mill in Saltaire. But there is one other possibility – I check its opening times and am decided.

When my children were small I used to take them on occasions to the Bradford Industrial Museum, for reasons which will become clear. I’ve not been back for getting on for forty years, time for a reappraisal and it is on my way home if I avoid the M62. I let the satnav take me there from  the Campanile in Wakefield. I still am unsure of its precise location in sprawling Bradford, look it up, but I am delivered to the entrance in less than an hour.

I first took my boys there for them to see the inside of a mill with working machinery. But there was also a room dedicated to transport vehicles manufactured in Bradford. Jowett cars and motor cycles mainly but tagged on the end were a couple of cycles hand built in the city. (Between the wars and ever since there has always been a tradition of quality hand built lightweight steel racing cycles from our northern towns. You may well of heard of Ellis Brigham, Bob Jackson, Jack Taylor, Dave Yates – all sort after frames) As I will tell below I had owned a Baines bike and ridden it regularly whilst the boys were young. Imagine their surprise when there was the identical cycle in the museum. “ your bike’s in a museum Dad!”  I’m not sure whether that was said with pride or shame, but they never forgot.

Here is a photo I took in the museum back in the early 80s. baines1

Going back farther in time, as a teenager, maybe 15, I was into racing cycles and time trials. There was a cycle shop in Northgate, ??Cunningham’s, and in the window was a second hand bike I coveted. A Baines ‘flying gate’ racing machine built in Bradford.  For an article and photos of the Baines cycle have a read here. and here.

Priced at £20 it was out of my reach but I would still go in and look at it. Eventually I came to an understanding with the owner, a racing cyclist in the past, that he wouldn’t sell it until I had saved up the money. I don’t know how I saved out of my meagre pocket money but perhaps I was helped by my various aunts and uncles. So the day came when I marched into the shop with £20 and marched out with the precious Baines cycle.

Dragging out another old photo, sometime in the early 60s. Can’t see much of the Baines in detail, although the chromed front forks show up. Note the ‘musette’ bag strap (‘bonk’ bag) over the shoulder and the bottle with straw. That is my longtime mate Mel behind, he of the long distance walks who sadly passed away in 2020.P1040357

Here we are at the start of Hadrian’s Wall Path in 2012.Hadrians Wall Peel Crags 026

That bike was my pride throughout my teenage years, I used it to cycle to school, tour the youth hostels in the holidays and to compete, poorly, in 10 and 25 mile time trials. Most of that time it was in classic fixed wheel mode. After University and when I had settled down in Longridge in the 70s I resurrected the bike, added some Campagnola gears and started using it for cycling locally and through the Trough. At some stage I took it into Sam William’s, another ex-racer, cycle shop in Preston and arranged to have it resprayed. It came back looking brand new with chromed forks and original name transfers. The only problem was that I was informed that there was some rust in the tubing which could weaken it. That put me off using it often and I built another bike for regular use. The poor old Baines was left hung up in the garage.

That’s how it could have ended but a few years ago I had a minor declutter and advertised it on one of those well known sites. There was a lot of interest and eventually the auction ended with a substantial financial gain for me. The chap who bought it was from Bradford and a collector of Baines Cycles. He was thrilled with his purchase and intended bringing it back to life with original fittings, though not necessarily to ride. I was pleased it had gone to a good home. My youngest son, who now has more bikes than I can count, however was very disappointed I had sold it. When I send him a photo of the same bike in the museum today his immediate reply was – “I still haven’t forgiven you

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So back to the museum.

The museum is in the former Moorside Mill, built around 1875 as a small worsted spinning mill.  Bradford Industrial Museum has permanent displays of textile machinery, steam power, engineering, printing machinery and motor vehicles etc etc.  You can also visit Moorside House where the mill manager lived, and in contrast the mill-workers’ back to back terraced housing.

It is crawling with enthusiastic and noisy, young school trippers.

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The whole of the first floor is taken up with machinery from the worsted manufacturing era. Worsted was from sheep’s wool as opposed to cotton fabrics from, well, cotton. Many of the processes are similar. Blending, scouring, carding, combing, twisting, spinning, winding and finally weaving are all explained. There is machinery from the water mill era through to the steam era. Now all can be seen working by the flick of an electric switch. There are set times for switching the demonstrations on, I just follow the school groups. P1040229

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When the machinery is working, particularly the looms, the sound is deafening, imagine working in this environment. Hope the videos play.

There is quite a lot of educational material on the social environment in the weaving towns in the late C19th and early C20th. I am not sure how much the junior school children took in.P1040237P1040238

The development of steam engines since over 200 years ago is highlighted. They were important to the weaving industries as well as the growing industrial world. The information too complicated to take in casually, but there are many working models to admire. And down in the basement an actual steam engine, recovered from Linton cotton mill when it was demolished in 1983. Victor, as it is named, is steamed up at certain times of the year and must be a spectacular show of power. P1040162P1040163Screenshot 2024-02-04 214247P1040164

The transport section is just the same as I remember it and there at the end of the line past all the Jowetts is that classic cycle. P1040182P1040180P1040181

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The iconic Jowett Jupiter.

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A black Jowett Javelin behind the Jupiter.

After a coffee in the basic café I wander outside to look at the mill owners stone house. It is furnished in the period style, early twentieth century. There is so much detail to take in, literally a view into the past. P1040244

The much humbler back to back cottages across the way, saved from demolition and again furnished in the era of the mill’s working. Some of them also show life in the 60s and 70s – lots of nostalgia there for the older visitor and amusement for the school children. P1040268

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There is so much of interest in this museum, far more than I have highlighted, particularly to industrial or social historians and those of an engineering background. We of a certain age will find abundant memories for a lost but recent part of our lives.

I am pleased I stopped off for a visit, especially for that bike. We all love nostalgia.

NATURAL YSP.

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A short post today after all those lengthy ones.

Looking through my photographs of all the sculptures I took in the Yorkshire Sculpture Park I see some interesting shapes in nature. I’ve put a few together for my amusement.

Another time I visit maybe I should just ignore the sculptures and look at the trees.

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YSP MISCELLANY III.

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***

Crossing the bridge at the end of the lower lake one couldn’t but notice the large lady strutting across the field. I have never been a fan of Damien Hirst ever since I came across his open womb pregnant Verity in Ilfracombe, whilst walking the South West Coastal Way, and this figure before me is unmistakably his. The Virgin Mother. 2005. Damien Hirst. ”We are here for a fun time, not a long time”

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And there are more in the distance but I was content with long zoom images.

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Charity. 2002.  Damien Hirst.

 

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The hat makes the man. 2004.  Damien Hirst.

I could have walked down the valley to the Weston Gallery but time was getting on. There is always another day and I wanted to see some sculptures this side of the lake. By now the wind was getting up and it was difficult to hold either myself or the camera steady. 

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Black Mound. 2013. David Nash. Oak charred in situ. Another of his that will age with time naturally.

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49 Square. 2013. David Nash. Silver birch which will grow into a white square by the lake.

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Oeuvre (Verdigris) 2018. Gavin Turk. A large bronze duck egg.. “I made an egg that will last forever – but now we no longer no what forever means – it depends which report you read” 

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Hazmat Love. 2017. Tom Friedman. Embracing, wrestling or dancing?

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Mind Walk. 2022. Peter Randall-Page. A continuous line carved into Bavarian granite.

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Gazing Ball. 2018. Lucy + Jorge Orta.

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Notice the small heart, their reference to a close friend who died waiting for a transplant. 

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Diario. 2016. Mikayel Ohanjanyan. Where the steel wire cuts into the marble the names of all his friends are written.

 

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“during our lifetime, these acquaintances shape our identity, values, and human dignity” 

And now for something completely different. This is based on an Invacar, the basic three wheeler, all pale blue, issued to disabled people by the NHS for thirty years from 1948. I just about remember them. They were eventually deemed unsafe. Heaton was issued with one in 1971, he says he felt like a solitary cripple in it. Now painted gold – “from lame to Lamé”

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Gold Lamé 2014. Tony Heaton.

I wander up the park through the highly polished granite shapes by Japanese sculptor Masayuki Koorida.  P1040113

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Over the bridge up to the iconic Love statue.

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Ha-Ha Bridge. Brian Fell.

 

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Love. (Red Blue Green)  Robert Indiana. 

I was running out of time although the park closes at 5pm the galleries close at 4. Going the long way round and exploring I had misjudged it. I missed out on the Chapel’s Light Organ show and much more but I wanted to complete my Erwin Wurm tour from this morning. There were a few more in the garden but the light had gone for photography.  Fortunately the majority were in the Underground Gallery where I had 20 minutes to spare – too short a time really for all his curiosities. Thankfully there was no one about to take a picture  of any of my appendages poking through his caravan. All bendy vehicles, gherkins and sausages. 20240131_15401720240131_15410420240131_154043

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The YSP is on a grand scale and the large open spaces suit a lot of the larger statues. As I intimated there is lots more to discover. Next time I may park at the Weston Entrance and walk around from there. I did think about returning tomorrow but perhaps a change of scenery is needed and I have a couple of other options. Certainly spending the two nights in Wakefield has been a winner although I think I will give the Campanile’s pizza a miss tonight.

***

This a rough map of my anticlockwise ramblings. 5 miles measured but more like 6 or 7 actually walked.

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Looking through my photos of all things non-sculptural I have some interesting natural images which I may post as an alternative view.

YSP MISCELLANY II

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Continuing my perambulation in the park I wander down towards the lake, the lower one. Here are two large ‘architectural’ installations from Anthony Caro. 

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Dream City 1996 and Promenade 1996. Sir Anthony Caro.

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Promenading in front of the hall.  

A strange but captivating ring of twelve animal heads from the Chinese Zodiac. The artist Ai Weiwei, a Chinese dissident, wanted them to be fun “everybody has a Zodiac connection”

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Circle of heads. Ai Weiwei 2010.

Looking at my map I see there is a footpath around the upper lake which looks interesting. The two lakes were originally hand dug for Bretton Hall in the C18th and are at the centre of the park, they are connected to the River Deame which flows through the park. In amongst the trees I come across scattered artworks.

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123454321 Sol LeWitt 1993. Mathematical progressions present in nature.

Idit Nathan and Helen Stratford’s  Further Afield. 2021. are several railway sleepers inviting you to play.

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Idee de pietra – Olmo. 2008. Giuseppe Penone. The tree is bronze, the stone real.

No sculpture park is complete without Antony Gormley.  One and Other. 2000.

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Ravine. Tania Kovats. 2010. Cast concrete ‘eroding’.

I particularly like this use of the old boat house.  JocJonJosch.  Eddy.2014. in which the three artists each have an oar, going nowhere.

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Flagstone, 2016. Willem Boshoff. Belfast granite polished back to the molten state. The lettering translates – ‘a drop of water hollows a stone, not by force, but by continuously dripping’ Ovid.

At the end pf the lake by the bridge this young man is on his phone. But what is he thinking about?       Network 2013. Thomas J Price. P1030837

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I’ve never been up to the Longside Gallery on this side of the park, and despite it being closed I fancy the walk. A steep field leads me upwards with good views back over the lakes and park. Hereabouts are lots of lovely trees which has given me an idea for a separate post on nature in the park.

There is nobody about as I continue along the ridge to the Round Wood and unexpectedly come across a circular stone wall, it must be one of Andy Goldsworthy’s. P1030863

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Longside Gallery. Closed. 

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Outclosure. Andy Goldsworthy. 2007. 

Oh, there is somebody up here, a solitary figure sat looking at the view. But as I get closer he becomes much larger. Sean Henry’s  Seated Figure. 2016 plays with scale. The last photo in the series fortunately has a passing lady stood next to him for perspective.

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As I walk down the hill the boundary wall in the sunken Ha Ha suddenly develops small deep rectangular enclosures, could this be Goldsworthy again? In one a suspended tree has been captured, perhaps there were in the other two but decay may have moved in.P1030922

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Hanging Trees. 2007. Andy Goldsworthy. (YSP photo)

I can’t get to grips with the last ‘installation’ on the hill. Seventy One Steps.  David Nash. 2010. And that’s just what they are, though I didn’t count them. Charred Oak sleepers embedded in coal and slowly merging into the hillside, probably just as he imagined similar to his Barnsley lump of coal on the other side of the park. P1030958P1030953P1030960

At the bottom are the remains of the ornate C17th Lady Eglinton’s well. P1030967P1030965

I was glad I had done the long walk up the hill.

Time for a sit down and a spot of lunch.

YSP MISCELLANY I.

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 Crossing. Nigel Hall, 2006. 

The Campanile was cheap and cheerful, and was only 20 minutes away from the Yorkshire Sculpture Park in the grounds of Bretton Hall, outside Wakefield. I was parking there just after they had opened at 10am, hoping to get a full day exploring some parts of the park I had previously missed and there is always something new.

I decided to to walk the park first and go into the galleries later in the day when the weather was deteriorating. My plan didn’t quite work out.

My must see today is Trap of the Truth – over a hundred works from the quirky Austrian  Erwin Wurm.  I’ve tried to share a video of Wurm talking to Clare Lilley, Director of the park, but technology has defeated me. However if you click on the link below and go well down the page to their 15 minute interview you will be impressed.

https://ysp.org.uk/whats-on/exhibitions/erwin-wurm

What a nice bloke and how innovative. Here are some of his outside sculptures. Make of them what you want, there are a lot of hidden meanings relating to fashion and consumerism. P1030423P1030430P1030442

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Leaving Wurm for now I wander off into the park where round every corner one comes across some new curiosity and probably miss just as many, That is why repeated trips here always pays dividends.

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Family of Man.  Barbara Hepworth. 1970,

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Hydra vs Bear. A fantasy, Jordy Kerwick. 2023.

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Protomartyr. Elizabeth Frink. 1984.  A bonze St. Stephen.

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Barnsley Lump. David Nash.  1981.   A lump of coal slowly disintegrating.

Whilst walking through the wheelchair accessible garden I meet one of the staff, Mick, a retired miner/mental health nurse/ Yorkshireman/grandfather and more. He was passionate about the sculpture park and works a few days a week as a general helper. Time well spent chatting to him.

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Mick. 

 

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Buddha.  Niki de Saint Phalle.  2000.  Glistening mosaics.

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Octopus. Marialuisa Tadei. 2011. More mosaics.

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Sitting. Sophie Rider. 2007. The Mother hare.

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Bag of Aspirations. Kalliopi Lemos. 2013.  Outside the Camelia House. “human lives are valued less than their possessions”

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Usagi Kannon II.  Leiko Ikemura. 2013. Fukushima nuclear disaster,

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A Needle Woman. Kimsooja. 2014.  A needle weaving our lives.

 

Most obtuse quotation/interpretation so far –

“Overall my work can be summarised as an attempt to translate the longstanding historical and political ambitions of traditional figurative sculpture into a revised sculptural language appropriate to the current cultural situation. The aim of my work is to question certainties and stereotypes, introducing a variety of fact and fiction into sculpture that is descriptive but not representative of the ‘real’ world.”   Kenny Hunter. Bonfire 2009.

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And the most apt –

it would be very nice to put sculpture on hillsides or in small valleys, or place them where you think it would be nice for them to be and for everybody to enjoy”  Barbara Hepworth. P1030522

Time for a coffee up at the café. Come back soon.

THE HEPWORTH.

 

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My passport is stamped and I’m heading over the Pennines into deepest Yorkshire. To be honest I hate the journey on the M62, particularly the ‘safe motorway’ sections. Getting around Manchester I witness some crazy driving, weaving between lanes at high speed and undertaking even using the hard shoulder. And that is after I had delayed my departure to avoid the rush hour. Around Leeds more chaos ensued. I was heading to Wakefield, home of the Hepworth Gallery.

Since 1923 the Municipal  Art Gallery in Wakefield has had a high reputation for their collections and support for local artists. But it was time to expand and modernise and in 2011 the new gallery, in Brutalist style. was opened on the banks of The Calder in the city centre. Its aim was to continue to be a leading gallery with contemporary additions and also to house a large permanent collection of Barbara Hepworth’s work, helped by a family donation of her historical output.

Barbara Hepworth was born in Wakefield and went onto become one of our most famous and respected modernistic sculptors. Coincidentally Henry Moore came from nearby Castleford and they were both helped in their early careers by the Wakefield gallery.

I watch the queue of elderly all trying to fathom the complicated instructions of the carpark ticked machine. I am content to sit in the car and enjoy a leisurely flask of coffee after my hectic journey here. Time to slow down before trying my own elderly luck with the machine. The last time I was here was two years ago. A lot of water has flown under the bridge since then, quite literally judging from the volume cascading down the flooded Calder dramatically surrounding the gallery. I’m pleased it is a bright sunny day as much of the light in the galleries comes from the largo windows, and as a bonus they are being cleaned. P1030349P1030136

I am a little disappointed to see this sign on the entrance… P1030134

…needless to say I didn’t.

What’s on? Well apart from all the Barbara Hepworth collection there is a major exhibition of Kim Lim’s work, a collection of new acquisitions, the first solo exhibition of Andrew Cranston, a sound installation by Shenece Oretha and much more. Here is a sample pf the best.

On the stairs to the first floor galleries are four panels relating to the repression of women the world over but particularly in Iran. Women, Life, Freedom. In Sept2022 a young lady in Iran was detained for the incorrect wearing of the Hijab, her death in captivity sparked massed protests in Iran. The posters have been designed by four Iranian women , tellingly living outside their country. A good start to the day, art is never far from politics.P1030369

The galleries are in a circular arrangement from your arrival on the first floor. Its up to you which way round to go. Today I chose anti-clockwise, I think I always do. 

The first room housed the newly acquired  – A Living Collection. varied styles and mediums. The gallery is trying to give a better representation of female artists and those of a diverse ethnic backgrounds. A party of secondary school children up from Chesterfield were busy at work creating their own interpretations. Some were very good. The master in charge was effortlessly sketching his pupils scattered around the rooms. All very jolly and making the gallery come to life. In amongst them were a  Hepworth and a Moore to remind one of the true history of the place.P1030148P1030152P1030168

My own favourites were a bright energetic painting  by a young Jade Fadojutimi, Ob-Sess-Ion,  and a thoughtful print from Jimmy Robert, Frammenti VII, not many Greek Statue subjects were coloured.  

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Mother and Child. Barbara Hepworth, 1934

The adjoining rooms shows  a diverse selection of works from Scotsman Andrew Cranston, What made you stop here? From large scale paintings to small intimate oil and varnish on hardback book covers. The large Echoes, bleach and dye on canvas, had me entranced as did a few of the smaller ones, Granny and the more challenging The Sweet and the Weird, he has a fascination with fish. That is reflected in his larger fish picture which has a humorous tale behind it, which I will leave for you to discover.. P1030276

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P1030177This video tells you more about him and is worth watching. 


I then suddenly find myself in the Kim Lim’s Space, Rhythm and Light. P1030209P1030207

Her career is covered from when she arrived in England in 1954. Prints and sculptures from that time until her death in 1997. Innovative from the start she was prepared to experiment with different materials and travelled widely for inspiration. For the last 20 years of her life she carved solely in stone.

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Time for a coffee in the excellent restaurant.P1030274

A room full of Hepworth, Moore and ethnic statues is given over to Shenece Oretha’s experiments with sound. In her residency here she spent time tapping and touching the different sculptures and recording with high sensitivity microphones. The results are hypnotic and enhance ones experience of the exhibits. I am entranced and try to guess which sound matches which statue. Have a listen.P1030284

The next gallery highlights Barbara Hepworths works, many of them prototypes for larger projects. The surealism was added to by the window cleaner.P1030309

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There is a reconstruction of her studio and more examples of her plaster carving and bronze casting techniques. P1030327P1030330A room given over to The Art of the Potter highlights ceramics from the Wakefield’s collections over the years.P1030333

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The last room is given over to all things Yorkshire with more Hepworth and Moore sculptures and including a painting by a Philip Reinagle, 1793, of the old Wakefield Bridge and Chantry Chapel. The chapel was built in the C14th and is one of only four surving in the England.P1030361Looking across from the gallery window that bridge, now closed to traffic, is visible with the chapel prominent. P1030401Time for a walk out in the sunsgine to take a closer look and bring the picture to life.P1030397P1030383P1030386P1030389P1030394

Now to head to my cheap hotel, the Campanile on a nearby industrial estate, for a good night’s rest before the YSP tomorrow. I can’t face the M62 twice in one day.