Category Archives: Art and architecture.

IRWELL VALLEY TRAIL. 1. WITH OR WITHOUT SCULPTURES.

Having been out on the bike for a few days I’ve come to realise that despite the good exercise nothing really happens. You don’t get to chat to many people and your way is fairly delineated, little variation in terrain apart from up and down and few decisions to make. Dare I say ‘mechanical’. To make cycling more interesting I think you have to throw in some exploratory options on a longer trip – maybe more of that later in the year.

So I found myself on a bus, on a train and in a taxi to get to the start of The Irwell Sculpture Trail above Bacup in the rather bleak Pennine Hills south of Burnley. Nothing to mark the start of the trail, you might have expected some waymarking or a sculpture. Anyhow the infant River Irwell appeared and was to be my companion for two days. Gritty moorland tracks took me down the valley with some careful and imaginative navigating. I passed one recognisable ‘sculpture’ – The Sentinel basically a glorified cairn but incorporating some excellent dry stone craft. Bacup was a disappointment. Lots of good back to back housing, a period decaying Bingo hall [probably an old cinema] and no cafe. Onwards on the wrong route over Huttock Top, some scruffy walking through back streets and parks at least by the Irwell, an old railway tunnel [illegal] …. …. brought me to Waterfoot. Lots of industrial heritage, not necessarily preserved, in evidence throughout the walk. The Duke of Buccleugh provided a sit down, a half pint of Moorhouse’s Pride of Pendle with an illicit sandwich. Located another old railway track, no help from any waymarking which took me past a strange cave like structure without realising it was Spaces 9.XXXV’94 – exploring the depths of the human-psyche and our relation to mystic natural forces’. Have I lost you there?

Coming back to the Irwell, now more of a river despite being hemmed in with urbanisation, a man was fishing for trout. A good sign that things have been cleaned up. More importantly there was a great little cafe tucked away in Lambert’s Mill, ‘cotton was king’ don’t forget in Lancashire. Have to give a shout for the very friendly Annie Peaches Tea Room! More old mills in Rawtenstall have been converted into flats and in one innovative case a Primary Care Medical facility. The  cricket team were losing to local rivals ‘Rammy’ in the competitive Lancashire League as I walked past. A bit of dalliance at the East Lancs Railway followed to view the LMS ‘Crab’ steam locomotive 13065,SAM_5316 but why oh why do they have to put a Thomas the Tank face on it ????? Once out of town there was some lovely countryside walking towards Ramsbottom. Passed a sculpture or two, the most impressive was In the picture framing the riverside fields. Through an industrial estate, they are never far away, and into ‘Rammy’ my attention was drawn to an apiarist calmly trying to get an unwanted swarm of bees from a fence into a box. By the Irwell bridge I was fascinated by the next sculpture called The River, an 88m stainless steel path meandering through a park with inspirational quotations inscribed into it. The next installation was the Vase directly in front of my lodgings for the evening. The pub bar was full of the local alcoholics when I arrived but I must say the room was perfectly comfortable and peaceful. Anybody who knows Ramsbottom will realise the extravaganza of eating establishments at your disposal. So I enjoyed a Thai meal at The Spice Garden.

In summary a good and enjoyable 13mile walk through varied scenery, poorly way marked [didn’t see an IST sign till the last couple of miles] and not really incorporating many of the sculptures in the valley.  Tomorrow’s second stage?

LONGRIDGE TOWN “PLANNING”

  • LONGRIDGE.    “8000 friendly people, wonderful countryside and a great social life!  What else do you need?” — a quote taken from their own website. That at present is quite true, but there is trouble afoot. Due to a lack of forward local planning, developers are highlighting areas of land around our villages to appease the Government’s hypothetical and unrealistic targets for housing needs in the next decade. The map above shows the problem with up to 2500 houses projected [in red]. Roads, Schools, Doctors, Sewers — where are those plans? There is a genuine feeling of anger in the village over the proposals, but the councils seem unable to call a halt to these Developers’ speculative plans.     

To celebrate the millennium, Ribble Valley produced leaflets and waymarked six excellent walks in and around Longridge exploring the diverse landscape and heritage. [Available from our thriving local library] One of these is a 6-mile circular tramp around the village making use of tracks through the surrounding green spaces, these are the very same spaces that are now highlighted in red in the above plan. So today I thought it was an opportunity to repeat and enjoy this walk before all the changes. Bowland Homes have already filled in one corner of the Eastern rural approach to Longridge. Across the road from there are lovely fields earmarked by Taylor Wimpey so destroying this atmospheric entrance into the village. I followed the green lane up the side of this area into the quarried part of Longridge, with views over several reservoirs. Across the road into fields and one has the most wonderful views over Chipping Vale with the Bowland Fells behind. Surely this must be saved for our dependents.  The next area under attack, from Barretts, is all the fields around the cricket pitch on the road in from Chipping. This again will totally change a rural entrance into the village. The old neglected  ‘Gypsy Lane’ goes through fields onto Inglewhite Road and a field path leads to Halfpenny Lane. Here Gladmans have been given permission to develop the green fields across to the village. No buffer zone in the form of farming land any more. What is nature losing?  A few hundred yards around the corner and  Urbanregen  [how ugly a word is that?] have already started to prepare the destruction of Green Nook Lane! Further on the walk, in Pinfold Lane, United Utilities have decommissioned a reservoir to produce a wetlands environmental area with public hides for observing the wildlife. Highly commendable, but at the same time they are hoping to develop a housing estate on the north side of the site. Double standards or am I being cynical?  One has to be where land, development, planners, government and money are all involved. So my pleasant rural circuit around Longridge is complete — but for how long will you be able to experience these few countryside hours in the proximity of the village?  There are too many question marks in this post and I’m too afraid of the answers.

As one ages, it is said you don’t easily adapt to changes — count me in on that.

.

111111

OUT ON THE LOOSE AGAIN. Clougha Pike and Grit Fell.

Clougha Pike.

Following on from my post of a few weeks ago  we had unfinished business in the West Bowland hills.

A sunny Bank Holiday Monday found the four recycled teenagers [old gits] in the Rigg Lane car park above Quernmore. A quern is a grinding stone which, along with Grit Fell, gives a clue to the bedrock in these parts and there appeared to be lots of rocks visible on the hillsides above. As we followed the path up alongside Rowton Brook several old mills were passed, all now restored and converted into desirable rural residences. The brook was followed onto the open moor.

Soon we were sitting in one of the stone summit shelters on Clougha Pike 413m enjoying the extensive views over Morecambe Bay, ranging from Wales to the Lakes.

Onwards now towards the rather featureless Grit Fell on a boggy path, passing above some prominent boulders.

On the way I noticed some prominent stone structures to the North and recalled reading of Andy Goldsworthy installations for the Duke of Westminster’s Abbeystead estate. So a diversion over rough ground (hence the blip on the map) brought us to the three pillars set in an abandoned stone quarry.

Several photos later, we retraced our steps to eventually reach stone cairn on the rounded Grit Fell 467m. From here we looked over the heart of Bowland and Wards Stone where we capitulated last time, what a desolate yet strangely alluring area.

Turning North the path took us past many shooting butts, who would want to be a grouse up here, to a well-constructed estate road. Range Rover access for the rich assassins is obviously essential, but the road certainly disfigured the moors. We’ve had this argument before.

More uplifting were the stately outlines of Ingleborough and it’s neighbours, dominating the skyline to the NE.

 The ‘road’ winds its way back towards the coast past many small stone quarries where the rocks were split to produce slabs and shingles. As navigator, I was relying on a 20yrOld OS version which had little detail of these new tracks and I failed to spot our path heading northwards Littledale. At one point we came within 100m of the Goldsworthy statues we had made an arduous detour earlier! Three tall stone cairns, more crudely built, dominated the skyline as we approached the sea.

Committed to, but becoming bored with, the hard surface, we followed it down to the edge of some woods. Rather than taking the easy option of a direct return to the car park, I tried a footpath eastwards into the valley of Littledale.

This indeed gave us some variety, only to become lost climbing walls, barbed wire and dilapidated bridges on non-existent paths through Cragg Woods. This was a lost world and clearly private. We staggered on passing what looked like illegal, short noose rabbit snares to emerge onto the road, at least there had been no man traps.

Again my map was wanting and concessionary paths through the woods back to the car park were ignored for a long tramp along the road.

I didn’t get many marks for navigation today. I made up for it though, the motorway was packed, so I took us through Preston to have a great curry at Bangla Spice just off the motorway near Leyland.

Off to buy a new map of the area tomorrow.

*****

BEACON FELL BIVI.


BEACON FELL WITH THE BOWLAND HILLS BEHIND.

After my last post about rain the summer-like weather has been around for a few days and I was tempted out bouldering one afternoon which left me with an extremely sore left big toe. So back on my cycle for a few short rides but I felt the need to get into the hills. Was tied up most of Saturday until tea time, but then a quickly packed sac with basic bivi equipment saw me strolling out of Longridge at 6pm.

I planned to follow the first stage of my Longridge Skyline Walk  and spend the night somewhere on Beacon Fell. What a beautiful, warm evening as I walked through fields with lapwings tumbling overhead. The May blossom in the hedgerow was at its best, can’t you just smell it?

Cattle were out enjoying the rich grass and were being a general inquisitive nuisance, charging about, one just has to be aware of any possible danger. The sheep and playful lambs were easier to share a field with.

Onwards through Goosnargh Golf Club, with the fairways in prime condition.

Further on the building work on the old Cross Keys Inn seems to have come to  a standstill. inside is a surreal builders’ dining table. Made me think ‘Hotel California’ somehow!

More troublesome cattle accompanied me up the fields into the woods of Beacon Fell. A few families were about in the car park, however the café was closed. I had planned to arrive at the summit for sunset, but cloud spoiled the scene.

A new owl sculpture has been installed in place of the ‘hanging bat’ and I stumbled upon  a wooden carving of a crocodile to complete my collection of Beacon Fell sculptures to date.

As dusk fell, I found myself a comfy bivi spot with views of the Bowland Fells.

Roe deer were wandering about and barked noisily for a while, obviously I was on their territory. Sitting there, I was treated to a spectacular low flight of a Barn Owl looking for prey — spellbinding. And then the bats started their rapid flypast.    Sweet dreams.  I awoke at 5am as the sun came up but managed to doze off till 6.30, so I was away to a leisurely start by 7am.

My plan was to walk down the valley of the River Brock for a few miles. Bluebells and wild garlic abounded  in the shade.

I was impressed by the depth that the small river has carved for itself over the centuries. This is Dipper and Wagtail territory. The path was in a poor state, boggy and eroded, so progress was slow. Nothing much else stirred until I came across the tents of D of E teenagers near Waddecar Scout Camp, they were just stirring!

Soon I was at Brock Bottoms where a few early dog walkers were out. This area has been tarted up with gravelled paths etc. I just remember days with my kids hopping down the river and exploring the ruins of one of the many water mills. Now the ruins seem smaller with no sign of the wheel or any millstones.

Once out of the valley at Walmsley Bridge I followed field paths to emerge at the delightful thatched, old farmhouse of Scotch Green, I do wonder about the derivation of these names, but there was nobody about to ask.

A rest stop at the village cross of Inglewhite was prolonged by a chance meeting of an old friend out walking her dog.

The  pub was closed for restoration, hopefully it will still have a bar for the locals who would keep it alive. The local chapel seemed to have a sizable congregation. On a wall was one of the old AA information plates — remember these.

Onwards down an old bridleway and ford, now bridged for safety reasons, into Goosnargh and back home for lunch! 

That’s how I recharge my batteries and connect with the land in this beautiful area.

PRESTON GUILD WHEEL – A CYCLE CIRCUIT.

Preston Guild Week takes place every 20 years – I’ve witnessed three. It is an ancient tradition celebrating the Merchants Guilds who traded in the town, now city.

     In 1179, King Henry II granted Preston the right to have a Guild Merchant and awarded the town its first royal charter. The Guild was an organisation of traders, craftsmen and merchants, who had a monopoly of trade in the town.  Gatherings for renewing membership were infrequent, from 1542 Preston Guild took place every 20 years. In 1790 there was freedom of trade in the town, which abolished the need for a Guild.  But people continued to celebrate the Guild, as its festivities had developed into prestigious social occasions, which continues to this day.

The Guild Wheel has been created as a lasting legacy of  the 2012 Preston Guild. The 21 mile route makes the most of the different landscapes that surround the city, creating a rich and varied environment for people to enjoy on foot and cycle.                                                                      For more information and downloadable maps visit https://www.lancashire.gov.uk/leisure-and-culture/cycling/guild-wheel/

GUILD WHEEL IN RED.

This was therefore an obvious challenge for my new-found cycling enthusiasm.  Cometh the moment, cometh the man. Unfortunately the man made two predictable mistakes .

   1   I didn’t have a map, expecting my local knowledge and the way marking to be ample.   

   2   I strangely decided, despite being out testing my road bike for a week, to use my    ‘Mountain  Bike’ which had not been out of the garage for years.

Anyhow, parked up and ready to go on a blustery, cool day. The route has a start outside the Pavilion Cafe in Avenham Park, which today, a Saturday, was quite busy. The route is punctuated with mileposts giving the distance in either direction.

Start and Finish.

I opted for a clockwise circuit. I set off confidently, whizzing along the riverside track and soon arrived at the old bridge in Lower Penwortham.

The wrong way!

I was distracted by all the cyclists coming over this cobbled way and intuitively went the same way and on to a good cycle track. Only after some distance, as I headed up into Penwortham, did I realise this wasn’t the ‘Wheel’. My pride was too much just to turn around and go back, so totally disorientated I did an irrational loop into housing estates, cul de sacs and parks before having to ask a group of teenagers the way back to the river.   Great start!   By now I had also noticed my second mistake — my ageing cable to the rear derailleur had snapped, so I had to cycle the rest of the route in one gear!!!

Safely back over the bridge I was able to follow the correct way along the north side of the Ribble past the docks’ railway, no steam today, but I will return to check out their locomotives. Passed one in need of care and restoration.

Onwards through the docks’ area [one of the largest in Europe in the 19th century] another café at the Marina, and onto the seaward section of the Ribble, complete with seagulls and cormorants. Next there was a stiff incline [in the one gear] heading west into the wind alongside Riversway until a bridge took me over the busy road and back along a canal — The Ribble Link. This is the only canal constructed in the last century, connecting the Lancaster canal with the rest of the system via the Leeds Liverpool.  This looks miniscule, and I wonder how many canal boats make the passage.

Onwards on surprisingly rural cycleways in Cottam and through the UCLAN sports fields, all areas I had no knowledge of. Still lots of cyclists coming both ways and with all being   communicative it felt a very social day out. Somehow bypassed Eastway, past the ‘Hoppers sports ground over the M55 and ended up alongside the A6 in Broughton.

Quietness returned to Durton Lane with its speed bumps. Next I was going along the long neglected Longslands Lane and coming across the Asda superstore. Some steep inclines brought me onto the M6 motorway access at Bluebell Way [well, not quite] and Roman Way.

I was soon cycling  through the grounds of Preston Crematorium, certainly plenty of variety!

A lovely section through Bluebell Woods, too early for the eponymous flowers, and steeply down the escarpment…

… to enter the Brockholes Nature Reserve with lots of earnest bird watchers’ binoculars trained on the lakes. Another location to revisit.

Good flat cycling alongside the River Ribble all the way back into Preston and Avenham Pavilion Café.

What a great trip out, though still stiff from the effort, and congratulations to Preston for making it all possible. Far too much interesting stuff for one post!

I’ll be back with a reliable bike, more fitness and a Map!

Next time I wonder about making a day of it and stopping at every single café en route – that would be quite an endurance trip.

T Dagnall’s’ Broody Duck’.

10 ‘TOP’ THINGS I SAW IN ISRAEL.

 

Jerusalem Skyline.

I had not really intended to travel to Israel but some friends had booked a tour of The Holy Land and I jumped on the bandwagon. I will not dwell on the conflicting politics of the Middle East. I can appreciate the Jews’  Zionist desire for their own historic land and culture but I found it hard to come to terms with their expansionist tendencies putting them in conflict with their Palestinian neighbours. What now of a two state solution?

In brief and In no particular order…………….

1.  MEET THE LOCALS.

A mixed bunch of Jews, Christians and Arabs. English is widely spoken. From the start, on the Easy-jet flight out, one realised the culture shock with 90% of the passengers being Orthodox Jews with their traditional dress and hairstyles. The overhead lockers were full of large black hats. Can be a bit prickly — the Jews — not the hats. Beware, guns are everywhere!

2. SEA OF GALILEE/BIBLE LANDS.

Mount of the Beatitudes.

Much religious tat around here but the scenery is magnificent and brings the Bible to life. Highlights are the villages Jesus was ‘said’ to frequent and where he performed his miracles — think feeding the five thousand, walking on water and changing water to wine etc. A special hilltop was The Mount of Beatitudes, a very spiritual place. Close to the Golan Heights are acres of minefields overlooking the UN buffer zone to war torn Syria. The Jordan River baptisms are an American theme park, but there are lots of fervent takers. I spotted a long hiking route through the area which would make an interesting trip.

Nazareth pilgrims.

3. ROMAN CITIES.

Caesarea aqueduct.

Caeserea and Beit She’an are wonderful evocative Roman cities excavated to reveal everyday Roman life.

4. MASADA.

Talking of Romans this spectacular hill top fort has become the symbol of Israeli resistance in a three year siege [70AD] culminating in mass suicide. Hence, the presence at the attraction of lots of School parties and Army fledglings learning their history.

5. THE DEAD SEA.

Dead Sea Scroll Cave?

Not necessarily the scrolls but the wonderful touristy floating on the water. At 425m below sea level the lowest place on earth!

6. JERUSALEM OLD CITY.

Dome of the Rock.

A hotchpotch  of society, races and architecture. Spend as many days as possible wandering the alleys here. Soak up the unique culture and activities. Highlights are the Wailing Wall, The Temple Mount, Islamic sites with the Dome of the Rock, the Jewish quarter and synagogues, the Arab markets and Mamluk architecture, Garden of Gethsemane and Mount of Olives, the Via Dolorosa  and the Christian churches culminating at queues in the Holy Sepulchre.  ? The crucifixion site — but also visit the wonderful Garden Tomb, in a bus station!,  for an alternative evocative historical view.

The Wailing Wall

7. YAD VASHEM HOLOCAUST  MUSEUM.

Architect Moshe Safdie’s austere memorial to the 6 million Jews killed at the hands of the Nazis. I found this a humbling and emotional [if not harrowing] experience. Despite it’s sombre dimensions the museum highlights  wonderful snapshots of personal experiences through pictures and diaries. Needed more time to take it all in.

8 BETHLEHEM.

Separated lives.

A must visit but rather a let down. Interesting for a close up view of the Israeli partition fence/wall and in our case the tourist bus being stoned by local Palestinian kids. Fair dos as some had been shot the week before by Israeli soldiers. The famous Christmas tree was in the square being decorated by a firm from Liverpool!! The Church of Nativity has a star marking the supposed site of Christ’s birth. This is all in the Palestinian Controlled Sector.

It all started here.

9. TEL AVIV MUSEUM OF ART.

A modern exciting gallery, by architect Preston Scott Cohen, houses a large collection of Impressionist and post-impressionists. Also highlighted are 20th century avant-garde pieces and lots of contemporary exhibitions. I was lucky to catch a roomful of Andy Warhol creations. You name it, they’ve got it here, mainly funded by worldwide rich Jewish corporations and families. One area of beautifully lit, geometric floor levels has a stunning 27m hanging installation, Lusitana, by Joana Vasconcelos. A colourful textile and artefact giant organic piece  interweaving onto all floors. Brilliant.

Lusitana.

10. TEL AVIV BEACHES.

Over a kilometer stretch of golden sands, protected by breakwaters giving clean safe bathing. Extremely popular with locals and tourists. The sea was warm enough in December with air temperatures in the high 20s. Beach volley ball and racquet games are added entertainment. Book a hotel on the beachfront to enjoy the atmosphere and then watch the beautiful sunsets from your favourite terrace bar.

OK then  — No 11. THE FOOD.

Couldn’t miss the food out!

Falafel, Hummus, and Salad — food heaven.

Israelis seem to eat and drink coffee all day. The ubiquitous Falafels and Hummus on the street and in the cafes are tasty and wholesome. The salads are to die for. Freshly pressed Pomegranate juice revives the weary tourist. Search out some good fish restaurants.

Wouldn’t you just love to own a café you could name The Last Supper?

Breakfasts are a banquet in their own right. I was there during Hanukkah, Festival of Lights, and every evening there was a surfeit of delicious traditional doughnuts, sugar heaven.

Ah well, back to the New Year’s Diet.

It takes me some time to digest [no pun intended] and interpret all the nuances of this amazing country. Lots of conflicts and questions. But what is the solution?

The New ‘Fence’

A BUSY WEEKEND. A long post of short walks, art and restaurants.

  A mad dash down to Preston station on Thursday to rendezvous with Mel, my old walking pal from way back. His wife had sent him up north for the weekend. Our usual first visit is to a local Indian takeaway  for a quick lunch of Samosas.   http://www.rksweets.com

Tempting delicacies.

The afternoon was showery with dry sunny intervals, we took the opportunity of one of these intervals for a quick walk, to blow the cobwebs away, around the forest tracks on Longridge Fell.

Pendle from Longridge Fell

Just made it before the next downpour.

The local curry house, http://hamadanrestaurantlongridge.co.uk/,    

had a half price meal deal, so no debate about where we should eat.  

 Liverpool was our destination for the next day. Down to the docks and first The Tate Gallery and some interesting linked art exhibitions showing the influence of the masters on the their successors.  In no particular order…

Girl in a Chemise. Picasso.

Jackson Pollock.

Simon Starling Five-Man Pedersen (Prototype No.1)

Haven’t been down here for a few years and the place is busy, some new statues including one of the iconic Billy Fury.

Billy Fury.

Liverpool 1 seems to have taken over in this end of town. Managed to find a Chinese buffet for lunch – cheep and cheerful! http://www.maysumrestaurant.co.uk/

Next on our whistle stop tour was the Walker Art Gallery with some early David Hockney paintings.

Early Hockney.

Watch this video for more interpretation. —

http://homotopiafestival.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/david-hockney-early-reflections.html

I will return to the Walker soon to look at their other exhibits. But now we were down to the Liverpool Library. Wow what a place!

The writer Frank Cottrell Boyce has said that the new library had been completely overhauled to an unrecognisable degree.He said: ‘It’s like going to meet your gran and finding out that she’s turned into Beyonce,’       Just stunning.

Celestial!

Go up onto the roof for wonderful views of the city and North Wales.

 

View from the roof.

Time to go home and reflect on the days experiences. They were getting ready to switch on the Christmas lights and delightful stilted fairies were wandering about.

Christmas fairies.

Getting out of some of these gated and ticketed car parks is never straight forward. Have a dread of getting to the barrier, nothing working and a great line of cars behind me!

Saturday was for relaxing, a short afternoon walk in the local countryside…

….and a meal with the family at night.

We had arranged to meet up with more friends on the Sunday for a walk based on the Witton Weavers Way near Blackburn. Lucky to have a bright, clear day so that Mel doesn’t think it always rains up here.

The Three Stooges.

The Leeds – Liverpool Canal tow path was busy with dog walkers, runners and cyclists.

Soon we were in the Hoghton Gorge with the river running high.

Above is Hoghton Towers the home of the de Hoghtons since the 12 C. It was claimed James 1st visited in 1617 and ‘knighted’ a loin of beef, this is most likely a false etymology for sirloin. We reminisced of adventurous climbing escapades in the nearby quarry.

Below Hoghton quarry.

But thoughts of food drove us on to the hamlet of Pleasington and the pleasant surprise of the Butlers arms pub. hhtp://www.thebutlersarms.co.uk

Despite our muddy boots and disheveled appearance we were made welcome and enjoyed a good pint and food. Highly recommended. The walk back through Witton Playing fields was enlivened by realistic model airplanes strafing us from 50ft.

The evening was spent with more friends at a favourite Indian restaurant in Leyland run by  the lovely Jamal.  Bangla Spice.

Monday morning was spent up in the village and a coffee stop at the best cafe [there are so many now] in Longridge – the converted station which has the added benefit of a heritage centre with old pictures of the railway and associated mills and quarries.   http://cafe.longridgestation.co.uk/   We discussed the route of our next, annual, spring walk  – maybe St. Cuthberts Way or the Icknield way.

By coincidence it was the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month so we attended the service at the memorial next to the cafe.

In the afternoon I did a guided walk of the interesting historic sights of our village and will post this separately sometime. But more to the point of this post we were thwarted in the evening by the local Thai restaurant being closed. So off to Preston and the revamped Ming Dynasty. A new crew here served up a wonderful freshly cooked banquet of Chinese food. Highlights included salt and pepper fried Tofu,Dim Sums and fabulous prawns in garlic and ginger. Thanks.  [Update = now closed!]

The next morning Mel was on his way back to London realising that we have some good eating places up north. I hope his wife doesn’t notice the weight he’s put on!!

So we walked maybe 25miles, stimulated our minds, ate x thousand calories and enjoyed the company of many friends and family.

Phew!

Can’t wait to do it again.

GR7 VALENCIA. El Rebollar – Valencia and home.

Take me to the station and put me on a  train, I have no expectations to pass this way again…

*****

We knew there was a station halt just up the road but enquiries at the  hotel for the timetable to Valencia produced the usual Spanish shrug  –  No lo sé.   Even the local Police having their morning drink in the café had no idea. There was some suggestion that there may be a train at 9.30. So we rushed our coffee and walked up the road to the station/halt. The train arrived at 10.30! Thank god it stopped.

Within an hour we were climbing out into the beautiful city of Valencia. This is one of my favourite places in Spain. All the interesting areas in the old city are within easy walking distance making it a great place to get lost and explore.

                                                

Station and bullring.

Everywhere you look there are outstanding buildings.

We dumped our sacks at Pension Paris  http://www.pensionparis.com in the centre of the city. Lunch was a great squid bocadillo. Went exploring, climbed El Miguelete Tower in the Cathedral for fantastic 360 degrees views of the city and beyond. Wandered into the Barrio Carmen, the historic centre of the city, but now a Bohemian experience. Sat at a café, amidst the perfume of marijuana, enjoying a good coffee and the ambiance.  Back at the hostale for a rest before dinner. There is only one place to dine in central Valencia – La Utielana. You will have to find it yourself in the backstreets. Home cooking from a wonderful family. Fish specials every night. The pieman was impressed.

In the morning I wanted to find a bank that houses temporary art exhibitions. Couldn’t remember where it was from the last time but the helpful man at the pension suggested the Bancaja nearby.  Would you believe it there was a Picasso exhibition on. Faun, Centaur and Minotaur. Sketches from the1930’s exploring mythology and man’s relationship with animals.  At the centre of the exhibit was a running video of a Ballet choreographed by  Nijinsky with Nureyev performing – L’apres midi d’un Faune.  Fantastic interpretation of Picasso’s images.

Watch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qjvGIMeIhU   Must see.

 In some nearby plazas were magnificent large trees, Ficus Macrophylla, over 180 years old with their sculptured barks and roots.

 Into the city we were ready for a sit down and found the celebrated Santa Catalina horchateria in the backstreets.

Horchata is a drink made from Tiger nuts and used as a refreshing pick-me-up. You dip fartons into it!

We made our way to the market, a fantastic mixture of colours and odours, with the locals buying their suppers of meat, vegetables and fish. We stocked up with dried fruit and nuts for presents at home.

Made the effort to cross town to the beautiful stylish old market which is being reinvented as a shopping /café mall.


Time for lunch at an outside café near the station – paella of course. 10 euros for three courses and drinks.

Sadly back to the elegant station for the train to Alicante and the flight home.

 

                                          Good Journey!

BEACON FELL – Views and Sculptures

Following days of heavy rain, and serious floods in other parts of the country, today was forecast to be sunny, cold and dry. This proved this to be correct.  After a mornings work I was keen to make the best of the afternoon. A quick trip up to ‘Craig Y Longridge’ showed me there was still too much seepage for bouldering so I decided on a short walk on and around Beacon Fell. The tracks up there would at least be better than the sodden fields elsewhere. I can see Beacon Fell from the back of my house and subconsciously check it out for clear weather most days.

Beacon Fell

Today was perfect. In the summer months I have often used a circular walk through fields from home up to Beacon Fell and back. These tracks are a small part of my Longridge Skyline Walk which takes in Beacon Fell, Parlick, Fairsnape-Totridge, Kitcham Hill, Waddington Fell and Longridge Fell, a round of over 60k. More of that another time.

Beacon Fell has been a Country Park since 1970. The good visibility of the fell made it a good location for warning beacons. These have been recorded for nearly a thousand years. Until the beginning of the last century it was rough farmland and then was acquired in 1909 by Fulwood Council as a water supply. Water was collected in Barnsfold Reservoir and from there piped to Fulwood via Horns Dam and Haighton. Conifers were planted to help drainage. After 1959, no longer required for water, it was left unattended until acquired by Lancs County Council and opened as an early Country Park. It seems to have gained in popularity ever since.

At 266 metres (873 ft) above sea level, small compared with the neighbouring fells, its position offers commanding views over the flat plain of The Fylde and  Morecambe Bay to the west, the Bowland Hills to the North as well as the Pendle, Longridge Fell and the Ribble valley to the south-east. On  clear days, as today, the Welsh hills, the Lakeland Fells and the Isle Of Man are visible.

Bowland Visitor Centre

The park is well served with a welcoming visitor centre and cafe, open all year. From these car parks  tracks wander all over the fell and forest. Pick up a leaflet if you are unfamiliar with the area. Today I was keen to climb to the top for the views but decided to seek out along the way a series of sculptures by local artist Thompson Dagnall. The first is just above the centre, Orme Sight, a grotesque face with a drill hole sighting through his eye onto the N. Wales coast.

Orme Sight

As you walk up through the trees you come across the Walking Snake, a remarkable 50ft long, winding, wooden snake which kids love to balance along until they come eye to eye with head!

Walking Snake

Close by is an unusual use of trees uprooted and ‘replanted’ upside down to create the Spruced up Heron. I think this has changed from its original and now gives the impression of the bird part buried in an inverted position. Needs a new name.

Spruced up Heron

Unfortunately the Hanging Bat in trees near the top of the fell has been dismantled because of rotting timbers and won’t reappear. Further  down the fell you may find the scary Black Tiger and Kissing Seat.

Black Tiger Kissing Seat

Anyhow, to get back to the top of the fell and the trig point there were a gaggle of people staring out at the very clear views to the west.

Where is it?

As it says ‘on the tin’ there were commanding views in all directions — I don’t think I’ve seen them so clear!  Snow on the Lakeland tops, lots more wind turbines in the Irish Sea, Isle Of Man looking very close and some heights to its left in the distance — must have been Northern Ireland. Unable with my camera to capture this scene, but no problem with the closer and impressive Bowland Fells of Fairsnape and Parlick, Waddington Fell, Pendle and Longridge Fell.

Pendle and Longridge Fell

I continued my walk around the northern slopes of the fell, on past the pond with lots of ducks and through avenues of spruce back to the Visitor Centre. Interesting displays about Bowland and surroundings took my attention. In particular photos of lime kilns in the Chipping area, the volunteers manning the display were knowledgeable and interesting to talk to. By the time I emerged the sun was going down low over the Welsh hills, giving a fittingly beautiful view to end the day. Looking just like a watercolour wash.

The Clwyd Hills.

So a wonderful afternoon, some of the clearest views I’ve seen from here, a sculpture trail and added interest from the Bowland Visitor Centre.     Did I mention you could see Blackpool Tower?

Looks good for tomorrow too ……..

PPS Have a look at my May 2014  post    http://bowlandclimber.com/2014/05/20/beacon-bivi/  for more sculptures on Beacon Fell.