Category Archives: Art and architecture.

ULLSWATER WAY – PRELUDE.

Penrith to Pooley Bridge, The Eamont Way.

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The Eamont Way was designated and signed recently, 2023. It leads directly from the front of Penrith rail station, giving a pedestrian route to Pooley Bridge. What an excellent start to reach The Ullswater Way. https://www.ullswaterheritage.org/eamont-way

Rain is in the air from early this morning as I walk to catch the bus to Preston.  The Glasgow train is on time, and I’m in Penrith just after 11 am. There was not much to see on the way up.

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After a look around the castle, a coffee from the outside kiosk, and a bit of faffing whilst it poured down, I’m ready to leave by midday. Welcome to the Lakes.

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There is a map of the route on the wall of the station. The waymarks depict an eel, more on that later at Pooley Bridge.

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So I’m on the lookout for an eel as I leave the station forecourt. And sure enough, there is one on nearly every lamppost along the busy road.

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The guide mentions  Macdonald’s as a café, but there is a proper one down the road on the route.

The motorway passes close by Penrith, and there is a maze of slip roads and roundabouts. Not the calmest start to a Lakeland walk .

But after less than a mile, the way enters the countryside and the sound of traffic recedes.

Under the railway main lines via a couple of atmospheric arched brick tunnels and onto bridleways and quiet lanes. There are no distant views in this weather. I catch a glimpse of the River Eamont over to my left and am soon crossing it on a substantial footbridge.  It is running full with all the rain.

I come into the little hamlet of Sockbridge. A miniature village green provides a bench for lunch.  These are mainly simple cottages, but a larger property stands out. Wordsworth’s House, built in 1699 and occupied by William’s grandfather, Richard, in the late C18th.The first owners, Reginald and Elizabeth Dobson, have their initials (RED) carved over the door. Their granddaughter, a Mrs Collingwood, sold the house to Richard Wordsworth.

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What a charming hamlet, worth exploring further, there is a trail including Sockbridge and Tirril.

Quaker Lane leads out of the village. There is a Quaker burial ground in nearby Tirril. Charles Gough, who died on Helvellyn in 1805, is buried there.  His dog was said to have stayed by his dead master for several weeks. Charles Gough (artist) – Wikipedia

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The bridleway brings me onto the main road, which the Eamont Way follows for some distance. I pass the Gothic Kirkbarrow Hall, now a dairy farm.

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When the footway runs out I have other ideas and want to visit the parish church of St. Michael’s at Barton. So I turn up the next bylane.

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An ornate Lynch Gate, a WW1 memorial, leads into the churchyard surrounding the squat church itself.  The Church has Norman origins, but only the central nave remains from that period. The inside is dark and low, with the central tower splitting the aisle. Many tombstones are old, and I know are listed, but it is difficult to decipher them.

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Curiosity sated I walk farther up the lane towards Barton Church Farm. A public right of way goes through the farmyard past Glebe House and then right through buildings via an archway. (Both are grade II listed). I have a feeling they would prefer it didn’t, and this may be why the Eamont Way doesn’t come on this otherwise historic route. Why would the Eamont Way go down a busy road with no footway? I suspect some C21st skullduggery at play.

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Glebe House 1637

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Barton Church Farmhouse C16th

More open fields now, with limited views westwards towards Ullswater, a smart bridleway, and then open fell with wooded Dunmallard Hill above Pooley Bridge prominent.

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A crowded ‘green holiday village’ is passed. Not my idea of the countryside.

I pass some ‘Inspired by art’ posts placed at the viewpoint used by previous artists. The QR code supposed to reveal the original painting, a good idea, but I fail to get it to work on my phone.

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Some grand tree lined slopes, and I’m suddenly in the crowded Pooley Bridge village. Pubs , cafés and gift shops vying for the throng’s trade.

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I stand below the famous fishing wind vane in front of the Crown Inn and read of the history and connection to the eel waymarks.

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Pooley Bridge had a weekly fish market until the C19th. In the 12th century a charter was granted by King John to hold a fish market in Pooley Village square in front of what is now the Crown Inn. It continued into the C19th. In the summer months large numbers of eel were caught and sold in the area. A market cross with a fish and weather vane, similar to the one you see today, was erected. It stood near its current site, was repaired by Lord Dacre in the 1680s but was removed in 1890s to allow a turning space for the omnibuses bringing visitors to Ullswater. The current Market Cross was erected by Barton Parish Council in 2000 to commemorate the granting of the charter and as a reminder of the village’s fishing origins. The Coats of Arms of the Dacre family and the Hasells of Dalemain are inscribed on the north and south faces of the Cross to acknowledge their historical attachment to the ancient Parish of Barton.

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I’m not staying here, hotels are busy and very expensive, so I board the crowded 508 bus and whizz back to Penrith. My B and B, The Blue Swallow, seems excellent with friendly proprietors.  It’s good to get out of my wet garments. Let’s look at the weather forecast for tomorrow.

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A SUNNY TOLKIEN TRAIL STROLL, WELL MOST OF IT.

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An update on this old favourite.

I must admit I have crisscrossed these paths in a corner of the Ribble Valley many times long before the Tolkien Trail appeared. It’s a popular area made more so by those well known connections of the Tolkien family to Stonyhurst College. I’ve never been a fan of The Hobbit or Lord of the Rings and I don’t know who came up with the idea of this themed walk, but it has been a great success. There are local guides and videos to the walk, some days Hurst Green is overflowing with visitors, many here for the Tolkien Trail. Local businesses must be rubbing their hands.

This afternoon I need a quick walk somewhere and the pin falls on the Ribble at Hurst Green. Parking up at that well known bus stop at Winckley, just up the road from Cromwell’s Bridge. P1080795

I happen to be on the route of The Tolkien Trail but I don’t follow it directly, I walk up the road to meet it where it enters the grounds of the college below St. Mary’s Hall. I pass Gardener’s Cottage which always brings back memories of an engaging young woman who worked as my secretary for awhile, she lived in that cottage, her father being the head gardener to the college.

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St. Marys.

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I approach the Chapel but take the well worn path leftwards near the observatory into the field below the cricket pitch. This is the one where you can ring a bell if clay pigeon shooting is going on, I’ve never known it. This path used to be very muddy approaching the village, but recently has been ‘improved’, all very brutal but perhaps necessary. Instead of heading for Smithy Lane, my usual way, I take a vague path across a field to emerge directly into the busy village green. Millie’s is doing a good trade in ice creams and I avoid the temptation of the cosy bar of the Shireburn Arms. P1080804P1080806P1080807P1080808P1080811

The trail slips through the carpark of the inn. P1080814

There is a wedding celebration going on in the garden, lucky with the sunny weather, and the band is playing Tainted Love which I didn’t think was  the best choice for a wedding. The field is full of cows and calves and a lurking bull. I’m not comfortable in the vicinity of bulls but he seems to have other interests.

Again the footpath has been upgraded all the way down to the Ribble through the woods, which must make coming up the other way from the river measurably better. Himalayan Balsam is taking over in places. You arrive by the river at the impressive aqueduct carrying water to Blackburn.

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It is along here that the path has been surfaced with strips of artificial turf recycled from some football club. Don’t step offside! It is wearing well, a good solution to ‘over’popular paths and preferable in my eyes to the linear gravel overlay that has appeared a little farther. Straight line next to a curvy river don’t go.

People are sat on the seat overlooking Jumbles Rocks where I had planned my usual drinks stop. P1080836P1080837

The river is low and lazy above Jumbles and I watch this swan drifting about. In winter floods you can’t even walk this stretch, it is under fast moving water. P1080830

I move on up river, there is a popup campsite on the other side of the river at Hacking Hall, looks idyllic for families. The reviews for the site are enthusiastic.

Along here I spot a Heron standing guard, he or she is oblivious to the chattering Sand Martins swooping around the sandy banks.

I eventually get my sit down and drink by the confluence with the Hodder, the day is getting hotter. I’m hoping the recent storms haven’t damaged the Winckley Oak, no it is looking very impressive in full leaf. I realise I don’t often see it like this, I must mostly walk this route in winter, that’s also probably why I have never seen the campsite before.

But what’s this? A sign stating the footpath is closed and a newly erected finger post,

I wonder whether this is an official diversion or just the farm sending you round their buildings. I will contact Lancashire County Council about it, no luck yet as I’m having trouble navigating their new website, they never seem to get any easier.  As it happens it is a decent diversion coming out above the farm buildings. It gives a different view of the oak and a good vista to Pendle Hill. P1080860P1080862

The path across the once very muddy fields has also been improved in recent times and I’m soon back at the bus shelter. The domes of Stonyhurst College are fittingly on the skyline. P1080866P1080871

I lose count of the number of people, and dogs, I have passed.  I only miss out the loop around The Hodder today.  One wonders what is the average yearly footfall on the Tolkien Trail? The number of recent ‘improvements’ bears witness to its popularity. How far do the authorities, with diminishing cash, go to promote and gentrify the trail?

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THE TELFORD T50.

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I have never visited Ironbridge, one of the birthplaces of the Industrial Revolution. So when I spotted this 50 mile walk around the area I was intrigued. There is a good website telling you everything you need to know with downloadable maps and descriptions. Being old fashioned I like to have a printed copy so a couple of years ago sent off for the guide. This gives a better insight to the industrial heritage and the natural environment along the trail.

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For all sorts of reasons I’ve not got away for awhile and this was high on my list of trails to explore. There are others on the backburner. The last month has been hectic with a cataract operation and a plethora of other hospital visits, but I find myself with a week free of appointments. A session on a well known website and I have managed to book accommodation for the trip. It was not easy with demand being high in the holiday season, as you will see I have taken individual variations on the sections of the walk to fit in with accommodation vacancies. One could walk all the trail sections based in Telford centre, using buses each day, but that is a faff, and I like to sample the different lodgings as they come along. 

The train service to the area seems good and I have booked the journey, again being old fashioned I have the actual paper tickets to hand. 

A problem arose with finding my cat, Seth, a holiday home whilst I’m away. His usual cattery is having a show down with DEFRA over the size of their feline pens, a couple of centimetres short, and are closed. Seth has never complained in the past. I tried another cattery and they were full for the whole of summer. The third on my list has space for him thankfully, otherwise the trip would have been off, friends who in the past have looked after him at home are no longer with us. 

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“The Telford T50 50 Mile Trail was created to celebrate the new town’s 50th anniversary in 2018. The trail was designed to showcase the many beautiful green spaces, interesting places and industrial heritage”  

This is the route in outline –

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The trail is apparently waymarked but in urban areas the discs have a habit of disappearing. We shall see.

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Time to get the small backpack out, dubbin the boots and create a new category on this webpage, Telford T50. As it is only 5 or 6 days I shall be traveling light with just the clothes I am wearing. 

TELFORD T50 – 6. Wellington, the northern loop.

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“a delightful ramble through the town, woods, local nature reserves and across open spaces”

The best breakfast of the trip set me up for the day.

A well marked route, often shared with the Shropshire Way, takes me through Wellington centre, where I duck down Ten Tree Croft, where cloth was hung in the C18th (tenter) and eventually into Dothill nature reserve. There are extensive woodlands and two lakes. It is dog walking territory. Some of the trees have identification plaques, and it turns out there are 50 of these. I don’t think I can recognise 50 trees. I do a loop around the second lake before another housing estate. Wouldn’t it be good to have the time to follow the whole 50 tree trail.

The path leading to Apley is hemmed in by the dreaded developer’s fencing;. “It was all green fields last year,” a passing couple tell me.

Entering the grounds of the former Apley Hall, one immediately notices the variety of trees that must have been planted in the estate’s heyday. The pool is closed to fishing  due to an infestation with blue-green algae. Several other pools passed this week are in a similar situation.

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One of the reasons to complete this northern loop was to see the famous Yew Avenue. I will soon turn down into it for a wonderful view. I don’t know it’s age, but halfway down is one very old yew. 

I join the Silkin Way, for the last time, a lovely avenue of limes, and some juicy blackberries..

I almost catch a bus back from near here but persist with the convoluted route through housing estates into the centre of Wellington, with a view up to the Ercall and Wrekin at the end. . 

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I have time to spare so go in search of that little middle-eastern café, Dina. I enjoy a bowl of lentil soup and a delicious falafel/salad wrap for the princely sum of £4.  To top it off I go next door to ‘Spoons’, The William Withering, for a £1.79 pint of Ruddles.  Luxury. P1070571

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***

Well that has been a great mini trip. Good to get away for the first time this year. The Telford T50 is a well thought out trail, obviously devised by locals who know the area and the best bits. The guide book is excellent for background information and precise navigation. Waymarking was excellent. There were more ups and downs than I expected. I did about 7,000 ft in the 48 miles I actually walked.

All the joined up green spaces in the vicinity of Telford make the walk feel rural for 90% of the time. Passing through one doesn’t catch much of the wild life that must be thriving here. A  good blueprint for new towns, we should have more of them rather than the haphazard new developments plaguing our rural areas.   

As for history this trail has so much, almost too much, industrial heritage. Everywhere there are detailed information boards to explain that history. And if you have taken to the area, as I was, there so many  other interesting trails to discover.P1080601

TELFORD T50 – 5. Little Wenlock, over the Wrekin, to Wellington.

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“it is a highlight well worth the climb”

I can almost see The Wrekin from my bedroom window but there is a tree in the way. I’ve been able to see its sharp profile from most of this week’s walk, now all I have to do is climb up it. The T50 goes below it with an option to backtrack up to the summit and then reverse the last section – a strange way of doing it. I plan to walk to the far end and then climb up and over with no messing about.

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The first mile or so, on a little lane, is all downhill, not the best of starts. The day is more pleasant than of late with a refreshing breeze. Along the way The Wrekin is visible with its nobbly bits obvious.

I pass the junction where The T50 goes off and walk on, hoping there is a right of way along my planned route. I arrive at the  forest drive and find there is a permissive way. Not by the scout camp but close to it. The estate’s map, which shows the permissive paths clearly. is upside down, which is strange.

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The climbing begins gradually and then levels out going from deciduous to fir trees. There are distant views south with the shapely Caer Caradoc prominent.

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I join the Shropshire Way to go steeply up the western nose of the hill. It is steep and slippery, but I just plod on. The secret is not to get out of breath. A little zigzagging helps. Runners pass me easily, but there are no others coming this way.

First, you reach a volcanic rocky outcrop, where you can pretend you are on Striding  Edge for a while.

A good spot to sit and take in the views south to the other Shropshire hills and distant Wales. Down below to the east is Telford and its satellite villages where I’ve been walking for the last few days. I’m glad I stopped here for the views rather than up at the top, as you shall see.

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Up ahead I can see lots of people at the summit trigpoint, 407m, mainly taking selfies of their achievement. I arrive to find one man leaning on the trig point, talking loudly to his wife on his mobile when others wanted to reach the trig, especially as the base is a work of art. He carries on for over 10 mins, oblivious to anyone else. There is also toposcope to identify distant hills etc, but it is being trampled all over by a trio taking pictures, no doubt to share on Instagram. A right circus, or perhaps I’m being petty. What else do you expect on a popular hill in the summer holidays? I make a quick exit as hordes more are arriving.

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There is a board explaining the hillfort up here, but as usual for me, I fail to make out much on the ground. Could this be a hut circle?

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In my rush to get off I didn’t thread the needle’s eye. The way up for most has actually been concreted at some time, a final degradation of a hill, they are wrecking the Wrekin.

In the woods, lower down peace returns. I stop and sit for a while and admire the beech trees.

Lower still is the Halfway House, a café where I enjoy a coffee in their garden. A nice surprise. I don’t know where everyone parks their cars but is it really halfway? I am told the café has just been taken over by a charity helping ex-offenders, Yellow Ribbon, well done.

Thankfully, the T50 takes a different route to most, and I don’t see anyone else for a long time. What a beautiful stretch of mature forest. Even a fallen tree is showing signs of life again.

A short stretch around a reservoir, and I come onto a minor road. Just as I am about to dive back into the woods, I spot up ahead a hotel serving coffee. I go one better than that and enjoy a well presented serving of tuna and cucumber sandwiches, all in the luxury of their lounge bar. My downloaded map tells me I’m off course!

Back on course, I enter Ercall Woods. An old quarry is seen high up with volcanic overlaid with sedimentary rock, dating from when animal life had begun to change to a having a skeleton, 500 million years ago. 

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Beautiful beech trees give way to sessile oak higher up.

I am not sure which little path goes where, but I reach the fence overlooking that quarry, and that is as high as you can get, The Ercall, 265m. What a contrast to the Wrekin seen across the way.

Coming down I just wander at will, enjoying the peace and quiet, especially after my Wrekin experience. The greenery continues almost into Wellington down below. I’m jolted back to reality by the sound of the motorway, which I duck under.

I come out on Holyhead Road, Watling Street, not far from my B&B, but there across the road is the Wickets public house, time for a refreshing pale ale to replace all that sweat.

My lodgings are reassuringly old fashioned. A shared bathroom down the corridor, mix and match furniture, and electric extension cables all over the floor, all looked after by a delightful lady in her latter years. When did you last have a chocolate marshmallow or chocolate finger?

In the morning I will walk the north Wellington loop before catching the train home.

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TELFORD T50 – 4. Ironbridge to Little Wenlock.

“bear right for paradise”

A day and a half! Lots of walking and lots of sightseeing in the gorge, the ‘raison d’être’ for this trip.

The day starts with a climb up from the river into Lloyd’s Coppice woods. A clear path winds its way through the trees high above the valley. At one time these hills were used for timber and coal mining for the nearby furnaces but all is peace and quiet, a perfect start to the day. And then the steps appeared, climbing higher up Blists Hill. No sooner up than I am going down, Old King Cole style.

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Somehow I go round in circles for a while down at the entrance to Blists Hill Museum, a working village. The museums in the gorge can all be accessed by a rather expensive yearly ticket, maybe good value for  regulars, but of no interest to me just passing though. I will have to be content with the the free bits.

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Blists Hill furnaces

I can see the old railway below me but can’t find a way out of the car park to reach it. Once I read the guide more carefully I’m on my way. I’m back on the Silkin Way, the disused L&NW Railway line which has come down from Telford the easy way. All I have to is walk into Coalport. I pass under Hay Inclined Plane designed to lift boats from the canal below. It is under scaffolding here but more of it later.

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The buildings by the canal, including a YHA, are part of the Coalport China factory, now a museum. The brick kilns are remarkably well preserved, I suspect rebuilt in more modern times, Under a bridge can be seen the end of the inclined plane. High above it connected to the Shropshire canal built in 1790, coal could be transported from the pits to here and then down the incline to the china works canal. Finished wares then shipped down the River Severn close by. The ingenuity of the first industrialists. In 1861 the London and North Western Railway arrived and the canals ceased to function. In the mid C20th china manufacture was moved to Staffordshire.

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I cross the River Severn on the Jackfield and Coalport Memorial Bridge, a WWI memorial, arriving on the doorstep of The Boat Inn, with the heights of flooding marked on the door.

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Going alongside a massive wall, Maws Works, I read that from 1883 -1970 it was the largest tile factory in the world. Local clay proved ideal for encaustic tiles, those decorated ones found in Victorian houses, pubs and churches. Now what is left is a craft centre and apartments.

I pass the Half Moon pub, there seem to be a lot of pubs in the gorge. Those workers had quite a thirst, and now sufficient tourists must keep them open. A bit of rarely trampled greenery by the river and then I’m in Jackfield.

The next major attraction here is The Ironbridge Gorge Tile Museum. I do poke my nose into the Peacock Café of this place and end up with coffee and cake. A lady with her dog is sat on the adjacent table, I complement her dog, always a good conversation starter. She is biding time whilst her daughter and husband paint tiles in the museum (dogs not allowed), and they will be fired and sent on in due course.

A short walk along another old railway, a branch of the Great Western, and I pass the home of Jackfield Brass Band in the old Coalford Wesleyan Chapel. 1825. It would be good to hear them playing in the gorge on a sunny Summer’s day.

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At last I arrive at the Ironbridge Toll House, not looking good under scaffolding. Inside is a little museum telling the story of the bridge. The first cast iron bridge in the world, built in some ways to highlight the progress of the iron industry of the area. It was designed by an architect T F Pritchard, enthusiastically funded by ‘Ironmaster’ John Wilkinson, and built by the Quaker Abraham Darby. It was completed in 1779 and opened in 1781,replacing a ferry across the Severn. Closed to traffic in 1934 and freed from tolls in 1950, the price hadn’t changed from 1781- a halfpenny or a pedestrian.

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It best viewed from the riverside.

All along here are cafes and tourist shops, and yet more pubs. There are some smart cottages and houses, again with well tended gardens.

By the road side are Limekilns used when there was a large amount of limestone quarried on Lincoln Hill above. There is the usual informative board that I have come to expect on these trails.

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The museum near here has no exhibitions any more because of repeated severe flooding, sign of the times. Down the road the co-op is housed in an old warehouse, as is a smart gallery.

Across the way is a steep lane, Paradise, climbing out of the gorge. Soon, I’m back in the woods and a few hundred steps up to The Rotunda. This was originally a covered viewing platform with a revolving seat for the gentry to look down upon all their industries. All that is left is the platform base, and trees are robbing the views.

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Base of the Rotunda.

In my header photo taken from up here you can just make out the Ironbridge in the woods by the Severn, Here’s a zoom to it.

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The woods following have lots of tracks – ‘Sabbath Walks’ devised by C19th industrials to provide leisure for the workers on a Sunday and keep them out of all those pubs.

Bearing left, as I usually do, I never achieve Paradise.

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Soon I’m dropping down into Coalbrookdale.

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Here there is a large historic iron industry complex, The Museum of Iron. I’m not sure what is on display in the Museum but I head straight to the café for a pot of tea, it has been a muggy day down in the gorge. You probably need a tea or something stronger if you have read this far with me.

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In the  grounds are the remains of an early furnace and the attendant infrastructure, including the waterwheel building and the upper pool, which fed it.

Through the many arched viaduct, the Great Western Railway, that ran until 2017. Above are houses on the hillside habited by the Darby families. Dale House, built in 1717, and Rosehill House, built in 1738. They have been restored in the style of the period but close at three. The workers’ cottages are higher still. I meet the dog lady again, with her family, and the tiles painted look impressive.

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The day is slipping away and I have four more miles to go. That is the last of the museums and I’m heading into more open countryside. Back down the hill I go through a little arch into a different land. Loamhole Dingle is a delight of shady paths alongside a sluggish stream.

I escape up steps and follow a lane into Lydebrook Dingle which gives more of the same before steps climb out into fields.

I realise I’ve hardly seen any livestock on this walk – until now. 

Some of the fields are massive – this machine is a modern type of hoe.

I’m quite high up but the distant hills are in haze, although The Wrekin is getting closer. I follow the Shropshire Way into the small village. The Huntsman is all a walker needs, at a price.

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I feel miles from Telford, another world. Tomorrow there shouldn’t be any historical industrial incidents to slow us up, I promise.

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TELFORD T50 – 3. Telford to Ironbridge.

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“Madeley Court Hotel… is open to non-residents and there is a pleasant lakeside bar”

Late morning and I’m doing a diversion to see the C17th Madeley Court. It is surrounded by pools.  I’m hoping to get a morning coffee as it is now a hotel and it is now  coffee time.. But something is strange. There is a heavy presence of burly security men all around and at the entrances. No way are they letting me pass, and they are not for telling me why. “No photographs sir”.  Conspiracy theories go through my brain, but I’m most disappointed about missing that coffee.

Earlier I had made my way past the shopping mecca, all 25 acres of it, at heart of Telford,

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Suddenly, I’m in the Town Park, all 370 acres of it. There seems to be something for everyone in here. Fairground, zoo, paddling pools, climbing wall, lakes, all sorts of playgrounds, cycle hire, and trails going in every direction. The Telford T50 officially starts by the old chapel, which is strangely in the centre of a kiddies play area.  There is the usual map and info, but the first section of the way is closed off for repairs. Not a good start.

I take a nearby road, which soon becomes the T50 with the now familiar waymarks. Families are out for walks, and a few cyclists come by. Along this stretch, I divert to have a look at the 209ft high Stirchley chimney, a remnant of the iron works started in 1790. The whole area was rich in Ironstone, wood, and then coal, limestone, and clay. Can you imagine the activity and pollution back in the heday of industrial production.

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Soon, the waymarks suggest I’m following the Silkin Way, here an old railway, originally a tramway. It goes all the way to Ironbridge directly, but T50 will take in convoluted paths through several nature reserves.

The Dawley and Stirchley station platform has been preserved. Trains last ran in 1952. The ‘line’ goes under an aqueduct, which brought water to the Coalport branch of the Shropshire Canal, which predated the railway.

Along this stretch, I meet a couple in their eighties out for a 15-mile stroll. They regularly do twice that amount, amazing. In contrast, a man on a mobility scooter stops to chat. I notice he is on oxygen. It turns out he has asbestosis, that cruel industrial disease. But getting out as much as he can. All very humbling.

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Now, out of the Town Park, I leave the Silkin Way at an old windmill to head down to Madeley Court.

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After the missing coffee a few intricate paths through flowering meadows, just follow the waymarks, land me in a confusing housing estate, turn on the app. Once extricated, I come across the Dawley Pools, supplying water for the canal in the past. A couple of anglers are just setting up for the day.

I pass more pools, which are overgrown but must be a haven for wildlife. I stroll on through the maze of trees. There are few ancient trees as they were cut down in the industrial era. Mostly, they just regenerated naturally after the pits and furnaces were abandoned. Though new trees have been planted on some of the contaminated brownfield sites.

After crossing a disused railway, there is a newly surfaced path through Rough Park. Alongside bordering a stream, I notice a gate leading to a community willow plantation. Different varieties are being  grown, and there are some willow arches. It would be good to be part of that community.

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The first uphill of the day and a series of those dreaded steps lead up into a more open area of Rough Park looking north. A bench provides a suitable lunch spot. Dog walkers appear from all directions, all very friendly and proud of their woodland walks. Buzzards are soring overhead.

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Housing that I navigate through next shows little architectural imagination. More housing is destroying a wooded area. I see notices up asking people to object to overdevelopment of their green spaces. I think it is too late.

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Further on, I walk through a smaller nature reserve maintained by the community. Let’s hope the land is safe. Another small nature reserve follows now looking out over the wooded Coalbrook Dale, 500ft below, the Wrekin pops up its head as usual.

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All of a sudden, I’m in the  little lanes above Ironbridge. Workers’ cottages, some a few centuries old, display some lovely cottage garden flowers.

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One cottage squeezed into a junction is delightfully named The Wedge of Cheese.

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A plaque on an other records the birthplace of Billy Wright, the famous footballer from the fifties, if you remember.

Across the road was the old pub where the nine Madeley miners bodies were taken to after the mine shaft disaster of 1864.

Off route I find a steep stairway dropping all the way down to the Severn, Wisteria archways and little wild spaces add to its charm.

This brings me out right next to the remains of the Bedlam Furnaces which I wanted to see. All that remains are the rear walls and foundations of the engine house, bellows house and one of the furnaces. All is covered by a big tent and the casting area where pig iron would have been run into sand moulds would have been in the car park. Most people drive by without a look.

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Bedlam Coalbrookdale. c1780s.Edward Dayes.

You’re familiar with the word ‘bedlam’, a chaotic scene. The word emerged as a nickname for the early asylum, The Bethlem Hospital, established in London way back in the C15th. The scene in the early C19th painting below hints at the conditions in the valley in those days.

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Coalbrookdale by night. 1801. Philip James de Loutherbourg.

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I walk alongside the River Severn to reach my comfortable abode for the night, ‘Ye Olde Robin Hood Inn’. 

It’s been a long day with lots of history below my feet. I am ready for a pint of Holden’s Black Country beer, brewed in Dudley.

***

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TELFORD T50 – 2. Lilleshall to Telford. (Plus an Abbey)

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“the ruined medieval Lilleshall Abbey is some distance from the trail – best left for another occasion”

It takes 10mins to walk to Telford central station to catch a bus to Lilleshall. The crossing of the road and the rails in the futuristic bridge is dramatic. The buses are running half an hour late, and it is Lille-shawl not Lilles-hall! The bus goes around the houses, and one  begins to realise the size of this not-so-new town. I just looked it up, and the population is 190,000 almost the size of Preston. I have not started from where I finished yesterday, it all looked a bit too built up and I’m not a slave to the guide. (Probably means I’m walking the Telford T45)

My Bus app tells me when to get off, right outside of the church in Lilleshall. I have a look inside, although it dates from Medieval times, most is Victorian.

I plod up the lanes where there are some prime properties in a prime situation. A lady asks me about my walk and then tells me of some Abbey ruins not to be missed only a mile or so away. I half take it in, as often people underestimate walking distances. I’m more concerned at the moment with climbing the hill to see the view and the Duke of Sutherland monument.

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Up to now, it has remained hidden despite being on of Shropshire’s landmarks. The views improve as I climb, and a board tells me what I am looking at. The Wrekin is the stand-out feature and I hope to climb it later in the week. But other Shropshire hills are in view as well as distant Wales. Years ago, I completed a round of the Shropshire tops with my old mate, Mel. I shall have to revisit my diaries to check what we did. That was when we did 20 + miles a day, and now I am happy if I get up to 20 kilometres.

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The Duke of Sutherland is a controversial figure, hated in Scotland for his cruel Highland clearances. Yet here in the Midlands, he seems to have been a good landlord and philanthropic manager. I seem to remember climbing to a monument to him just outside Stoke. His monument here is certainly impressive and dominates the area from the 132m hill.

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I am soon back in the village, and there in  front of me is a footpath heading towards Lilleshall Abbey, which I’ve checked on the OS map, maybe a mile away. Decision made I climb the stile.

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Once away from waymarked, named trails, the state of public footpaths may vary. The next mile emphasised this. Not many come this way. The paths take erratic ways across the open fields, needing careful navigation ( that means using my phone to keep me right) Then, I’m faced with a field of corn through which no one has ventured this season. I walk  around the edge and escape onto the road. This is how public rights of way are lost,  I’m not being a hero today.

The Abbey is just off the road, modestly signed. But wow, what a place it turns out to be.  I marvel at its size and some of the intricate carved sandstone. The surviving abbey buildings almost all date from the late 12th and early 13th centuries.

The English Heritage web site gives a potted history – https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/lilleshall-abbey/History/

After wandering around I find a seat for a break and snack, I’m glad I came.

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Back along the road to pick up the T50 as it crosses fields towards housing at Muxton, on past the impressive golf course, and then into Granville Country Park.

This area was the centre for a thriving iron production industry as well as extensive coal mines. In 1764, the Granville family set up a company to develop the mineral resources on their land. This became the Lilleshall Company in the early C19th. A canal was constructed as well as rail lines eventually to facilitate the transport of materials. Some of the earliest blast furnaces in the country were constructed.

All is now disappearing under vegetation. The coal mines closed in 1979, and the land reclaimed. I spot bits of industrial heritage. The canal basin is remarkably intact, and some of the massive furnaces are still visible.

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There are interpretation boards everywhere so here is a concise guide to Iron making to get you up to speed.

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It is pleasant wandering through the woods with good waymarking on the myriad of paths. The birds are heard but not seen and there is prolific plant colonisation of the waste land. I just wish there were more insects about.

There are quite a lot of steps encountered which seems to becoming the norm for this trail,  the whole area undulating because of former mining operations.  One flight of steps takes me to “The top of the world.” Old spoil heaps giving more great views over Shropshire with The Wrekin as prominent as ever.

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Housing developments are creeping in everywhere. The open countryside and views disappear behind high fencing.

I’m getting ready for a break and some lunch when on the corner appears a pub, the New Cottage, . It is in the process of being modernised, probably not for the better. It doesn’t look inviting but a drinks a drink. I sit outside with a pint of Sharp’s Atlantic Pale Ale, all the way from Cornwall, and eat my sandwich.

A few streets, and I’m going around the water of Priorslee Lake (The Flash), a pleasant interlude with people  picnicking and fishing. All this minutes away from busy roads and housing, the essence of new town planning. There was talk of building more new towns to solve our ‘housing crisis’ rather than the haphazard development occurring on edges of our towns and villages.

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The route takes me through the older part of Priorslee village with cottages originally built for the iron workers and the odd house for the bosses.

Pedestrian alleys take me over roads and railway back to the centre of Telford. The road I was hoping to use was closed so I braved a dual carriage way for a time.

Quite a long day in the heat. I’m moving on tomorrow, down to Ironbridge. 

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TELFORD T50 – 1. Wellington to Lawley.

P1070628“the former opencast pits have only recently been restored to green fields”

A long day. Half the day is spent getting here. My bus ride before 7am into Preston was interesting.  No delays as it is school holidays and for a change there were no roadworks. At one stop, I witnessed a simple fraud carried out by a couple of lads. The first gets on the bus, buys a ticket, and promptly out of sight of the driver throws it out of an open window  for his mate to board the bus with! Would never have thought of that. Of course, it won’t work if an inspector appears, but when did you last see one of those.

Preston is not joined up transport wise. It is a 15min walk to the rail station from the bus station, but I try to factor that into my planning and have time for a coffee. Usually works. Change at Crewe. “Oh, Mr. Porter, what am I going to do?” always springs to mind. Another change at Shrewsbury, and I’m on a Welsh speaking train. It’s only one stop to Wellington where there is a distinct Midlands’ accent as soon as you step out of the station.

I immediately take the wrong turning and am lost, it is easily done in towns. It’s best to rethink and slow down, I head back into the centre and into a little Eastern café for a coffee, a bargain these days for £1. The food looked and smelt good. I may try it when I’m back here in a few days on my circular route.

Refreshed, I find my way across town, whose Medieval buildings will have to wait until I’m back. I do however pass the site of a former Chad Valley Toys building, I remember those. A little further and there is a blue plaque to the painter Cecil Lawson – I had to look him up.

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At last I’m on Limekiln Lane, which gives a clue as to past industries hereabouts. Limestone was mined and quarried in the 18th and 19th centuries and used as a flux in early iron making. I’m probably following the old tramway taking lime and stone to Wellington, situated on the important Watling Street.

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At some stage before going under the motorway, my first Telford T50 roundel appears, I have probably missed some in town. These red, or are they pink or purple, waymarks thankfully become a regular guide to the walk.

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I find  that within the first few pages of a written guide, one either likes and trusts the writer’s style or one resorts to the map and intuition. So far, it’s early days, but Anne Suffolk seems to be on the mark in both general information and directions. The maps in the guide are too small a scale to be useful for serious navigation, but they give a general idea of the route. I have downloaded the route map onto my OS app on my phone for when I’m lost. This is the first time I’ve employed this system, I’m slowly getting up to speed with modern technology. The app map hasn’t been needed in earnest yet.

This an easy lane to drive up and dump rubbish.

The limekilns would have been used to produce quicklime for mortar, lime wash, and soil fertility. Charcoal used first from the abundant woodlands and then coal from nearby provided the high heat necessary. Once into the woods I can I peer down into the tops of several kilns in amongst the trees, the brick work still clearly visible. It would have been interesting to see the kilns from below. There must be a track down there somewhere. The woods and open glades, being on limestone, are rich habitat for orchids in season, which, of course it isn’t, Yellow ragwort seems to be everywhere this year.

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Onwards and forever upwards, I hadn’t read the contours. The next stretch is more open, and the site of old bell pits and shallow shafts for the coal seams lying close to the surface. Coal mining here continued even into this century, but all is greenery now. Some of the open cast areas can just be made out.

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An old tramway. 


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Spoil heap next to track. 

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Recent open cast remains.


?flooded old bell pit.

?an old flooded bell pit.

After getting on for two hours of steady climbing, I reach a minor road at New Works. ‘New’ relating to the the C18th Darby family development of the area for coal to supply their furnaces at Coalbrookdale. No doubt more of this later in the walk, there is so much historical information in the guide book, on the many interpretation boards I’ve already come across and on the internet. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coalbrookdale#Industrial_Revolution

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Now there is only a collection of modern bungalows with good views over Shropshire and no doubt beyond. My route takes me on to the ‘Trundle’, not an expression I have come across relating to paths. Anyhow, a good wide surface takes me down through the woods to emerge onto the main road through Dawley/Lawley.

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The new builds here appear well constructed and interesting architecturally. All these suburbs are part of Telford new town, which started in 1968 trying to preserve some of the green networks and industrial areas. The Telford T50 was designed to reflect these and was to commemorate the 50 years since the start of the works. There is a prominent Mormon Church here and I get all the local information I need from one of the many dog walkers. Until now I hadn’t met anybody on the trail.

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As usual, a golf course appears on a long-distance walk, and this is where I go wrong for a while. Waymarks disappear, and I feel I’m trespassing, but with persistence, I emerge unscathed. It looks like a challenging course for the golfer as well as the walker.

I walk around peaceful Horsehay Lake, the pond for the iron furnaces and foundries. The lake remains, but the rest has mostly disappeared. What does remain, though, are the rows of workers’ cottages. Delightful Old,1750, and New,1830. I could live in one of those. 

And what is on the corner? A fish and chip shop. I can’t refuse the chance of a chippy lunch sitting looking over the lake. The ducks get my scraps.

The Telford Steam Railway looks a jumble, lots of work for the dedicated volunteers to get stuck into. I’m sure on a weekend when Steam is running it will be more exciting.

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The way forward coincides with The Ironstone Way, there seem to be lots of well-used trails in the area. I’m supposed to be walking alongside Lawley Common, but new developments have taken over.  Many obviously, since the guidebook was published in 2019.

The speed at which we devour the countryside is frightening.

I find myself in Morrison’s  café for a cup of tea. Those chips were salty. I had thought of going on a few miles or so, but it looked like suburbia all the way, maybe I am wrong, but I’ve had enough, 7 miles this afternoon, and call it a day.I seek out the bus stop reputably adjacent to Morrison’s. There is a bus in 5 minutes, obviously nobody seems to know where from. Why would they, they have all driven here. As I get onto the main road, my bus goes sailing past to stop a couple  of hundred metres farther on, but too far for me to catch it.

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Am I in Dawley or Lawley? I seek help from a lovely Indian man running a takeaway grill on the street. He phones for a taxi, and while waiting, we put the world to right. Should give his café a shout-out, but I didn’t get its name.

I was soon transported to my lodgings for the night, only two miles away – the Ramada in the centre of Telford.

A very comfy room and a deep bath. With eating those chips mid afternoon, I settle for a pint of Camden Town pale ale and some crisps in the bar.

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***

Screenshot 2024-08-10 202015

CHIPPING IS STILL BLOOMING.

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Bowland is a good place to be. I have friends around me today to isolate me from the worst of world affairs, did you listen to PM Netanyahu’s (a potential war criminal) vile speech to congress yesterday?  We, five former colleagues all in our dotage, set off from near that iconic Bowland red phone box in the hills beyond Chipping.  I don’t know the plan but I’m in the hands of the resident local ‘guide’, sometimes it’s just good to go with the flow, even for me having a somewhat ‘in control’ psyche.  P1070401P1070402

It is all familiar for most of us but none the worse for that as we tramp westwards across the base of the fells. A posse of cows watches us from the hilltop. This is curlew country par excellence and I’m pleased to report we saw and heard several. P1070400

You may remember this ford crossing from the other day, again no one fell in. P1070404

There are eggs for sale today at Saddle End, I have brought some loose change for half a dozen. We go through a gate helpfully signed Chipping, I don’t think I’ve used before, this is exciting. P1070406

Our ‘guide’ leads us down a vague path, over a footbridge and up again to suddenly find one of those favourite P&NFA signs in the middle of a field. All well off the beaten track. 

We drop down to the imposing house above the mill dam, once the house of the millowner. Yes I have been this way before. P1070412

The party straggles out as we wander through the old chair works, due for some sort of redevelopment. I’ve often wondered what the steps were going down to the brook, Ian doesn’t know but says he will ask a friend living here the next time he sees her. Well the next time he sees her is a few minutes later when she walks up the lane. She remembers her family going to the brook to wash clothes. Another one of life’s problems solved.  P1070413

We catch the others up and dive into the busy Cobbled Corner café for pots of tea, soup and sandwiches. Well recommended. P1070415

I repeat my tour of the grave yard to visit Lizzie Dean’s grave under the ancient yew. Have a look at my last post on Chipping for the video tale of the whole tragic episode.

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Casting aside the sadness we enjoy the blooms in the village, It has reached the finals of the competition. P1070417

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All is very familiar to many of you as we leave the village and enter the grounds of Leagram Hall with its lovely trees. That’s Pendle in the background. P1070428

We don’t continue to the sheep farm but cut across the park to pick up a footpath to Knot Hill. I often find this difficult to follow but today our local ‘guide’ leads the way unerringly.

All that remains is to follow the bridleway down to the ford and up the hill to our ‘guide’s’ house. A mooch around his garden and then coffee before we all disperse after yet another enjoyable Bowland walk, about 6.5 miles. P1070395P1070398

Interestingly our one lady member is leading a walk tomorrow of friends, they call it the Chatterbox Walk. I’m thinking us men should form a group for more regular walks – the Silent Saunter.

***

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CHIPPING IN BLOOM.

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It must be that time again, when our local villages vie for the best in bloom. Chipping was all aglow this morning with some stunning displays, helped by the bright sunshine. I think they often win as the community makes such a good joint effort. 

But we hadn’t come to see the flowers, we had a short walk in mind in the hills above the village. Our more ambitious trip to Ilkley Moor was delayed to another time. I had strained my side in a difficult balancing act at the top of steps attacking my overgrown hedge a couple of days ago. JD suggested this as a gentler stroll, and it was forecast to become very hot, which did transpire.

The basic straight forward walk out of the village through the grounds of Leagram, up to Saddle Side farm lane and back via Wolfen, Tweedys and Kirk Mills has been done so many times, often described here for example. Ideal for the wounded. Parking up at the village hall, JD announces he won’t bother with his boots – everywhere will be dry underfoot. I suggest boots could be better if we decide to go ‘off piste’. I am already plotting a cross country variation if my injury wasn’t worsening. Old habits die hard.

We stroll through the village, as I said resplendent in bloom, past the old watermill and out on the Leagram road. P1070347P1070348

Walking into the estate is always a joy with the beautiful aged trees,  although I see one oak has succumbed. The southerly hill in the background is Longridge Fell.P1070351P1070354

I have been reading ‘How to read a tree’ and can recognise on this tree the south side branches growing horizontally towards the sun whilst the northern side grow more vertically to try and catch the light. What do you think? P1070353

At the sheep farm JD knows the farmer and we have an extended chat with him on all things sporting, village related and political. He never mentions his sheep which produce some tasty cheese. 

Soon we come to the sign Lickhurst and Stanley, one of those classy P&PFS, which would give us an option of visiting the hidden Burnslack valley, which neither of us has done for awhile. Decision made we set off on a good surfaced lane going to Park Gate, (this was all a deer park in the past) and heading for the fells. But we leave it on a non existent way to a forded crossing of the brook. I take a photo half expectant of a dipping, but JD is as sure footed as a goat. My poles help me across. P1070358P1070356P1070360P1070362

I won’t describe our onward pathless progress across the next fellside, except to say we arrive on the Stanley track some time later. Cutting back I have another attempt to photo JD’s potential soaking. No luck. P1070365

Burnslack farm, now houses, must be one of the remotest inhabited properties on this side of Bowland. The path is sensibly diverted to give them privacy. Two owls keep an eye on us as we pass through. P1070367

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Looking back to Burnslack Farm.

An ancient way leads to the next farm, Saddle End, along the base of the fell. There are the remains of several barns along here, traces of cobbles, and fresh water springs. Sir Hugh will appreciate the in situ taps on one of the farmer’s baths collecting he water.  P1070372

Up here we find a place to sit for the highlight of the day, JD’s hand crafted vegetarian pasties. One can’t call them Cornish, they are well and truly Lancastrian. My neighbour gifted me a jar of home pickled red cabbage this week so I have brought some along as a perfect accompaniment. We eat like kings with a view to match. P1070371P1070369

Sheep shearing is progressing at Saddle End.P1070373

The afternoon is steaming hot so we take the easy option down to the lanes leading back to Chipping. I am hoping for some farm eggs at the lane end but I’m out of luck. Mills line the Chipping Brook telling of iron foundries, bobbin making, cotton and chair works. All gone.  The ‘millowners’ house overlooking the pond is perfect for the situation in contrast to some of the new housing creeping up the valley. P1070375

In the churchyard I show JD the grave of LIzzie Dean, behind which there is quite a tale. To tell it I suggest you watch this video.  

Needless to say we have a pint in the said Sun Inn to celebrate a lovely walk and a cautious return to summer weather. 

***

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A SABDEN CIRCUIT.

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I fully recommend this walk.

It is based on yet another Walks with Taste. leaflet. I don’t start it at the Higher Trapp Hotel for several reasons. I still, after several years, avoid some venues for complex emotional reasons, the Higher Trapp is one of them. Besides it is a restaurant venue, not suited to my sweaty after walk pint. I suspect its gardens and views over the surrounding parkland will be in superb condition today, see for yourself one day. I also like honest Sabden as a base.Screenshot 2024-06-22 173109

Admire spectacular views of Pendle and the South Pennines as you pass through pastoral countryside. The trees along the route are also particularly interesting, with the route passing through beautiful old beech woods on the lowland, following the shapes of weathered trees on the high ground”  Sounds good doesn’t it? 

I park in the village centre, there is plenty of street parking as well, as a pay and display, take your choice. Sabden was originally a farming and quarrying community, but the water quality of the brook that runs through the village led to cotton-manufacture and calico printing. At one time there were seven mills in the village and workers must have travelled from much farther afield. I will be walking some of their ways today. As it happens I start my walk past the one remaining mill building, now used for diverse commercial premises. Union Mill.    P1070068P1070073

The route out of the village has at one time been cobbled and as I slowly gain height gives good views back to Sabden with the bulk of Pendle rising behind. P1070076P1070078

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Up the hill are some of those trees mentioned in the blurb above. P1070085

There are god views across the Sabden valley and over to Whalley Nab. P1070092P1070095

I come out onto one of the small delightful lanes that seem to wander through the hills up here. P1070094

At New Hall they have an unusual floral display of Petunias in ‘pots’.P1070099

Down through more beech woods…P1070101…and then I recognise the country lane I meet, Whins Lane, the original medieval road between Whalley and Padiham before the turnpike road was built lower down in what is now Read. Along here are the posh houses of Read boasting large gardens and views south across the valley.

I stop to take a photo of an amusing cluster of ‘snakes’ painted on old ivy roots when the lady of the house appears to offer me anti-venom if needed. She says the children love them – I have to agree. P1070104

I cross Trapp Lane (where I should have started)…P1070108…and march on along past the sawmill thinking to myself that it would nave been better to have taken to the fields and woods above the lane. After a quarter of a mile I realise I should have done and backtrack to find the rather hidden stile. P1070115

Nobody seems to have walked this way across the fields but the stiles are obvious.  What’s that building up to the left? I’m soon entering some impressive beech woods. Another world.
P1070117P1070121P1070122P1070123P1070124I emerge at Priddy Bank and weave through the private properties. P1070128

Another hidden gate gives access to a rather boggy hillside, I notice the nearby property has planted large leaved Gunnera to take advantage of the moisture. P1070129

Onwards and upwards in the rough field with no obvious path but I keep coming across stiles until I’m faced with a field of hefty bullocks. P1070132P1070136

They crowd around me as soon as I enter the field, I back off and take a diversion on my side of the fence as they follow me closely on their side. P1070137

Eventually out of their range I am able to climb the fence and proceed in the field up to the road at Black Hill unhindered.P1070138

From up here there are wide views south over Padiham to the Rossendale hills, the photo doesn’t do it justice.P1070139 It’s all down hill from here but beware, don’t take the stile directly ahead  but keep to the right side of the fence to avoid very boggy ground. A wooden stile brings you out of the field into rough ground for the descent to Sabden, which is seen in perspective to the road dropping down from the Nick of Pendle. Silver birch trees dominate this last slope. P1070147

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Old terraces of mill workers’ cottages make up a lot of the village. P1070153

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I find myself in the beer garden of the Pendle Witch inn for a pint of Moorhouse’s Brewery’s White Witch. My table companions had been up Pendle, we share stories in the sunshine. Perfect. There is no mention of the Sabden Treacle Mines!P1070064

***

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THE LONGEST DAY.

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For the Summer Solstice I choose another leaflet from  Walks with Taste – Visit Ribble Valley. – this time from the Three Millstones in the village of West Bradford. It promises an “Amble along the well-trodden banks of the Ribble admiring this remarkably quiet section by a hidden industrial quarry”.

I drive through West Bradford often but don’t think I’ve ever stopped off to explore. This morning I park at the Three Millstone Inn, after seeking permission. The village derives its name from its situation at a historic ‘broad ford’ at the nearby Ribble. Over the centuries the descriptive name of Broadford became  Bradford. The West was added in the late 19th century to differentiate the village from its much larger Yorkshire neighbour.  Somewhere there has been a cotton mill on the site of an older corn mill but as I walk out of the village this morning I don’t identify it, even though I spy a Mill Street sign. The stone cottages would have housed the workers. P1060975 P1060978

The Mill stream runs down the centre of the village helping to create some interesting gardens. P1070049

I’m soon out of the village and onto the northern bank of the River Ribble for the meat of the walk. I’ll be close to the river for the next three or four miles, the path is well worn and favoured by dog walkers. If you look closely at the pictures you will see a couple of Labradors swimming towards the weir to enjoy a ride down it. I bet they do that every day.P1060981

P1060984P1060985The river is flat calm for a stretch and then along come small rapids. I would think that at the moment the water is medium height, the whole aspect changes in flood conditions. Pendle looks on from afar.
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Coming back on the opposite bank is equally pleasant and there are woods giving some shade on what turns out to be a hot day. In the distance Kemple End on Longridge Fell keeps popping into view. All along this stretch to my left are abandoned limestone quarries which have grassed over and become part of the rural landscape, their extent can be seen on the map. I’m soon back at Bradford bridge. P1070005P1070007P1070014P1070011P1070019

But instead of following the suggested route straight up to the village I take another loop of the Ribble around the cement works in order to visit Crosshill Nature Reserve and part of the sculpture trail which I have previously described in detail  here. P1070025

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Once back at the Three Millstones I sit outside (it’s more of a ‘gastro pub’ inside, their lunch menu looks good and reasonably priced) enjoying a decent pint of Blonde Ale from Reedley Hallows brewery in Burnley, I’d never heard of them before.
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***

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***

Later watching England play football on TV it certainly does feel like the longest day.

KENDAL CALLING.

I had this to say back in March. “After my recent soaking on Longridge Fell I decided on some indoor culture for Tuesday. There were some interesting exhibitions at Abbot Hall Gallery in Kendal. I drove up in horrendous wet conditions on the motorway, found somewhere to park, £3.50, and walked to the hall only to find it only opens Thursday to Saturday at this time of year! Why didn’t I check? I phoned Sir Hugh in Arnside hoping for some sympathy and coffee, but ironically he was in Preston shopping. Drove back down the motorway in more horrendous wet conditions. Hope I didn’t get a speeding fine.”

So Kendal has been calling me back ever since. The exhibitions I wanted to see are still on, but not for much longer. Time to enlist my cultural friend Clare, of ‘slate poem’ fame.  I kept my camera in my pocket for most of the day, you will have to visit yourself.

After parking we get distracted by the adjacent imposing Holy Trinity Church. P1060939 Screenshot 2024-06-08 184354

On entering the church you are immediately struck by its size, a central nave with two aisles on either side. One of the widest churches in England.

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Photo from kendalparishchurch.co.uk

We wandered around admiring the stained glass windows and various chapels. A shaft of an Anglian cross dated approximately AD 850 took my attention, I’m fascinated by ancient crosses, their history and importance. Clare was drawn to a tapestry depicting John Speed’s 1612 map of Kendal.  Threads Through Time, a community effort, commissioned by the Environment Agency and the church to celebrate the history and heritage of Kendal and its related Flood Risk Management Scheme.. This early map is significant because it highlights the important links between the town and river, and references the town’s woollen trade. 

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Unveiling of the tapestry June 2023. Facebook.

*

Abbot Hall is just across the park. It isn’t very welcoming from this side, somehow we go in via a side door and end up in the café from where complicated stairs lead us back to reception.  I have an Art Fund Pass which gives me free or reduced price to most galleries. My card shows an expiry date of May 2024, I suspect I have kept this one and thrown the new one away! I pay up the £12 fee which does at least give you access to Abbot Hall for a year. 

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The back side of Abbot Hall, or is it the front?

There are four themed exhibitions on display at present. Art Herbarium, Lakeland Art collection of Portraits, Claude Cahun prints and Gilbert Spencer. We just follow our noses around the charming intimate rooms. As a distraction there are are views of the grounds towards the river from the windows. P1060919

But first there is a room dedicated to The Great Picture which depicts family history of Lady Anne Clifford (1590-1676) and her fight for her rights.  Painted during the English Civil War by a Jan van Belcamp (1610-1653), a Dutch artist. “it is a rare celebration of the life of a woman from that period”.  Not easy to photograph.P1060917

Art Herbarium.

A selection from their collection focusing on nature. John Ruskin was represented as was an ‘unidentified Sea Captain’. Beautiful flower paintings by Winifred Nicholson and the even more exquisitely illuminated letters from the Cumbrian artist Percy Kelly. P1060920

Portrait Galleries

Contemporary artists, such as Kendal-based artist Lela Harris have been invited to exhibit alongside the Abbot Hall collection. Highlights from the collection include works by George Romney, Joan Eardley, Lucian Freud, Hilde Goldschmidt, Victor Pasmore, Celia Paul, Kurt Schwitters, Stanley Spencer and Charmaine Watkiss.  P1060921P1060923

Claude Cahun.

An exhibition of giclee prints blurring and distorting her age, identity, and gender. Born Lucy Schwob, she adopted the pseudonym Claude Cahun in 1917 to free herself from the narrow confines of gender. All a little unnerving to my delicate palate. P1060925P1060926

Gilbert Spencer.

 A selection of this English painter’s major works. “Painter, muralist, illustrator, teacher and writer, Spencer’s career spanned more than six decades. During his lifetime he was recognised as one of the leading artists of his generation and one of the most successful art professors; teaching at the Royal College of Art, Camberwell College and Glasgow School of Art”  His brother Stanley Spencer is possibly better known. Of particular interest here is the time the artist and his students were evacuated from London to Ambleside in the Second World War. There was a series of cartoon like sketches from his time in the home guard. P1060928P1060933Screenshot 2024-06-09 185440P1060930

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And one I particularly liked in memory of the ardent Wolves fan Dave. P1060932P1060931

 *

On the way out we spotted a statue in the church grounds. A quick park up revealed this to be a beautiful wooden carved piece by James Mitchell, unveiled only last week based on Speed’s map of Kendal we had been looking at in the church. The Kendal Parish Riverside Sculpture.  This was another commission by the Environment and Kendal Parish Church as part of the flood relief scheme. “It is made from an Oak tree that came down during storm Arwen which was kindly donated by Bill and Ali Lloyd and came from their farm in the Upper Kent Valley. This 170yr old tree was a vital part of the ecosystem and helped slow the flow and nourish our landscape. The map shows Kendal as it was then and is populated with parts of that history and wildlife. It shows the valley and is headed with the hills of the Kentmere horseshoe. The other side of the tree is an abstract form that represents the flow of the river, the contours and texture of the landscape and the stunning beauty of the wood itself.”

Why had neither of us taken a photo of the tapestry?

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James Mitchell carving. Facebook.

On the way home was an opportune time to call in on Sir Hugh for cha and chatter. 

*

This afternoon whilst writing this post I can’t get a certain song out of my head  – Kendal  no, but it’s London Calling, a post punk hit from the 80’s. Joe Strummer at his pomp. Not to everyone’s taste but it will liven up a dull Sunday. 

REVISITING THE FOOTHILLS OF PENDLE.

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Another  leaflet from  Walks with Taste – Visit Ribble Valley, this time setting off from the Assheton Arms in Downham.  

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 “This adventurous three-hour hike explores the foothills of Pendle, offering extensive views of the Ribble Valley, before diving into the wooded valleys beneath its flanks”  

It promised to be a good one. In fact when I think back I did an almost identical walk in reverse a couple of years ago, but that was then.

I’m joined by JD today. I arrived at his house and then realised I hadn’t brought the said leaflet so a bit of backtracking before we get going. We are still parked up in Downham before 11am. Soon enough for a short 5 mile walk. P1060910

All of the tracks today seemed well used by ramblers with good signage in the main. A popular area, and deservedly so. The scenery is classic Ribble Valley farmland with the limestone bed rock giving excellent walking and varied flora, all under the gaze of Pendle Hill. 

The first part was gently uphill passing idyllic farms on the undulating northern flanks of Pendle. P1060850

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On our way down towards Twiston we stopped for a bite in a sheltered limestone quarry below Hill Foot. We had time to observe the unique flora in these limestone undisturbed meadows. Identification of the individual species was not all that easy.  P1060888

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 And we had time to take in the fine view of Pendle from our perch.  P1060886

Passing the silted up mill pond of Twiston and then the old mill itself. then alongside the beck to a footbridge and up to yet another farm, Springs. Here we met up with a sunken track over Wooly Hill, which I’d never visited. There is a Roman road marked on the map – were we on the course of it back to Downham. The OS are not always accurate with marking Roman Roads. 

Throughout the walk we experienced a variety of stiles in the stone walls, some now neglected and bypassed by the functional wooden gate. At least none of those newfangled metal gates have arrived yet. Have a read of what outdoor writer John Bainbridge has to say.

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This or that? 

I have just remembered somewhere on the way we rescued, with difficulty, a sheep who had its head stuck through a wire fence. No harm was done to her or the fence, but JD suffered knee bruising when the released sheep ran straight into him and I ended up with stinking trousers where I had been kneeling in her shit.

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The afternoon ended well with a pint of Bowland beer outside The Asheton Arms as befits this series of summer walks. This has been a quick visit to our route but one worth you trying someday.P1060911

Oh, and one more picture of Pendle from the porch of St. Margaret’s Church..P1060915

***

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CICERONE’S LANCASHIRE – GREAT HILL FROM ANGLESARKE.

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Walk number 30 from Mark Sutcliffe’s walking guide. 9 miles.

I’m sat in the shelter at the top of Great Hill having a lunch time snack. There is a cheeky cool wind from the north.  I’m chatting to a bloke who has come up from Rivington the opposite way round to me. My hard work is over and I’m confident about the next couple of miles on the flagged path across Redmond’s Edge which I walked a month ago. Once again there are no distant views, Longridge Fell can just about be made out in the distance, but no hope of photographing it.

The day started badly with half an hour looking for my camera back at base. It was hidden in a shopping bag in the car yesterday whilst I visited Sainsburys. I know I shouldn’t hide things these days as I never remember where. I end up like a demented squirrel searching for his nuts.

Calm restored and another coffee drunk before I venture out onto the motorways. I’m soon through Chorley, past The Black Horse, the Bay Horse and The Yew Tree. Funny how you remember an area, all pubs we used to drink in after climbing in Anglesarke Quarry.  I park on the road just above the quarry but there is no sign of anybody climbing there today. How the trees have grown and obscured the buttresses. P1060733

Dropping back down the road I take the obvious way alongside Anglesarke Reservoir and onto High Bullough Reservoir. I don’t seem to recognise the way at all despite countless traverses before. P1060735P1060738

A random photo appears at Bullough Reservoir with no explanation. Here is what I found later. “John Frederick La Trobe Bateman FRSE FRS MICE FRGS FGS FSA  (30 May 1810 – 10 June 1889) was an English civil engineer whose work formed the basis of the modern United Kingdom water supply industry. For more than 50 years from 1835 he designed and constructed reservoirs and waterworks.” There is a lot more about him on Wikipedia, he had an amazing career. P1060736

A chance encounter with a walker in a group, extolling the virtues of ‘Trekking Poles’. I concur with him, having used them for forty or more years, ignoring the comments back then – “where is the snow”. But this chap is serious, having attached heavy weights to his poles to give him a full body workout. I’d never heard of that before. Impressed or perplexed I continue with my feather light poles.

There are some lovely trees along this stretch, I like the way those three have gown as one – Entangled Life. P1060742P1060743P1060739

I recognise the road near Waterman’s Cottage nestled between the trees at the end of the reservoir.  I popped out here once to see Bradley Wiggins flying past on a training run, remember him?

I hesitate my way forwards, but a lady points me across fields in the right direction to White Coppice. We fall into step, she explains that she is six weeks after a new knee operation. You would hardly know as she keeps up a good pace whilst waiting for her husband, freshly retired, to catch up. I relate to her my friend Sir Hugh’s first knee operation and the thousands of miles he covered and even after his second new knee he was still averaging 10 miles a day. I hope I have given her encouragement to eventually go beyond what her specialist has mentioned. We part company at White Coppice as they head for lunch in Brinscall. I don’t get to take a photo of the iconic cricket pitch as I keep to the right hand fell side of the Goit.  P1060745

This is then the steep bit. Up from the sign, which at first looked like one of those erected by Peak and Northern Footpath Association, but no, this is a Ramblers copy. A surprising number of people are climbing up this way. Can you see the white Mormon tower in the top centre?P1060747P1060746P1060751

At the end of the steep bit are the scattered ruins of Coppice Farm with an excellent information board including a map of the abandoned farms to the north of Great Hill. Can you imagine farming only 5 acres up here? They presumably would have been largely self-sufficient with the occasional trip down to market to sell and to buy.

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Onwards. I’m envious of the runners who effortlessly pass me and disappear into the distance. Distant memories in deed for me.  

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At a cross roads of paths another Ramblers sign appears. What is the Thomas Lockerby Footpath Fund?  “It uses the income from the assets of the Fund to preserve, maintain or improve public footpaths and bridleways located not more than 50 miles from Manchester Town Hall.” Do we need this proliferation of signs on the already well used paths? Would the funds not be better spent on gaining more access to the countryside within 50 miles of Manchester?P1060766

Onwards I pass another abandoned farmstead, Drinkwaters. I should nave looked for their spring water supply.P1060771

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Onwards the summit comes into sight but it still feels a long way off. P1060786

I’m passed by a youth running bare chested with no spare clothing. He does however have his head phones on so has missed the sound of the wind and the skylarks. Of course he stops at the summit for a selfie and then disappears back down. Make of that what you want. Off road cyclists are looking more and more like trail motor cyclists, which is in fact what many of them realistically are. Old age grumpiness over. P1060793P1060794

The way across the ridge is indeed easy with all those flagstones. Everywhere around me is bleak moorland enriched in parts by the nodding white cotton grass. All I have to do is find the path going west downhill 300m before the Belmont Road. Did I pass it just then, I backtrack but am not convinced. I come back and there within 5m it is. Obvious. P1060802P1060803P1060804

Pleasantly downhill towards more abandoned farms, Higher and Lower Hempshaw’s. Not much left standing. P1060808P1060812P1060815

I cross a stream onto a track and then take the wrong “grassy track by a tumbledown wall” There are tumbledown walls everywhere. All is not lost as I do a longer loop on a land rover track above the Yarrow Valley. Another ruin is passed, Simms. The scenery is changing from the bleak uplands to green fields and wooded cloughs with Rivington reservoirs in the background. One forgets how close to Bolton and Manchester we are. P1060817P1060818

Not concentrating I miss a faint path going right into trees and find myself at junction of paths in Lead Mines Clough which I recognise. I need to be farther north so I head up the stepped track leading to the Wellington Bomber Memorial, remembering a 1943 aircraft crash nearby. For a detailed description and more information I recommend reading – Bomber Zulu – Anglezarke.net

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By now I’m well lost, there are paths everywhere and I end up getting my phone out to plot a way back Jepson’s Gate. A final stroll down the road and I’m back at the viewpoint carpark.  P1060729

Todays walk felt like stepping back in time with the ancient tracks, mine workings and abandoned farms.  I have a book which paints an intimate picture of those lives only a hundred years ago.  Lost Farms of Brinscall Moors – Carnegie Publishing  What will the scenery look like in another hundred years?

***

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A RAMBLE AROUND CLITHEROE.

P1060609Another from a leaflet in the series of Walks with Taste in Ribble Valley, this time setting off from the centre of Clitheroe. I’m becoming lazy with route planning and relying on someone else’s choice, Ribble Valley BC this time. It promised “starting from Holmes Mill, wandering through the grounds of Clitheroe’s Norman Castle to the River Ribble for an easy riverside ramble” P1060718

I park in a side street in Clitheroe near Holmes Mill which has its own small pay and display carpark. The place is just opening up and I will sample its delights later in the morning.

My first objective is Clitheroe Castle and I navigate a series of steep and sinuous paths to reach its ramparts. Arriving at a terrace  there is an ornate stone turret, strangely from the Houses of Parliament, presented to the borough by its MP (Sir William Brass) in 1937, in commemoration of the coronation of King George VI. Also known as the Pinnacle, it dates back to the mid-1800s when there was rebuilding work at the Palace of Westminster after a fire. P1060604P1060594P1060600

On the next tier is the oft photographed  war memorial, a sculpture of a soldier standing in a mourning pose with head bowed.  The main inscription reads “Erected by the inhabitants of Clitheroe in grateful remembrance of their fellow townsmen who gave their lives in defence of their king and country in the Great War 1914 – 1918”. The sculptor was Louis Frederick Roslyn,  (incidentally you will see the same figure at a memorial in Slaidburn) P1060608

On its rocky limestone outcrop the remains of the castle keep rise above me , up yet more steps. Built in 1186 by Robert de Lacy, the Norman keep, reputed to be the second smallest in England, was in an important strategic location. After the death of Henry de Lacy in 1311, the castle passed to the Earldom of Lancaster, and then became the property of the Duchy of Lancaster. The castle was used during the Wars of the Roses, but was soon in a state of disrepair and it  was damaged further by Parliamentary forces during the English Civil War. The castle was privately owned until 1920 when it was sold to the local council to establish a memorial to the First World War.

The medieval buildings associated with the castle have all disappeared. In the eighteenth-century Castle House in the castle grounds is a museum which of course is not open a this time of day. P1060605

I climb to the top for views over the Ribble Valley, into Yorkshire, the cement works and the nearby Pendle Hill. All a little hazy. I do spot the  white Waddow Hall, at the base of the Grindleton hills, I’ll soon be walking close by it. But first I have to find my way down. 

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Leaving the grounds I notice one of the Tercets installed at intervals on The Lancashire Witches Walk enjoyed with Sir Hugh back in 2016. P1060626

I made a special effort to come and see Dandy, the Black Dog last week and here I am again walking past him near Booths Supermarket.  The Platform Gallery at the railway station is open so I have a look around at the art and crafts on display resisting any attempt to purchase. P1060631P1060634P1060635P1060636

Time for some proper rambling. I make my way through familiar streets down to Brungerley Bridge and my reunion with the River Ribble for the third time in thee outings. A gentle stroll downstream and I see the imposing C17th Waddow Hall on the opposite bank. It has been used by girl  guides for decades but now the Association in their wisdom has decided to sell it. P1060644P1060650P1060655

The river has been placid until now where it flows over a weir and cataracts down the valley. This is where water would have been taken off into a leat for the mill downstream. Out of the woods and past all the horsey fields and tidy allotments. Down here was once a mill village, Lowmoor. In 1928 when the mill closed, there were 200 houses (many back to back), nine shops, a National school, church and two Methodist chapels. The mill was demolished but many of the houses remained now being swallowed up by a modern estate on the site of the mill. P1060657

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I pop out onto the road between the Swimming Pool and gym and head back to the river at Edisford Bridge. I walked this section less than a week ago. The riverbank being popular with young families. Still no Kingfisher.P1060667P1060668

 Across the road, the one leading to the tip, and at last onto new ground –  a field path alongside Pendleton Brook.  A hazy Pendle Hill in the background. New housing is spreading out here and soon after the railway bridge I’m hemmed in.P1060671P1060675

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Did an architect actually design this.

I recognise the buildings of Primrose Mill, an early cotton mill, which have been tastefully converted into office spaces. At Scott Bridge the culverted Mearley Brook heads through the complex before joining the for aforementioned Pendleton Brook. A fish ladder has been built along this stretch to give fish access to higher water beyond the dam of Primrose Lodge, Having spent thousands I wonder has anybody told the fish. P1060681P1060682

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Looking down onto the fish ladder.

 

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Fish ladder in construction.     ribbletrust.org.uk

Rather than walk along the road I take to the Primrose Nature Reserve which follows the valley of Mearley Brook beyond the lodge. At the end I escape up a cobbled street towards the church.P1060683P1060692P1060696

It’s noon when I find my way into the Holmes Mill complex. A former C19th Textile Mill, it was the last working cotton mill in Clitheroe, steam-driven until 1973.  Historic England  tells you all about it.  In the last ten years redevelopment has resulted in a cornucopia of beer, food, ice cream, cinema, bowling alley and hotel. I head for the Beer Hall, said to have the longest bar in England, and home to Bowland Brewery. I choose their new season pale ale – Happy Hedgehog and find a quiet corner to enjoy. There are more waiters than customers. As well as the Bowland Beers the bar holds at least 40 other drafts. Next door is the engine room with a steam engine in situ. The bistro and foodhall  are packed with customers. P1060698P1060712

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Four and a half miles and I was home for lunch. More of a verbal ramble than actual walking.

*** 

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RAMBLING ON THE RIVERBANK.

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My enthusiasm in last weekend’s sunshine for getting an early start has waned. Today I’m still faffing about late into the morning, procrastinating over the weather and a suitable walking route. But the weather is improving so I shouldn’t miss the day. Whilst I was in Clitheroe I picked up half a dozen leaflets describing walks based on local pubs. Walks with Taste in Ribble Valley. published by Ribble Valley Borough Council and sponsored by Whalley Warm & Dry, a trusted outdoor shop.

I find on their website there are more, 16 in total and all downloadable.P1060494

For convenience I choose the one starting in Hurst Green, 15 minutes away. 

“This riverside ramble starts from the Shireburn Arms and descends through farmland to the River Ribble, crossing the impressive footbridge at Dinkley, then following the river downstream towards Ribchester, returning through the woods and pasture to  Hurst Green.”

I have walked this way many times but never tire of it, a route for all seasons. So lets go.

Parked in Hurst Green by 12 am. I take the familiar Lambing Clough Lane down to the dilapidated farm, Trough House. I can never tell if anybody actually lives here, a few years ago there was an invalided lady struggling on. There must be life as there are cars about and pullet eggs for sale.  (Pullet eggs are small, extra-rich eggs laid by young chickens. Loved by chefs, they are not usually found in Supermarkets. and often go to egg powder factories)  £1.50 for a dozen Michael!   I buy six and use my waterproofs to hopefully transport them safely.  A good start to the day.

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Trough House.

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Pullet eggs.

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Shopkeepers.

I cross the heavily engineered new Dinkley Bridge, which has replaced an earlier, damaged, suspension bridge and an even earlier ferry.  One of my old posts from 2015 illustrates that earlier bridge. Today the Ribble is in playful mood down the rapids, I have seen it in full spate here –  a sight to behold. P1060543P1060546P1060551

I wander down to the sandy beach which was probably thronged last weekend. You can find a wide variety of geological pebbles down here.  Strangely I find a decent garden trowel which goes into my backpack. 

Then the sheep cropped turf is a delight to walk along. A meeting with a Blackburn Muslim couple gets me talking about early days vegetable shopping in Whalley Range, Blackburn and the Chapati and Dahl cafes back in the 70’s. P1060553P1060556

Into Marles Wood, a tangle of tree roots. Trees seem to be having a tough time recently with lots blown down in the area.P1060562

The river is fast flowing through the gap into Sales Wheel where it all calms down again, I’ve seen it much worse.P1060569P1060570P1060566P1060568

I escape from the trees onto the road for the unavoidable mile long trudge to Ribchester Bridge. The river will be flowing faster than I am walking. Along the way…

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Salesbury Hall.

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Manor Court Offices.

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Elderflower wine?

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Ribchester Bridge.

The lane past the timber store, signed The Ribble Way, has been resurfaced and I’m soon back on the riverbank for awhile. This section can be difficult, flood debris, tree roots and the river itself encroaching on the path. All good fun. I push my way through Himalayan Balsam  which will be more troublesome later in the year. P1060497P1060509P1060510P1060511

A metal gate, despite being bypassed. is probably safer than a dilapidated wooden stile.

I never quite know where to go after leaving the woods away from the river. Vaguely up the field, down to a stile and up the next field to an oak tree and gate. It’s up here you get those views down to the Ribble and Dinkley Bridge with Mother Pendle in the background, Onto a lane above Heyhurst, down again to a footbridge and then alongside fences. My leaflet gave decent directions. Shame that the Ribble Way is denied access to the Ribble for long stretches. A failed project.  P1060527P1060525

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I walk through a sea of buttercups. The cows are back in the fields, time for me to start heading to the fells. At least this lot are lying down – said to be a sign of rain in country folklore. (Cows are more likely to lay down when they’re chewing their cud rather than when expecting a storm.)P1060532P1060529

I’m back where I started almost, why didn’t I wait till back here to collect the eggs? It did come onto rain along the road to Ribchester Bridge but as you know my waterproof was being used as safety wrapping for the half dozen eggs.

By the time I reach the top of the lane I’m ready for a pint in the Shireburn Arms. Bowland Brewery beer and a packet of crisps equate to the calories my phone says I have used on the walk. C’est la vie.  P1060585

Another point, regarding the Trade Descriptions Act, less than two miles of this nearly six mile riverbank walk were on the riverbank. Blame that on the anglers and landowners denying us access to our rivers.

I’ve enjoyed it none the less – a classic Ribble walk. 

***

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ALL HALLOWS CHURCH, MITTON, AND A BLACK DOG.

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Following my morning’s walk to Clitheroe and back by the River Ribble I had time to look around the church in Mitton, which was fortunately open. It features in Simon Jenkins England’s Thousand Best Churches.

The church dates from the late C13th.

Inside, the chancel screen includes some medieval woodwork, which possibly came from Sawley Abbey,  after the dissolution of the monasteries.. There are ornate carvings on it.

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In the C16th a chapel was built on the north side of the church to house memorials of the staunchly Catholic Shireburn family from Stonyhurst. The alabaster tombs, dating from the 16th to the18th centuries. are said to be some of the finest in England. This is where it gets complicated, all of the men commemorated by the effigies in the chapel were named Richard Shireburn.

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The first Sir Richard died in 1594 shortly after the chapel was built. and is buried with his wife Maud, with voluminous petticoats. The detail on the carving is exquisite. It was created in the Royley family workshop in Burton-upon-Trent.P1060432P1060434

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Sir Richard’s son died in 1629 and he is remembered by a large plaque on the north wall, depicting Sir Richard junior and his wife Catherine, kneeling in prayer, plus smaller images of their children.  Two of the children are pictured in a bed, suggesting that they died in infancy.  P1060425P1060423

Three more altar tombs along the north wall are to the next succeeding generations: Richard (d.1668), Richard (d.1689) with his wife Isabel ( d.1693) and their son Richard (d. 1690). it was Isabel who commissioned the four marble effigies in the chapel before her own death in 1693.  These were I think sculptured by William Stanton of Holborn, London.

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Richard Shireburn, d.1668.

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Sir Richard d.1689 and wife Isabel.

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Richard Shireburn d. 1690.

A monument on the west wall, is to Richard Francis Shireburn, (grandson of Richard and Isabel), who died in 1707, aged nine. The centre piece is thought to be his mourning mother. Screenshot 2024-05-28 222428P1060415

On the floor is a badly eroded figure of a knight in armour, the notice tells the story. P1060435P1060436.

What a unique chapel telling the story of the Shireburn family whose legacy lives on in Stonyhurst School. Here it is seen from outside with the date stone and Shireburn family coat of arms above the door.P1060481P1060476P1060478

Whilst I’m outside in the graveyard I search for two Grade II listed historical relics – a sundial and an ancient cross.

The sundial is a tall inscripted, sandstone shaft dated from 1683. P1060460

The medieval cross has a C14th round head on a more modern shaft. The head depicts scenes from the crucifixion. It possibly came from one of the monasteries after dissolution. P1060462

Not far away up the lane is the base of another medieval cross. Whalley is close by and there would have been trade with Sawley Abbey.

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*

And now for something completely different.  I drive a few miles into Clitheroe to seek out a new statue that Sharon of Sunshine and Celandines pointed out. A black dog prowling the streets, it’s just outside Booths supermarket.

We are at the heart of Pendle Witch country and several of my posts have reflected on their troubled history. Only recently I was exploring the The Pendle Sculpture Trail  and in the past followed the Lancashire Witches Walk.  A black dog was often associated with so called witches, and this one relates to James Device. He was one of the ten accused back in 1612 and was found guilty of witchcraft and hung at Lancaster. He had named his spiritual black dog Dandy.

An evocative statue made from stainless steel by Darwen based Marjan Wouda. It was certainly getting plenty of attention from the Saturday shoppers. A Devilish looking black dog.

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BOTH SIDES OF THE RIBBLE – A MITTON ROUND.

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Its four years since I last did this walk. https://bowlandclimber.com/2020/07/07/the-ribble-between-mitton-and-clitheroe/   

I’m up early. Seth, my cat, demands his breakfast at 6am.. Out of the kitchen window the Weigela shrub is looking splendid in the morning sunshine, a good start to the day.

P1060325P1060326Too good to go back to bed. I’m motivated to get out there and do a walk. This one springs to mind. 

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I’m parked in Mitton by 9am, a record for me. This time I walk the route clockwise. Leaving the road down a tree tunnel and I’m into open meadows. The grass is still damp from the overnight dew. Vast open blue skies surround me and entice me onwards, it’s that sort of morning. The way is not clear but I follow my nose between the occasional stile. Glimpses of Kemple End vie with the view of Waddington and Easington Fells ahead of me. Territorial fishing interests keep me away from the Ribble at this stage. 

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The public footpath comes to an end on a little lane, ahead is a busy road but fortunately a concessionary path has been established to meet up with the Ribble and follow it into Clitheroe. (shown only as a black dotted line on the OS map) The signage says head for the yellow circle which unfortunately I can’t see. Heading in the right direction it becomes apparent at a gate next to the ‘bear chair’, which is looking worse for wear.P1060342P1060343P1060346

The path drops steeply down through the woods to run alongside a loop of the Ribble. I haven’t met anybody so far but spot dogwalkers on the opposite bank which I’ll be following shortly.  P1060348P1060350P1060354

Out through the damp woods to the road at Edisford, Pub and Bridge. The signage is rather strict and restrictive but at least the concessionary path exists – too many of our river banks are no go areas. P1060355P1060356P1060359

This stretch of river, on the outskirts of Clitheroe, is a popular picnic spot due to nearby parking and also an adjacent camp site. Even early today there are people in the water, which incidentally has just received DEFRA designated bathing water status – whatever that means. There are more dogs in the water than humans however.  P1060363P1060369P1060366The path now continues back along the true left bank of the river. I’ve seen Kingfishers here, but not today.  One is soon away from the razzmatazz of the picnic area only to find oneself on the busy little road to Clitheroe’s Waste Recycling centre. Past this there are only a few houses before the road ends and one is back into fields close to the river. I notice a reminder of the Covid restrictions and on the water Canada Geese are protecting their young whilst fishermen discus the best spot. 

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The river is very calm along this stretch with only one weir for measuring the flow.P1060386

The cows are back in the fields but seem very docile, too intent on chewing the new grass. Pendle Hill doesn’t look far away, synonymous with the Ribble Valley.P1060385

I’m approaching the end of the walk and the path climbs up onto a promontory above the river. This sandy cliff is home to hundreds of Sand Martins at this time of year and they fill the sky, too fast to photograph. There are lots in the photograph below.P1060394

Across the river are the Church and Hall of Great Mitton and then I arrive at the road next to the Aspinall Arms, before they open for the day and too soon for a pint.  Once a coaching inn known as the Mitton Boat. A ferry boat operated across the River Ribble before the present road bridge was built in the C19th. This was the border between Lancashire and Yorkshire before the reorganisation.P1060395P1060396

I re-cross the river on another fine stone bridge and this is where you get that long view of the River Ribble winding its way under the gaze of Pendle. A view I never tire of. P1060400

Once safely over, it is a busy road, I climb up the hill to admire the old Hall. P1060403

The Three Fishes across the road has reopened as a fine dining venue, out of my price range I fear.P1060405

And there, next to where I parked my car, is All Hallows Church, dating from the C16th. P1060470

It has an interesting interior which I had been denied before, but the church was open today so I got to explore – but I think I will leave that to another post on a rainy day, along with Dandy, the black dog of Clitheroe!

This has been an easy four and a half mile walk in perfect weather with lots of variety, which I’m sure most of you would enjoy.