Monthly Archives: June 2024

ABOVE WADDINGTON.

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“A pleasant  ramble through the pastures above Waddington and up onto the fell for breath-taking views over the Ribble Valley before returning via pretty wooded ghylls”.

Another in my present summer series based on pubs in the Ribble Walks with Taste – Visit Ribble Valley 

This time we have a choice of three pubs in the picturesque village of Waddington and I combine two of the walks starting from here. I do have my favourite pub which will become clear towards the end. JD and I pick up KP from Chipping and manage to find a challenging potholed narrow lane through Bowland to Waddington. How come it’s raining after the last few days heat wave? The village is alive with early dog walkers.

We first take a well used lane from the back of The Lower Buck past glacial deposited Pinder Hill, the site of a Bronze Age burial mound, and then a farm where sheep shearing is in full progress.

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Unusual wall – leaving Waddington.

 

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Newly shorn.

 

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Longridge Fell in the distance.

Then we dive into rural paths where few tread, although the waymarking is reassuringly good. A concessionary path takes us around Lower New House and into an overgrown tunnel of shrubs. Page Fold looks impressive with Porche and Ferrari parked in the court yard. We take to the fields and skirt Colhurst Hall which I was hoping to see. 

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Do you remember? They used to run together.

 

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Emerging from the tunnel.

Down Rabbit Lane to the ancient Braddup House, dated 1669, where a bridleway heads north in rather wet plantations. Would be a nightmare in winter.  Even when we come out of the trees the going is rough in reedy marshy fields. Height is gained onto the lower slopes of  Waddington Fell. It would have been good to have carried on up to the summit but the footpaths run out before the open access begins and beside we didn’t have time. One of those iconic P&NFS signs appears, we take the path towards the fell road.

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Braddup House 1669.

 

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The boggy bit.

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Waddington Fell.

We are looking for a spot to have a break but the cold wind deters us. Around the isolated Daisy Hill which I see is a listed C17th farm house, should have had a closer look. The next few fields are a little overgrown with no obvious path, well we don’t find one, but do reach the road. This is the road going over the fell to Newton. We spot in the distance houses where the Moorcock Inn used to be in the past, do you remember it? We reminisce on meals there and friends departed.

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What path?

Looking at the map the next section along Mill Lane and through properties looked complicated but in fact is well signed and the natives are a friendly lot. Not sure how the planning permission process works for all these upmarket houses. We drop down to Waddington Brook but don’t follow it directly down what looks an interesting ghyll but climb back out to above the woods. The cattle have churned up the ground and therefore the going is not easy, we are glad of our overdue break taken on a large log. It is from up here that there are views across the Ribble Valley over Clitheroe to the ever present Pendle. We are coming up to a General Election next week and there have been some boundary changes, Gerrymandering comes to mind as Clitheroe, at the heart of the Ribble Valley, has been transferred to Pendle, I don’t expect the residents were consulted.

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Rough ground. Pendle and a murky Clitheroe

As we loose height towards the covered reservoir at Feazer Farm we have a grandstand view of four walkers trying to find a way out of the enclosure. Our instructions tell us to skirt round to the right and we emerge into the farmyard with no problem. The four flustered lady walkers, on holiday from York, are glad of our directions. The question often arises on these outings – why don’t the farmers make it easier for us, and hence them, by adequate waymarks?

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Spot the ladies.

A hidden path goes over a high stone stile and then easily down the field towards tall sycamores and Waddington. We come into the village alongside the ‘Hospital’ Alms houses. Their history is worth a read. Ladies only may apply.

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The right direction.

 

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Alms houses’ gardens.

Waddington is always full of flowers.P1070201

As I said there are three pubs to choose from in the village, we choose the friendly Lower Buck for an after walk drink in the sunshine. 

A good day out with friends though not the easiest of walks to follow from this series. 

For a little more information on the area and pictures have a look at my post from July five years ago.

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A SABDEN CIRCUIT.

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I fully recommend this walk.

It is based on yet another Walks with Taste. leaflet. I don’t start it at the Higher Trapp Hotel for several reasons. I still, after several years, avoid some venues for complex emotional reasons, the Higher Trapp is one of them. Besides it is a restaurant venue, not suited to my sweaty after walk pint. I suspect its gardens and views over the surrounding parkland will be in superb condition today, see for yourself one day. I also like honest Sabden as a base.Screenshot 2024-06-22 173109

Admire spectacular views of Pendle and the South Pennines as you pass through pastoral countryside. The trees along the route are also particularly interesting, with the route passing through beautiful old beech woods on the lowland, following the shapes of weathered trees on the high ground”  Sounds good doesn’t it? 

I park in the village centre, there is plenty of street parking as well, as a pay and display, take your choice. Sabden was originally a farming and quarrying community, but the water quality of the brook that runs through the village led to cotton-manufacture and calico printing. At one time there were seven mills in the village and workers must have travelled from much farther afield. I will be walking some of their ways today. As it happens I start my walk past the one remaining mill building, now used for diverse commercial premises. Union Mill.    P1070068P1070073

The route out of the village has at one time been cobbled and as I slowly gain height gives good views back to Sabden with the bulk of Pendle rising behind. P1070076P1070078

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Up the hill are some of those trees mentioned in the blurb above. P1070085

There are god views across the Sabden valley and over to Whalley Nab. P1070092P1070095

I come out onto one of the small delightful lanes that seem to wander through the hills up here. P1070094

At New Hall they have an unusual floral display of Petunias in ‘pots’.P1070099

Down through more beech woods…P1070101…and then I recognise the country lane I meet, Whins Lane, the original medieval road between Whalley and Padiham before the turnpike road was built lower down in what is now Read. Along here are the posh houses of Read boasting large gardens and views south across the valley.

I stop to take a photo of an amusing cluster of ‘snakes’ painted on old ivy roots when the lady of the house appears to offer me anti-venom if needed. She says the children love them – I have to agree. P1070104

I cross Trapp Lane (where I should have started)…P1070108…and march on along past the sawmill thinking to myself that it would nave been better to have taken to the fields and woods above the lane. After a quarter of a mile I realise I should have done and backtrack to find the rather hidden stile. P1070115

Nobody seems to have walked this way across the fields but the stiles are obvious.  What’s that building up to the left? I’m soon entering some impressive beech woods. Another world.
P1070117P1070121P1070122P1070123P1070124I emerge at Priddy Bank and weave through the private properties. P1070128

Another hidden gate gives access to a rather boggy hillside, I notice the nearby property has planted large leaved Gunnera to take advantage of the moisture. P1070129

Onwards and upwards in the rough field with no obvious path but I keep coming across stiles until I’m faced with a field of hefty bullocks. P1070132P1070136

They crowd around me as soon as I enter the field, I back off and take a diversion on my side of the fence as they follow me closely on their side. P1070137

Eventually out of their range I am able to climb the fence and proceed in the field up to the road at Black Hill unhindered.P1070138

From up here there are wide views south over Padiham to the Rossendale hills, the photo doesn’t do it justice.P1070139 It’s all down hill from here but beware, don’t take the stile directly ahead  but keep to the right side of the fence to avoid very boggy ground. A wooden stile brings you out of the field into rough ground for the descent to Sabden, which is seen in perspective to the road dropping down from the Nick of Pendle. Silver birch trees dominate this last slope. P1070147

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Old terraces of mill workers’ cottages make up a lot of the village. P1070153

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I find myself in the beer garden of the Pendle Witch inn for a pint of Moorhouse’s Brewery’s White Witch. My table companions had been up Pendle, we share stories in the sunshine. Perfect. There is no mention of the Sabden Treacle Mines!P1070064

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THE LONGEST DAY.

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For the Summer Solstice I choose another leaflet from  Walks with Taste – Visit Ribble Valley. – this time from the Three Millstones in the village of West Bradford. It promises an “Amble along the well-trodden banks of the Ribble admiring this remarkably quiet section by a hidden industrial quarry”.

I drive through West Bradford often but don’t think I’ve ever stopped off to explore. This morning I park at the Three Millstone Inn, after seeking permission. The village derives its name from its situation at a historic ‘broad ford’ at the nearby Ribble. Over the centuries the descriptive name of Broadford became  Bradford. The West was added in the late 19th century to differentiate the village from its much larger Yorkshire neighbour.  Somewhere there has been a cotton mill on the site of an older corn mill but as I walk out of the village this morning I don’t identify it, even though I spy a Mill Street sign. The stone cottages would have housed the workers. P1060975 P1060978

The Mill stream runs down the centre of the village helping to create some interesting gardens. P1070049

I’m soon out of the village and onto the northern bank of the River Ribble for the meat of the walk. I’ll be close to the river for the next three or four miles, the path is well worn and favoured by dog walkers. If you look closely at the pictures you will see a couple of Labradors swimming towards the weir to enjoy a ride down it. I bet they do that every day.P1060981

P1060984P1060985The river is flat calm for a stretch and then along come small rapids. I would think that at the moment the water is medium height, the whole aspect changes in flood conditions. Pendle looks on from afar.
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Coming back on the opposite bank is equally pleasant and there are woods giving some shade on what turns out to be a hot day. In the distance Kemple End on Longridge Fell keeps popping into view. All along this stretch to my left are abandoned limestone quarries which have grassed over and become part of the rural landscape, their extent can be seen on the map. I’m soon back at Bradford bridge. P1070005P1070007P1070014P1070011P1070019

But instead of following the suggested route straight up to the village I take another loop of the Ribble around the cement works in order to visit Crosshill Nature Reserve and part of the sculpture trail which I have previously described in detail  here. P1070025

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Once back at the Three Millstones I sit outside (it’s more of a ‘gastro pub’ inside, their lunch menu looks good and reasonably priced) enjoying a decent pint of Blonde Ale from Reedley Hallows brewery in Burnley, I’d never heard of them before.
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Later watching England play football on TV it certainly does feel like the longest day.

FATHER’S DAY.

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A gentle aside.

I don’t ever remember celebrating my Father on any special day way back when I was a child, though I did make lots of fuss of him as he crept into old age before it was too late. He died in 2005 and I paid homage to him more recently here, where you will hear some good music.

The idea of a special day to honor fathers was probably introduced from the United States where it has been celebrated for a century or so.

Mothering Sunday on the other hand was an existing Christian celebration dating from  medieval traditions. Commercialisation has taken over and both days are now largely a shopping excuse.

Putting that aside I am pleased when my two sons plan to visit me, along with some of their progeny and partners. They do offer to bring food but I am happy to prepare a feast and get in the drinks to celebrate the day. They normally eat me out of house and home but today grandson J is mountain biking in the Peak and A is bouldering out in Fontainebleau. So we are down to six and two dogs, Gizmo always wants to be centre of attraction, as can be seen from my header photo. 

My cat Seth senses the arrival of their two dogs and disappears upstairs for the day. After tea and cakes we take the opportunity to get up the fell whilst the sun is shining and develop an appetite for the curries to follow. The dogs love the freedom of the planation and charge off through the bracken after some unknown scents. We walk sedately around. Gizmo the larger dog can’t wait to get into the water of the little becks which have been swelled by all the recent rain, the more refined Phoebe is not so sure. The gap over one side stream seems to have widened and the party use different techniques crossing it with only the odd wet foot or paw.P1060953

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On the way home we call in at Craig Y bouldering venue so S can show L the hidden pleasures. What a good photo opportunity of us all on the rock. 

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Three generation ‘bowlandclimbers’

The meal is a success and they all depart in time for me to watch the first England game of the European Cup whilst I wash up.P1060957

Thanks lads. 

KENDAL CALLING.

I had this to say back in March. “After my recent soaking on Longridge Fell I decided on some indoor culture for Tuesday. There were some interesting exhibitions at Abbot Hall Gallery in Kendal. I drove up in horrendous wet conditions on the motorway, found somewhere to park, £3.50, and walked to the hall only to find it only opens Thursday to Saturday at this time of year! Why didn’t I check? I phoned Sir Hugh in Arnside hoping for some sympathy and coffee, but ironically he was in Preston shopping. Drove back down the motorway in more horrendous wet conditions. Hope I didn’t get a speeding fine.”

So Kendal has been calling me back ever since. The exhibitions I wanted to see are still on, but not for much longer. Time to enlist my cultural friend Clare, of ‘slate poem’ fame.  I kept my camera in my pocket for most of the day, you will have to visit yourself.

After parking we get distracted by the adjacent imposing Holy Trinity Church. P1060939 Screenshot 2024-06-08 184354

On entering the church you are immediately struck by its size, a central nave with two aisles on either side. One of the widest churches in England.

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Photo from kendalparishchurch.co.uk

We wandered around admiring the stained glass windows and various chapels. A shaft of an Anglian cross dated approximately AD 850 took my attention, I’m fascinated by ancient crosses, their history and importance. Clare was drawn to a tapestry depicting John Speed’s 1612 map of Kendal.  Threads Through Time, a community effort, commissioned by the Environment Agency and the church to celebrate the history and heritage of Kendal and its related Flood Risk Management Scheme.. This early map is significant because it highlights the important links between the town and river, and references the town’s woollen trade. 

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Unveiling of the tapestry June 2023. Facebook.

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Abbot Hall is just across the park. It isn’t very welcoming from this side, somehow we go in via a side door and end up in the café from where complicated stairs lead us back to reception.  I have an Art Fund Pass which gives me free or reduced price to most galleries. My card shows an expiry date of May 2024, I suspect I have kept this one and thrown the new one away! I pay up the £12 fee which does at least give you access to Abbot Hall for a year. 

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The back side of Abbot Hall, or is it the front?

There are four themed exhibitions on display at present. Art Herbarium, Lakeland Art collection of Portraits, Claude Cahun prints and Gilbert Spencer. We just follow our noses around the charming intimate rooms. As a distraction there are are views of the grounds towards the river from the windows. P1060919

But first there is a room dedicated to The Great Picture which depicts family history of Lady Anne Clifford (1590-1676) and her fight for her rights.  Painted during the English Civil War by a Jan van Belcamp (1610-1653), a Dutch artist. “it is a rare celebration of the life of a woman from that period”.  Not easy to photograph.P1060917

Art Herbarium.

A selection from their collection focusing on nature. John Ruskin was represented as was an ‘unidentified Sea Captain’. Beautiful flower paintings by Winifred Nicholson and the even more exquisitely illuminated letters from the Cumbrian artist Percy Kelly. P1060920

Portrait Galleries

Contemporary artists, such as Kendal-based artist Lela Harris have been invited to exhibit alongside the Abbot Hall collection. Highlights from the collection include works by George Romney, Joan Eardley, Lucian Freud, Hilde Goldschmidt, Victor Pasmore, Celia Paul, Kurt Schwitters, Stanley Spencer and Charmaine Watkiss.  P1060921P1060923

Claude Cahun.

An exhibition of giclee prints blurring and distorting her age, identity, and gender. Born Lucy Schwob, she adopted the pseudonym Claude Cahun in 1917 to free herself from the narrow confines of gender. All a little unnerving to my delicate palate. P1060925P1060926

Gilbert Spencer.

 A selection of this English painter’s major works. “Painter, muralist, illustrator, teacher and writer, Spencer’s career spanned more than six decades. During his lifetime he was recognised as one of the leading artists of his generation and one of the most successful art professors; teaching at the Royal College of Art, Camberwell College and Glasgow School of Art”  His brother Stanley Spencer is possibly better known. Of particular interest here is the time the artist and his students were evacuated from London to Ambleside in the Second World War. There was a series of cartoon like sketches from his time in the home guard. P1060928P1060933Screenshot 2024-06-09 185440P1060930

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And one I particularly liked in memory of the ardent Wolves fan Dave. P1060932P1060931

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On the way out we spotted a statue in the church grounds. A quick park up revealed this to be a beautiful wooden carved piece by James Mitchell, unveiled only last week based on Speed’s map of Kendal we had been looking at in the church. The Kendal Parish Riverside Sculpture.  This was another commission by the Environment and Kendal Parish Church as part of the flood relief scheme. “It is made from an Oak tree that came down during storm Arwen which was kindly donated by Bill and Ali Lloyd and came from their farm in the Upper Kent Valley. This 170yr old tree was a vital part of the ecosystem and helped slow the flow and nourish our landscape. The map shows Kendal as it was then and is populated with parts of that history and wildlife. It shows the valley and is headed with the hills of the Kentmere horseshoe. The other side of the tree is an abstract form that represents the flow of the river, the contours and texture of the landscape and the stunning beauty of the wood itself.”

Why had neither of us taken a photo of the tapestry?

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James Mitchell carving. Facebook.

On the way home was an opportune time to call in on Sir Hugh for cha and chatter. 

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This afternoon whilst writing this post I can’t get a certain song out of my head  – Kendal  no, but it’s London Calling, a post punk hit from the 80’s. Joe Strummer at his pomp. Not to everyone’s taste but it will liven up a dull Sunday. 

REVISITING THE FOOTHILLS OF PENDLE.

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Another  leaflet from  Walks with Taste – Visit Ribble Valley, this time setting off from the Assheton Arms in Downham.  

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 “This adventurous three-hour hike explores the foothills of Pendle, offering extensive views of the Ribble Valley, before diving into the wooded valleys beneath its flanks”  

It promised to be a good one. In fact when I think back I did an almost identical walk in reverse a couple of years ago, but that was then.

I’m joined by JD today. I arrived at his house and then realised I hadn’t brought the said leaflet so a bit of backtracking before we get going. We are still parked up in Downham before 11am. Soon enough for a short 5 mile walk. P1060910

All of the tracks today seemed well used by ramblers with good signage in the main. A popular area, and deservedly so. The scenery is classic Ribble Valley farmland with the limestone bed rock giving excellent walking and varied flora, all under the gaze of Pendle Hill. 

The first part was gently uphill passing idyllic farms on the undulating northern flanks of Pendle. P1060850

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On our way down towards Twiston we stopped for a bite in a sheltered limestone quarry below Hill Foot. We had time to observe the unique flora in these limestone undisturbed meadows. Identification of the individual species was not all that easy.  P1060888

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 And we had time to take in the fine view of Pendle from our perch.  P1060886

Passing the silted up mill pond of Twiston and then the old mill itself. then alongside the beck to a footbridge and up to yet another farm, Springs. Here we met up with a sunken track over Wooly Hill, which I’d never visited. There is a Roman road marked on the map – were we on the course of it back to Downham. The OS are not always accurate with marking Roman Roads. 

Throughout the walk we experienced a variety of stiles in the stone walls, some now neglected and bypassed by the functional wooden gate. At least none of those newfangled metal gates have arrived yet. Have a read of what outdoor writer John Bainbridge has to say.

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This or that? 

I have just remembered somewhere on the way we rescued, with difficulty, a sheep who had its head stuck through a wire fence. No harm was done to her or the fence, but JD suffered knee bruising when the released sheep ran straight into him and I ended up with stinking trousers where I had been kneeling in her shit.

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The afternoon ended well with a pint of Bowland beer outside The Asheton Arms as befits this series of summer walks. This has been a quick visit to our route but one worth you trying someday.P1060911

Oh, and one more picture of Pendle from the porch of St. Margaret’s Church..P1060915

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CICERONE’S LANCASHIRE – GREAT HILL FROM ANGLESARKE.

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Walk number 30 from Mark Sutcliffe’s walking guide. 9 miles.

I’m sat in the shelter at the top of Great Hill having a lunch time snack. There is a cheeky cool wind from the north.  I’m chatting to a bloke who has come up from Rivington the opposite way round to me. My hard work is over and I’m confident about the next couple of miles on the flagged path across Redmond’s Edge which I walked a month ago. Once again there are no distant views, Longridge Fell can just about be made out in the distance, but no hope of photographing it.

The day started badly with half an hour looking for my camera back at base. It was hidden in a shopping bag in the car yesterday whilst I visited Sainsburys. I know I shouldn’t hide things these days as I never remember where. I end up like a demented squirrel searching for his nuts.

Calm restored and another coffee drunk before I venture out onto the motorways. I’m soon through Chorley, past The Black Horse, the Bay Horse and The Yew Tree. Funny how you remember an area, all pubs we used to drink in after climbing in Anglesarke Quarry.  I park on the road just above the quarry but there is no sign of anybody climbing there today. How the trees have grown and obscured the buttresses. P1060733

Dropping back down the road I take the obvious way alongside Anglesarke Reservoir and onto High Bullough Reservoir. I don’t seem to recognise the way at all despite countless traverses before. P1060735P1060738

A random photo appears at Bullough Reservoir with no explanation. Here is what I found later. “John Frederick La Trobe Bateman FRSE FRS MICE FRGS FGS FSA  (30 May 1810 – 10 June 1889) was an English civil engineer whose work formed the basis of the modern United Kingdom water supply industry. For more than 50 years from 1835 he designed and constructed reservoirs and waterworks.” There is a lot more about him on Wikipedia, he had an amazing career. P1060736

A chance encounter with a walker in a group, extolling the virtues of ‘Trekking Poles’. I concur with him, having used them for forty or more years, ignoring the comments back then – “where is the snow”. But this chap is serious, having attached heavy weights to his poles to give him a full body workout. I’d never heard of that before. Impressed or perplexed I continue with my feather light poles.

There are some lovely trees along this stretch, I like the way those three have gown as one – Entangled Life. P1060742P1060743P1060739

I recognise the road near Waterman’s Cottage nestled between the trees at the end of the reservoir.  I popped out here once to see Bradley Wiggins flying past on a training run, remember him?

I hesitate my way forwards, but a lady points me across fields in the right direction to White Coppice. We fall into step, she explains that she is six weeks after a new knee operation. You would hardly know as she keeps up a good pace whilst waiting for her husband, freshly retired, to catch up. I relate to her my friend Sir Hugh’s first knee operation and the thousands of miles he covered and even after his second new knee he was still averaging 10 miles a day. I hope I have given her encouragement to eventually go beyond what her specialist has mentioned. We part company at White Coppice as they head for lunch in Brinscall. I don’t get to take a photo of the iconic cricket pitch as I keep to the right hand fell side of the Goit.  P1060745

This is then the steep bit. Up from the sign, which at first looked like one of those erected by Peak and Northern Footpath Association, but no, this is a Ramblers copy. A surprising number of people are climbing up this way. Can you see the white Mormon tower in the top centre?P1060747P1060746P1060751

At the end of the steep bit are the scattered ruins of Coppice Farm with an excellent information board including a map of the abandoned farms to the north of Great Hill. Can you imagine farming only 5 acres up here? They presumably would have been largely self-sufficient with the occasional trip down to market to sell and to buy.

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Onwards. I’m envious of the runners who effortlessly pass me and disappear into the distance. Distant memories in deed for me.  

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At a cross roads of paths another Ramblers sign appears. What is the Thomas Lockerby Footpath Fund?  “It uses the income from the assets of the Fund to preserve, maintain or improve public footpaths and bridleways located not more than 50 miles from Manchester Town Hall.” Do we need this proliferation of signs on the already well used paths? Would the funds not be better spent on gaining more access to the countryside within 50 miles of Manchester?P1060766

Onwards I pass another abandoned farmstead, Drinkwaters. I should nave looked for their spring water supply.P1060771

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Onwards the summit comes into sight but it still feels a long way off. P1060786

I’m passed by a youth running bare chested with no spare clothing. He does however have his head phones on so has missed the sound of the wind and the skylarks. Of course he stops at the summit for a selfie and then disappears back down. Make of that what you want. Off road cyclists are looking more and more like trail motor cyclists, which is in fact what many of them realistically are. Old age grumpiness over. P1060793P1060794

The way across the ridge is indeed easy with all those flagstones. Everywhere around me is bleak moorland enriched in parts by the nodding white cotton grass. All I have to do is find the path going west downhill 300m before the Belmont Road. Did I pass it just then, I backtrack but am not convinced. I come back and there within 5m it is. Obvious. P1060802P1060803P1060804

Pleasantly downhill towards more abandoned farms, Higher and Lower Hempshaw’s. Not much left standing. P1060808P1060812P1060815

I cross a stream onto a track and then take the wrong “grassy track by a tumbledown wall” There are tumbledown walls everywhere. All is not lost as I do a longer loop on a land rover track above the Yarrow Valley. Another ruin is passed, Simms. The scenery is changing from the bleak uplands to green fields and wooded cloughs with Rivington reservoirs in the background. One forgets how close to Bolton and Manchester we are. P1060817P1060818

Not concentrating I miss a faint path going right into trees and find myself at junction of paths in Lead Mines Clough which I recognise. I need to be farther north so I head up the stepped track leading to the Wellington Bomber Memorial, remembering a 1943 aircraft crash nearby. For a detailed description and more information I recommend reading – Bomber Zulu – Anglezarke.net

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By now I’m well lost, there are paths everywhere and I end up getting my phone out to plot a way back Jepson’s Gate. A final stroll down the road and I’m back at the viewpoint carpark.  P1060729

Todays walk felt like stepping back in time with the ancient tracks, mine workings and abandoned farms.  I have a book which paints an intimate picture of those lives only a hundred years ago.  Lost Farms of Brinscall Moors – Carnegie Publishing  What will the scenery look like in another hundred years?

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A RAMBLE AROUND CLITHEROE.

P1060609Another from a leaflet in the series of Walks with Taste in Ribble Valley, this time setting off from the centre of Clitheroe. I’m becoming lazy with route planning and relying on someone else’s choice, Ribble Valley BC this time. It promised “starting from Holmes Mill, wandering through the grounds of Clitheroe’s Norman Castle to the River Ribble for an easy riverside ramble” P1060718

I park in a side street in Clitheroe near Holmes Mill which has its own small pay and display carpark. The place is just opening up and I will sample its delights later in the morning.

My first objective is Clitheroe Castle and I navigate a series of steep and sinuous paths to reach its ramparts. Arriving at a terrace  there is an ornate stone turret, strangely from the Houses of Parliament, presented to the borough by its MP (Sir William Brass) in 1937, in commemoration of the coronation of King George VI. Also known as the Pinnacle, it dates back to the mid-1800s when there was rebuilding work at the Palace of Westminster after a fire. P1060604P1060594P1060600

On the next tier is the oft photographed  war memorial, a sculpture of a soldier standing in a mourning pose with head bowed.  The main inscription reads “Erected by the inhabitants of Clitheroe in grateful remembrance of their fellow townsmen who gave their lives in defence of their king and country in the Great War 1914 – 1918”. The sculptor was Louis Frederick Roslyn,  (incidentally you will see the same figure at a memorial in Slaidburn) P1060608

On its rocky limestone outcrop the remains of the castle keep rise above me , up yet more steps. Built in 1186 by Robert de Lacy, the Norman keep, reputed to be the second smallest in England, was in an important strategic location. After the death of Henry de Lacy in 1311, the castle passed to the Earldom of Lancaster, and then became the property of the Duchy of Lancaster. The castle was used during the Wars of the Roses, but was soon in a state of disrepair and it  was damaged further by Parliamentary forces during the English Civil War. The castle was privately owned until 1920 when it was sold to the local council to establish a memorial to the First World War.

The medieval buildings associated with the castle have all disappeared. In the eighteenth-century Castle House in the castle grounds is a museum which of course is not open a this time of day. P1060605

I climb to the top for views over the Ribble Valley, into Yorkshire, the cement works and the nearby Pendle Hill. All a little hazy. I do spot the  white Waddow Hall, at the base of the Grindleton hills, I’ll soon be walking close by it. But first I have to find my way down. 

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Leaving the grounds I notice one of the Tercets installed at intervals on The Lancashire Witches Walk enjoyed with Sir Hugh back in 2016. P1060626

I made a special effort to come and see Dandy, the Black Dog last week and here I am again walking past him near Booths Supermarket.  The Platform Gallery at the railway station is open so I have a look around at the art and crafts on display resisting any attempt to purchase. P1060631P1060634P1060635P1060636

Time for some proper rambling. I make my way through familiar streets down to Brungerley Bridge and my reunion with the River Ribble for the third time in thee outings. A gentle stroll downstream and I see the imposing C17th Waddow Hall on the opposite bank. It has been used by girl  guides for decades but now the Association in their wisdom has decided to sell it. P1060644P1060650P1060655

The river has been placid until now where it flows over a weir and cataracts down the valley. This is where water would have been taken off into a leat for the mill downstream. Out of the woods and past all the horsey fields and tidy allotments. Down here was once a mill village, Lowmoor. In 1928 when the mill closed, there were 200 houses (many back to back), nine shops, a National school, church and two Methodist chapels. The mill was demolished but many of the houses remained now being swallowed up by a modern estate on the site of the mill. P1060657

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I pop out onto the road between the Swimming Pool and gym and head back to the river at Edisford Bridge. I walked this section less than a week ago. The riverbank being popular with young families. Still no Kingfisher.P1060667P1060668

 Across the road, the one leading to the tip, and at last onto new ground –  a field path alongside Pendleton Brook.  A hazy Pendle Hill in the background. New housing is spreading out here and soon after the railway bridge I’m hemmed in.P1060671P1060675

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Did an architect actually design this.

I recognise the buildings of Primrose Mill, an early cotton mill, which have been tastefully converted into office spaces. At Scott Bridge the culverted Mearley Brook heads through the complex before joining the for aforementioned Pendleton Brook. A fish ladder has been built along this stretch to give fish access to higher water beyond the dam of Primrose Lodge, Having spent thousands I wonder has anybody told the fish. P1060681P1060682

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Looking down onto the fish ladder.

 

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Fish ladder in construction.     ribbletrust.org.uk

Rather than walk along the road I take to the Primrose Nature Reserve which follows the valley of Mearley Brook beyond the lodge. At the end I escape up a cobbled street towards the church.P1060683P1060692P1060696

It’s noon when I find my way into the Holmes Mill complex. A former C19th Textile Mill, it was the last working cotton mill in Clitheroe, steam-driven until 1973.  Historic England  tells you all about it.  In the last ten years redevelopment has resulted in a cornucopia of beer, food, ice cream, cinema, bowling alley and hotel. I head for the Beer Hall, said to have the longest bar in England, and home to Bowland Brewery. I choose their new season pale ale – Happy Hedgehog and find a quiet corner to enjoy. There are more waiters than customers. As well as the Bowland Beers the bar holds at least 40 other drafts. Next door is the engine room with a steam engine in situ. The bistro and foodhall  are packed with customers. P1060698P1060712

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Four and a half miles and I was home for lunch. More of a verbal ramble than actual walking.

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