Category Archives: Climbing

Climbin’ on fossils – Walkin’ on snow white – Trowbarrow.

Walked into Trowbarrow just as Matus was topping out on Jean Jeanie [from Jean Genie and Jean Genet – look it up]. I happily tied in and pulled onto the steep wall knowing there would be little respite in the next 100ft. I haven’t climbed here for 15 years, on that occasion I led this route for Dor who desperately wanted to do it as possibly her last climb. I didn’t mention the polish or loose holds. She climbed it without a rest, was knackered at the top but still able to celebrate in the beer garden of The New Inn.

Then that was a hot summer’s afternoon, now today was cooler with a strong wind threatening to blow you off the wall. Bowie was “walkin’ on snow white” [a different chalk!] but for today we are climbing on fossils. The whole face is a bed of limestone encrusted with worm-like fossils which has been tilted 90 degrees to the vertical. You have to trust your feet on the protruding fossils to make good progress.

Climber midway on Jean Jeanie.

Nearing the top.

Jean Jeanie – classic track – classic route.

Despite Alan and I wanting a quick snack Matus was ready for another route, Harijan. Farther right on this main wall is another crack system, but this time its base is barred by an overhung blocky niche. [Any further right and you are under the most unstable looking roofs – climb at your peril. See photos, though nothing much has fallen down recently.] Awkward climbing leads up to the roof from where a shuffle left takes you out onto the front face and up into the crack where easier progress is made to the top, again making good use of fossils for your feet.

Some little gems on the quarry floor………

SOMEWHERE NEW.

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There is always somewhere new to go. I don’t often say that about climbing in the Lake District after years of exploring. There are places you don’t go to because of their poor reputation or difficulty, but others just escape your radar. Today we visited Bramcrag Quarry for the first time. Tucked away in St. John’s Vale it has been climbed on for some years but has suddenly had a revival of interest from the local lads. Many new lines have been cleaned and because of the lack of natural protection possibilities bolts have been placed and good lower-offs added. The rock looks like slate but apparently is fine grained granite.

A new selective Lakes guidebook has just been published and gives plenty of space to this venue. So we found ourselves parked up in the valley but there was no view of the crag, a winding track however led up to the quarry rim. First impressions were not good, almost an industrial atmosphere with a timber merchant in one half and rubbish in the other. The rock itself looked sombre in the shadows, tip – the sun comes onto the face about lunchtime. We crossed to the Center Parc sector as it promised a good selection of low grade slab routes. Without the help of the guide’s photo-diagram we would have struggled to identify anything.

Dave set off up the slab in front of us and was soon slowed down by the holdless compact rock which was difficult to read, the spaced bolts didn’t help. I was just happy to follow. It would take us a route or to to get used to this place. But the sun came out and we enjoyed some better lines. By now a trickle of climbers had arrived, all Lakes lads of a certain age including Colin Downer who had done most of the recent bolting and was busy prospecting a new area. One can imagine Bramgrag Quarry becoming more widely known and popular with the new guide out. A pleasant warm afternoon drifted on. There were inspiring views from our terrace across to Skiddaw and Blencathra, below in the Vale farmers were using the dry weather for grass cutting. We noted climbs for next time and returned to the car quite satisfied with our ‘somewhere new’.

For the record –

The Comfort Zone 5 The Rookie 5 Whicker’s World 5 Blencathra Badger 5+ Goodbye Mr. Major 6a

Climber at the top of Whicker’s World.

Finishing the fine arete on Goodbye Mr. Major.

Highlight of The Rookie.

Distant Skidaw and Blencathra.

I have to climb a steep hill!

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The balding Kemple End of Longridge Fell.

An early morning phone call – “I have to climb a steep hill!“, not exactly an emergency but it needed a response. My friend Mark seems to be having problems with his back and hips [aren’t we all] and was under the orders of his physio.

“OK, see you soon” was my response trying to think of a suitable steep hill. If you have ever cycled up Kemple End you will agree it is steep, and gets steeper. As a coincidence today is the start of the Tour de France and there seemed to be loads of cyclists on the roads. In a hour or so we are parked near Higher Hodder Bridge at the bottom of the said hill. Mark was pleased with his progress up the incline. Near the top we left the road on a public footpath into the fields to visit an ancient cross and recover our breath. A quick look into Kemple End where we have climbed together in the past and then we threaded our way down fields to reach the River Ribble. I am reminded of my Longridge Skyline Walk which comes up this way towards it’s end after 40 hard miles. Also every time I cross this creaky footbridge I think of my, sadly departed, climbing friend Pete, the bridge engineer extraordinary. A short walk by the river brought us back to Higher Hodder bridge.

We talked of mice and men and arranged to meet up soon for a climb providing his physio agrees.

As I post this the sun is breaking through the mist on Longridge Fell promising a lovely morning up at Kemple.

Bouldering and diversions in Croasdale.

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I can’t believe that the last time I was up here was Nov 2012, where does time go? Of course I did little last year.

Heart of Bowland – Croasdale. Bullstones bouldering.

What a contrast in weather conditions, today was hot and sunny. Had intended climbing in The Lakes but my partner phoned in sick. Quick change of plan – a small sack with rock shoes and chalk, sandwiches were already made. I always enjoy the Roman road over to Slaidburn particularly the stretch over Marl Hill where Ingleborough and Penyghent come into view. I notice the road surfaces have deteriorated significantly over the last two winters.

Parked up at my usual little spot , sun screen applied and off up the old lane [still the same Roman one]. Almost immediately I came across a new memorial stone relating to plane crashes on these hills in the war and the airmen who lost their lives. Set me wondering whether there are any pieces of wreckage still about and are they documented. Somewhere I have a book – quick trip to the bookshelf unearths – High Ground Wrecks 2 A survey of historical aircraft remains on the hills of the British Isles. David J Smith. My copy was bought in 1979 but has no publishing details, there is a more modern edition. True enough all the local crashes are listed with grid references, expeditions for another day. The RAF Mountain Rescue Service of course originates from those times.

Round the corner another new installation appeared, a white obelisk with witch references. Witch 400 turns out to be an exploration of the heritage of the Lancashire Witches, the 400th anniversary of their trial and execution [1612], and the enduring issue of persecution today. A walk has been established from the Pendle area to Lancaster Castle which coincides with my route today. Another expedition for another day, the list grows. The statues are inscribed with extracts of a poem by the Poet Laureate Carol Ann Duffy. http://lancashirewitches400.org/

The third diversion was Hen Harriers, this area was a few years ago the English stronghold for these wonderful birds of prey. Unfortunately their prey probably includes grouse – not a good idea on a commercial grouse shooting estate. Hen Harrier numbers have plummeted mi lord. So it was uplifting today to see a dedicated 24hr watch on a nesting site. Camouflaged tents, well done whoever you are, nobody will get near. I saw in the distance peregrines, ravens, buzzards and kestrels. A highlight was watching a kestrel stooping onto some poor vole or mouse – almost got a great photo. Memo,must get a better camera to carry around with me.

At last I arrived at the rocks – time for a sandwich. Sat under the slabs of Taurus Boulders [there is a definite Bull theme here] I notice that some of the pebbles have been snapped off – sign of more traffic or clumsy boulderers. I climbed up the steep tower of Bully Off, this was the first route Alan and I climbed way back when the game keepers were about and we were supposed to be keeping a low profile. Alan couldn’t wait. Onwards I soloed a few problems at the Pinnacle and Cave area but felt intimidated by the Clough End Boulder, looked far too serious. Found the spring for a much needed top up of water.

Made the arduous ascent up to the complex Bullock Stones and headed for the brilliant Ace of Diamonds slab – not a hold on it.

Traverse across to Stirk Slabs , a quick trip up the arete of Bullet Proof and then along to admire the architecture of Pipe Dream, no ascent today. A final flourish on the more friendly Calf Stones and then it was time for home. Sorry about the diversions, the bird watcher was taking a welcome sleep when I passed.

As I type this my finger ends are still sore and I have a feeling I will ache tomorrow.

For further info and a downloadable guide see – https://bowlandclimber.com/2014/02/24/bullstones-bouldering-guide/

ANGLEZARKE AMBLE.

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Not ‘The Anglezarke Amble’ which is a LDWA organised 24mile challenge walk/run but a pleasant amble around the reservoir with two old friends. This easy walk fitted in with the Plastic Bag Man’s recuperation from knee injury and the Professor was willing to come along for the chat, we go back a long way. The south end of the reservoir was a good meeting place. We all commented on the increased traffic encountered on the journey here, guess that is a fact of the times and that we should think more seriously about using public transport. The paths were dry after the recent fine weather and the day hot and mainly sunny – ideal for ambling.

The reservoir was constructed in the 1859’s to supply water to Liverpool and is part of a chain of reservoirs in the Rivington area. We passed the Tudor style Waterman’s Cottage built by Liverpool Corporation.

White Coppice is a small hamlet with some fine cottages, now highly prized. It is well known for it’s sloping cricket pitch in an idyllic situation. We sat eating our sandwiches on a bench watching the groundsman fine tune the batting area in readiness for this weekends fixture.

On the return we looked into Lester Mill Quarry once a fairly popular climbing venue, nobody appears to visit now. Some of the longer extreme graded climbs look distinctly uninviting, they were always a bit scary with dubious rock. [the midges were just as dangerous] That is why this quarry was always a poor second to the well used Anglezarke across the road. Managed to identify one climb we three often did as a warm up – Lester Rib VD on a small buttress at the entrance to the quarry. The quarry was originally worked for paving stones still being walked on in Manchester and Salford.

Lester Rib.

The Plastic Bag Man’s knee survived the 6 miles, we considered the extension around Rivington Reservoir but as the heat was so oppressive we opted for a cool pint in the nearby Bay Horse, an old haunt from post Anglezarke climbing evenings.

Getting better – Gouther Crag climbing.

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Gouther Crag.

June continues. The forecast was even better for Thursday, less wind and cloud with warmer temperatures. I’ve just realised how many of my posts commence with a reference to the weather, how dependent on the forecast are ‘we outdoor types’? So I couldn’t resist another day in the Lakes whilst the dry weather lasts and found a willing accomplice in Dave. The lanes leading into the secluded Swindale don’t seem to know whether they are in the Lakes or the Dales but were a delight this morning. The limited parking before Truss Gap Farm was even more limited today as major engineering work was being undertaken to improve water catchment in the valley. With help from the workers we squeezed into a space amongst the white vans. A little bridge crossed the stream to a track up the valley but as we packed a digger came along and lifted it up discarding it onto the bank as the river was being diverted. A new way will be found in the future no doubt.

The crag looked scruffy and vegetated on the hillside above and we found the indistinct track steep and strenuous, not encouraging. But all changed when we arrived at the Fang Buttress, there hidden up a gully and just coming into the sunshine was a magnificent wall and an ominous hanging slab.

Fang Buttress.

I relished the rough steep rock of Kennel Wall and Dave travelled the amazing situations on The Fang. Lakeland climbing at it’s best.

Kennel Wall up the central crack.

High on The Fang.

We had time to relax and enjoy the sunshine with views of the valley. No one else appeared. Two routes were enough, we walked down past Truss Buttress with routes for another day and then it was roof down for the drive home.

Truss Buttress.

Almost Summer – Wallowbarrow Climbing.

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This has been a favourite venue of mine for decades. Driving along the narrow lane brought back memories of days climbing here with many good friends, some sadly no longer with us, camping in the fields below the crag and pints in the Newfield Inn across the river. One is still allowed to park near the characterful farm which over the years has had a varied human and animal population. Gone are the Nepalese pheasants which used to chase you up the track. I notice there is now a camping barn available.

The morning was overcast and definitely cool, not what we had expected. The short walk up through the trees brought us under the empty West Buttress but we traversed over to the popular East Buttress, round the corner were a cheerful group experiencing multi pitch climbing for the first time.

We shivered our way up the clean Digitation VS and Trinity Slabs VD [my first lead for two years]. The sun came out later and Paradise VS was obviously more pleasurable. Sitting on the top opens up the views down the valley and behind you the Coniston and Bowfell hills which were now in brighter light. A good end to the day.

Looking up Digitation.

Looking down Trinity Slabs.

Dunnerdale.

The 4th Day of June – Robin Proctor’s Scar.

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Another good forecast, two in a row!, we were off for half a day’s climbing on Yorkshire Limestone. The afternoon turned out hot and sunny with little wind left over from the last few days, perfect for the often breezy Robin Proctor’s Scar. Situated at the southern end of Norber, famous for it’s erratics – gritstone boulders perched on the limestone.

An erratic sheep.

Despite my lack of climbing I made up the team with Dave and Rod, someone has to take the photos. A perfect Dales scenery presented itself when we parked up for the short but steep walk in.

Crummackdale.

Crummackdale to the north east looked stunning, the crags there providing some classic climbs in the HVS – E2 range. I remember well Olympus, Venus, Little Pink Clare, Feeling the Pinch and Brothers. All brilliant routes requiring delicate technique and offering rather poor protection my diary tells me. That was then but this is now – we are heading for a similar steep crag which has been transformed by a good clean up and bolting, thanks initially to Alan Steele. When we arrived there were about eight other climbers in action – I wonder how many on Crummackdale? Sign of the times.

Steep approach.

Dr. Frank’s Nightmare.

Tombstone Blues.

There was plenty of chat with old acquaintances and some geriatrics were climbing at a good standard. This is a superb venue. Sunbathing at the base of the crag was a treat after the recent cold windy weather.The view is tranquillity itself. I managed to second a few steep and technical climbs on good limestone, but felt I was so far away from leading at this modest standard which was rather depressing. Think I need to get up to the Lakes and put some easy routes under my belt.

For the record –

Gone With The Wind. F5+

Just Cruisin’ Living The Dream. F5

Dr. Frank[enstein’s] Nightmare. F5+

Tombstone Blues. F6a There is an inscription at the base of this climb recording the death of someone who fell over the crag in 1893. Spooky.

Thank God for bolts.

As we left a team were climbing the hard for the grade The Marshall Plan F6b+ – a perfect backdrop to a perfect day.

Climber on The Marshall Plan.

PS. Who was Robin Proctor? The story of Robin Proctor is not a particularly happy one. He was a farmer who lived in a Crummackdale farm with his wife and two small sons. He was a good farmer and his business was quite successful. Every night he would take his horse out of the stable and ride down the valley to the local hostelry. These nights of drinking and laughter became longer and longer and sometimes it would be well into the early hours before Robin was ready to make the long ride back up the dale to his house. He would often be so tired and drunk he would climb on his horse and fall asleep. It was fortunate for him that the horse was old and clever and knew the way back to the farmhouse with Robin Proctor asleep in the saddle. Sometimes he would fall off and wake up with a start as he hit the ground, but often he was still asleep when the horse arrived back at the stable. Being a clever horse it found a way of dropping Robin Proctor into the straw where he would sleep until morning. One night however the weather was very bad and the wind and the rain were awful. Robin’s wife told him not to go out with the weather so terrible but he would not listen and put on his greatcoat and took out the horse and rode off to the inn. He was not a bad man and before he started drinking he put his horse in the stable behind the inn for some shelter, as had some of his friends. The evening was a very merry one and after lots of beer Robin Proctor had become quite drunk. He did however remember that his horse was in the stable. He went to the stable behind the inn, brought out a horse and set off back home. Unfortunately he was so drunk that he hadn’t realised that he had taken the wrong horse! It was too late. He set out riding the horse back towards his farmhouse and quickly fell asleep. This horse had no idea where it was going but being a good horse it kept on going up the lanes and was soon in the middle of the moors in the terrible storm, walking in the dark with Robin Proctor asleep on its back. The poor horse continued until it arrived at the top of a cliff and, not knowing any better, it kept on going, plummeting over the edge and falling on to the rocks at the bottom! They were both killed instantly and ever since the cliff has been known as Robin Proctor’s Scar. It is said that on wild and windy nights the sound of horses hoofs can still be heard around the cliff. [Ingleborough Hall Outdoor Education Centre]

Heading home.

More of the same.

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The forecast was encouraging – warm, sunny with little wind. Perfect for a day’s climbing at this time of year. We could have tossed a coin or made an informed decision as to where to climb. We didn’t really succeed with either – a few clouds seemed to sway the team away from the good open higher climbing on Robin Proctor’s Scar to the low level South Giggleswick Scar. We were last here a couple of weeks ago, time for a change really. A couple of teams were already on the crag and as we arrived late the temperature was already rising. Now I can’t complain about belaying in the sun – but why here. It’s a winter crag after all and we are now in mid May. Did four decent routes, couldn’t be bothered with the last scrappy one, actually I thought the whole place was scrappy today. I found the routes hard and fingery, struggled to stay in contact and certainly couldn’t have led them in my present state of unfitness. On the positive side it was great to be out with good friends Dave and Rod as I’ve hardly climbed at all this last year – it showed! We caught up with all our news and adventures. They are already planning climbing trips abroad but after today’s effort I just can’t raise my enthusiasm at this moment in time.

For the record –

Rawhide 5+

Bonanza 5

No Wavering 6a

Bramble Jelly 6a

High on ‘No Wavering’

ROCKING ON AGAIN.

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Crowshaw Quarry.

Since my last post I’ve survived a heavy week of birthday celebrations [21 again!] and a trip along the Silk Road in Uzbekistan [more of that later] but ‘mysteriously’ gained about 7 pounds in weight. I blame the latter on the Uzbek Plov, surely not the vodka!? So with the arrival of all this beautiful warm sunny weather I had to get out and flex my muscles on the rock. Craig Y Longridge has had all the usual suspects training away – I struggled. The strong winds also had the unfortunate trick of blowing your mat away just when you were getting scared of the drop. So I found my way up to the recently developed Crowshaw Quarry for some new boulder problems on the cleaned low wall to the left. These were in perfect condition in the morning sunshine yesterday but unfortunately my soft skin, unused to climbing gritstone, soon produced a couple of finger flaps.Taping up always unravels for me and bleeding soon ensured leading to an early lunch – will be back.

Starting Tweeter and the Monkey Man.

But that was only bouldering. Because of my toe operation its over a year since I climbed with Rod, or did any routes. I could not let this warm April weather go by without getting out onto some proper climbs. Over the phone the choice was Giggleswick or Wallowbarrow. I went for the former to avoid the long drive, could have been a mistake. Today the sun was soon warming the limestone which I found to be far steeper and more polished than on my last visit. We had the whole of Giggleswick to ourselves, maybe everyone else had gone to Wallowbarrow.

Thanks to Rod’s leading I managed to second half a dozen 5’s – [memo for tonight – no food and definitely no vodka]. The day was superb and the heat built up as the afternoon progressed.

Over the garden wall.

From the anchor chains I had time to appreciate the situation in the valley and had some superb views over to Pendle and up to Buck Haw Brow. The motor bikes were screaming past.

Golf course, Giggleswick and Pendle.

Buck Haw Brow.

Could be stiff in the arms tomorrow.

A LIST.

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I used to have a list of ever-increasingly harder, but modest climbs to do. Lead E2 on my 50th, E3 on my 60th etc etc….Looking back I’ve achieved an awful lot and can’t complain – so I’m not going to. I’ve pushed my limited physique to enjoy a few good decades of climbing, first traditionally in Britain and many places abroad and more recently sports climbing in the latest hotspots. My well-documented problem with my left big toe and its associated pain have limited my climbing recently – but I still hobble up to Craigy for a short session. I was surprised therefore to find on my pinboard a list of to-dos – without a single climb. The list had been concocted last year whilst I was recovering from a toe operation and hopeful of some easy rehabilitation and was entirely composed of straightforward walking routes. There must be a link here to my recent post on what motivates me.

As you can see I’ve already ticked off some of the list at the end of last year, most satisfying was the completion of the GR7 through Spain. This route has given me many weeks of superb walking and immersion into Spanish society that I’ll never forget. But onwards I go and now I find myself starting on the GR131, a linear walk recently discovered in the Canary Islands. One has to fit the season to the walk [or vice versa] and now is the optimum walking time out in the Canary Islands.

The other listed walks can wait for suitable times and companions. Maybe I’ll find mine…….

………….watch this space for more list ticking.

BACK ON HOME GROUND (Should that be bog)

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After two weeks out in a hot and sunny Spain it came as a shock to find myself walking across a boggy Lancashire hillside.

North of Great Hill.

I had not been to Anglezarke for several years, which is where I had arranged to meet Alan. The large carpark has now a barrier on it which is closed at 5pm and that made me nervous, would we be back in time. At least it hadn’t become pay and display. We opted for roadside parking, as had many more, wondering about the local authority’s parking policies for what is a popular walking area. When I think about it – it’s probably water board land.

Golden Tower, Anglezarke.

A bright Autumn morning …….. as we wandered along by the reservoir joggers, dog walkers and mountain bikers all mingled happily. Walking under Stronsey Bank we reminisced over summer evenings there. Several of us would meet every Wednesday evening after work in one or other Lancashire quarry for a climbing session. Wilton, Anglezarke, Denham, Troy and Cadshaw were the most regular venues. They were all popular with climbers, less so nowadays I fear. The rock up in Stronsey was not the best but it had a pleasant outlook. Interestingly a new guidebook to Bouldering in Lancashire has just been published and smaller bits of rocks scattered about these hillsides are given prominence.

Stronsey Bank.

The paths follow the Goyte ‘canal’ which links the reservoirs here to those near Abbey village.

White Coppice.

Soon past the delightful White Coppice cricket pitch and on into Brinscal Woods.

Within this setting there are many derelict buildings. Their origin has always been a mystery to me but no longer, I’ve just found this wonderful little website dedicated to the history of the area. In detail and with good photos it delves into the origins of the ruins hereabouts. Fascinating, well done whoever you are.

http://www.white-coppice.co.uk

Confusion set in for the next hour as we tried to navigate eastwards across the fell, walls didn’t seem to be going the right way and the farm ruins were all in the ‘wrong’ place. Solomon’s Temple ( despite the name only some farm ruins) was our saviour, from there we picked a way across the surprisingly boggy ground.

Solomon’s Temple.

Crossing the A675 we disappeared into more waterlogged ground in the woods on the other side. A stream in a glen was a pleasant diversion before we started the climb up to Great Hill.

Looking back to Great Hill.

Again we passed several ruined farms in outstanding situations, maybe the hard living there would not have been outstanding!.

By the time we were back at the car tiredness was creeping on, we were glad there was no panic with a 5 o’clock parking deadline. The nights are drawing in and it was distinctly cool. We called in at an old haunt, The Bay Horse, for a pint and discussion as to how far we had actually walked today! Maybe 10 maybe 12 miles, but they were rough and boggy so we were satisfied. (More so now I’m able to read the history of the land)

CLEARING JUNK AND RELIVING MEMORIES.

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Stormy outside today, so decided to sort out my climbing/walking cupboard and the overflow in the spare bedroom. This proved a bigger task than I had imagined. Out went some old Karrimor rucksacks which I had cannibalised for repairs. Out went old meths stoves, old battered billy sets, lanterns and torches. Out went tattered gaiters, stop tous [remember them] and pocket hand warmers! Couldn’t part with my cotton Blacks Tinker tent, bought for about £20 in the sixties. 4ld in weight, no groundsheet but room for two, just. Found a picture on the net….

Next came the climbing gear. Out went old slings and quick-draws, probably weak with age, and frayed wired nuts and heavy carabiners. But I couldn’t send my Joe Brown helmet to the tip nor my Whillan’s harness, strap on crampons nor wooden shafted ice axe.

Not doing very well with the junk? But I’ve been privately immersed in great memories of my past climbing and camping days, old friends many now no longer with us and all that evocative cotton and leather equipment.

And as for rock-boots eat your heart out Imelda Marcos….…sadly no PAs or EBs – wore them out!

DEJA VU ON LONGRIDGE FELL.

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I didn’t make it to Pendle as planned. On Saturday morning, a good friend phoned to say he was in the area and fancied a short walk in the afternoon. We caught up over a light lunch and debated our destination. He had never been to the top of Longridge Fell, despite knowing the climbing crags dotted over the fell. So decision made. We parked near Cardwell House exactly as I had done yesterday and I took him on an extended version of the same walk. The weather today was perfect and the views much clearer, so I got some better shots of Chipping Vale, the Bowland Fells and the Three Peaks. The scenery, especially with the heather mentioned yesterday, was stunning and he seemed very impressed with our short tour of the fell and forest.

A clearer view of Chipping Vale.

The Trough hidden in the Bowland Fells.

Despite him being a philosopher, our talk drifted to past climbing days which we have shared, both being out of action at present. In general climbers have a vivid memory of routes done, probably because of the intensity of the moment, and a little reminiscing does no harm. I have been able to find an old photo of him climbing a problem on Bullstones which I’m emailing to him.

Mark at Bullstones. [2003 A. Bates]

Whilst up there I had time to show him Crowshaw Quarry where there has been some recent bouldering activity. It was good to be out enjoying the company and the sunny weather as tomorrow we are going to get the ‘back-end’ of Hurricane Bertha. Shame because one of my grandsons is in Prudential Ride London-Surrey 100mile event.

LET IT RAIN.

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To fit in with our ‘6 day a week’ workers, Sunday was set aside for a walk. It had rained heavily for two days and the forecast was not encouraging, so the weaker members of our team even thought of aborting the day. Several phone-calls later, they were brought into line and we would get out whatever. This was my adapted low-level walk to suit the conditions —

The meeting in Downham was not auspicious as dark clouds hung overhead. Only one of our party didn’t show up — we were down to four heavily waterproofed assailants.

Turning our backs on Pendle a pleasant stroll past limestone knolls led to the Ings Beck, with its old corn mill and up the valley profusely carpeted with bluebells and wild garlic — what perfumes! The rain stopped as we emerged onto a lane next to a large limekiln. In a field behind is the quarry which produced the limestone years gone by. This quarry is known to rock climbers as Witches Quarry, and most of the climbs names allude to The Pendle Witches’ tales. We couldn’t resist the short diversion into this delightful spot to recall the many sunny evenings climbing here.

Gaining the brow of the small hill just north of the quarry usually gives the most extensive views over The Three Peaks and the Craven valley, but today mist curtained most of it.

Maybe because of this I looked behind and realised the outstanding situation of Witches under brooding Pendle. (Header Photo)

Rural lanes and wet fields led through isolated farmsteads and an early lunch perched on some stones at Hollins Hall. A diverse collection of sandwiches appeared — Beetroot with feta, Tomatoes with mayonnaise, Cheese and pickle, Ham and mustard. Setting off again, talk continued on culinary matters and our own version of TripAdvisor for the local eateries. During this we managed to get lost in long grass and were faced with a fast flowing stream before some back tracking revealed a footbridge heading the correct way. Safely over the busy A59 we picked up the Ribble Way, now sadly and controversially diverted away from the river, Through farms with the odd agricultural relic — they rarely throw anything away.

It was a bit of a shock after our quiet country wanderings to arrive at the pub on the Ribble at Sawley and hordes of people out for Sunday lunch. The Cistercian Abbey is mainly ruins now but is in a dramatic situation and as we walked by we were aware of all the surrounding medieval field systems.

A cobble lane led back over the A59 and down to a beautifully situated arched bridge over Swanside Beck. I remember camping here on one of my backpacking trips through Lancashire.

The rain returned briefly as we headed back up to Downham and a visit to the open fired bar of The Assheton Arms. As we supped our pints we felt quite smug with our simple day’s walk snatched from the dire rain of the forecast.

A LANCASHIRE BACKWATER.

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My trip up to the north to walk St. Cuthbert’s Way with my old schoolmate has been cancelled unfortunately due to a family bereavement. I have had a hectic week and was glad of the opportunity to join three good friends for a walk on Sunday in the Silverdale area. My walks in this beautiful area in the past have usually involved the coast and Arnside Knott. Phil today had organised something different.

A mediocre start along a busy road, past a BT box, lead to a bridleway through old coppiced woods onto Wharton Fell. Whilst we were lost a meeting with a lady and two Corgi dogs put us right – sadly she wasn’t the queen. The top of Wharton Fell has a trig point and a beacon, used in the millennium celebrations. We passed it several times as we searched for the correct path – so technically we were never lost.

Wharton Beacon

The morning disappeared and soon we were lunching next to an old lime kiln, common in this upland limestone area. Blueberry muffins from ‘Sainsbury’s bit bin’ were particularly enjoyed. Phil’s meanderings then turned into brilliance as he took us down into the hidden world of a mossy dell, Deepdale Pond. Bluebells, Wood Anemones and Early Purple Orchids were in abundance. Magnificent!!! Go there.

More meanderings led us to the more popular Hawes water. A wooden seat overlooking the tarn proved a wonderful resting place for a late coffee. We saw a few ducks and a heron.

We were now close to Trowbarrow Quarry, the venue of many happy climbing days in the past. Despite its size and close proximity it was not easy to access. Eventually we found ourselves below the main wall, looking more unstable than ever! Teams were climbing ‘Cracked Actor’ and ‘A Touch of Class’ for our entertainment. Nobody on the classic Jean Jeanie.

Memories of climbing Major Tom after a torrential downpour and my second swinging away across the face when he lost contact. Memories of taking my ‘old’ climbing partner up Jean Jeanie on her last climb and celebrating in the pub afterwards [?The New Inn] at Yealand Conyers. Memories of climbing Sleeping Sickness with a young, light, second belaying! Brilliant.

The geologist in our party spent some, unsuccessful, time looking for a one-inch coal seam in the upended limestone strata. The track out of the quarry featured an unusual gate mimicking a climbing carabiner.

A detour through the edge of Leighton Moss nature reserve made us feel inadequate without extra large binoculars. This is an extremely popular venue compared to the footpaths we have been following. NATURE, in capital letters, is the name of the game around here.

Bugingham Palace.

A relaxing pint in the Black Bull [sorry – The George Washington – one should not be allowed to change old pub names!] completed a great day with old friends in some unusual and unfrequented scenery.

My toe coped with the 9 miles and the disappointment of the cancelled walking holiday was partially forgotten.

Back to the dark world of solicitors and undertakers tomorrow.

BULLSTONES BOULDERING GUIDE.

4 Replies

The Bullstones.

If you have no interest in climbing or bouldering, read no further.

I originally started this blog to provide information on climbing and bouldering venues in the area, and then became sidetracked with other topics.

A new BMC Lancashire Climbing guide will soon be available. Also, a Lancashire Bouldering guide will be making an appearance — http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/

Going back to the start of this century, Alan Bates and I had a great time exploring the extensive boulders above Croasdale — The Bullstones. There was no record of previous climbing here, and indeed access had been denied until the CRoW act came along in 2000. Along with other friends, who were prepared for the one-hour walk in, we documented about 300 problems. Robin Mueller’s excellent bouldering guide will have a chapter detailing a few selected areas of Bullstones, including new harder problems. I am also making available below my original 2003 guide, warts and all, for full coverage of the area, including all the easier problems.

It has only taken me 100 posts to do so!

THE BULLSTONES pdf1 —- click to view

*****

Mark finishing ‘Take the bull by the horns’

WITCHES’ QUARRY.

1 Reply

What can I say – the spell was against us today.

Convenience climbing.

Drove [!] into the quarry on a beautiful summer’s afternoon. A couple of other teams in situ. Spread out the gear and set off up a starred easy route – Cracklap [HS]. Goes up a crack, surprise, surprise, on beautiful crystals. As I was nearing the top the thunder started rumbling in the distance and as I reached the belay tree the heavens opened. Lowered off rapidly, pulled the ropes and retreated to the car.

Team on Cracklap.

Witches’ Quarry has had a chequered history. Way back you turned up, parked on the road and asked permission from Mr. Binns to climb. “No problems lads” Then suddenly there were problems – too many climbers, no respect for the hens and sheep, somebody dying.

Result — BANNED.

It took years of patient diplomacy to regain climbing access, thanks to the Clitheroe climbers. Climbers are now allowed to park in the quarry itself! Limited numbers though and no dogs. That’s what we did today- convenience climbing. Don’t abuse it and loose it.

The quarry is situated in the beautiful Ribble Valley countryside with views over to the Three Peaks.

Because the car was close by we were able to shelter from the heavy downpour and chat till the next patch of blue sky arrived. By now the rock was wet, in the upper parts, from the heavy downpour. Whilst it was still greasy we resorted to top roping, from the in situ belays, Peel Off [VS 4c] … a classy route with three distinct cruxes. Then the hot sun was out again and our spirits up – so off to lead a good steep severe – Serenity. As the lower off was clipped the sky blackened from Pendle Hill behind and rain started again, the second [me] struggled up removing the gear.

Serenity before the storm.

The spell was broken, we went home.

RYLSTONE REMINISCENSES.

3 Replies

Rylstone Cross.

I first visited this series of gritstone crags in the early seventies when I moved back up north. At the time my regular climbing partner lived in Hellifield, hence our frequent visits here as well as Eastby, Deer Gallows and Crookrise. He was running an outside catering business from his premises. Quite often on a Sunday morning, when I arrived to pick him up, he was just loading up his ovens with tens of pounds of best beef to be roasted ready for Mondays sandwiches. He seemed happy just to pop the ovens onto low and leave them for the day, confident the beef would be cooked on his return. I was far more worried throughout the day about the possible burnt offering we might return to.

In those days our gear was fairly rudimentary, nuts and slings – belay plates had just appeared. We were climbing mainly easy slabs, corners and cracks. Here on Rylstone there was an abundance of parallel sided horizontal and vertical cracks. We would spend a lot of time trying to safely seat our hexagonal chocks into these cracks for protection. The two most popular easy climbs at the time were Presidents Slab HD 60ft [1922] and Dental Slab S [1935] both given three stars for quality. I recollect we were virtually soloing them with the poor gear of the time. Towards the end of the seventies the revolutionary camming devices appeared – Friends. I rushed out to buy sizes one and a half and two and a half and then rushed up to Rylstone to try them! Fantastic. Friends worked better and faster than any other device. Not everyone embraced this revolution, some climbers denounced them as unethical, saying they made climbing too easy. I never complained. Have searched for some old climbing pictures of the era but without success.

One other recollection from those days was having a post climb pint in The Angel Inn at nearby Hetton hamlet. It was a basic, friendly, village pub. Nowadays it has become an upmarket gastro pub/restaurant, I’m not sure whether dirty, scruffy, gritstone climbers would fit in.

Fast forward to the present and I found myself walking up to Rylstone this Friday. The weather as you know has been oppressively hot but things are just cooling down. Rylstone facing west and high on the moor can be a cold windy place. Perfect for today’s conditions. I hadn’t been doing routes recently [toe pain] so the chance of some single pitch classics dragged me out with my mates. The walk in seemed longer than I remember and we were sweating when we arrived at the rocks bearing the cross. The present cross is stone and was erected in 1995. I have memories of the previous cross being made of wood, didn’t know what it commemorated but I think it kept being struck by lightning.

First route of the day was Presidents Slab which I led trying to avoid using ‘Friends’ – great easy route. Next of course was Dental Slab, for the origin of the name look up at the top toothed finish. Said to be the best Severe in Yorkshire. If only it went on a lot longer.

Start of Dental Slab

middle …

… and finish at the teeth.

A few shorter slabby routes and then we moved to the lower tier for the sustained Rylstone Wall VS 4c. Satisfying route.

Rylstone Wall start.

Rylstone Wall finish.

A chatty walk back to the car just as the after work climbers were rushing up for a few routes in the perfect evening conditions.

As they say in Yorkshire – God’s own rock.

CARDWELL QUARRY, UPDATE

5 Replies

Just to keep people up to date. There have been some recent problems here – the farmer came across several groups barbequing in the quarry. He, quite rightly, took exception to this and has asked for the BMC to advice that climbing is banned. They have updated there access site to reflect this. The farmer has erected signs prohibiting access.He is concerned about his legal liabilities. This just highlights the unthoughtful attitude of some people – it is his land after all!

I’ve been to talk to him and tried to explain the liability situation. In the mean time I would ask all climbers to avoid the quarry so we don’t aggravate the situation. Thanks for your cooperation. Try Kemple End in the meantime. http://bowlandclimber.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=13&action=edit http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17666 I’m hopeful that eventually we can achieve a compromise.